Water temp question

[onestockgtigt]

Hey guys,

So I noticed the water temp in my car is a little bit above the normal temperature. VCDS got me the following codes:

23651 - Heater Support Pump
P16C6 00 [032] - Running Dry
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

23652 - Heater support pump
P16C7 00 [040] - locked
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 9

Date: 2000.15.00
Time: 31:63:63

Here is also a pic of the temperature gauge.


Should I worry or change the heater support pump ASAP?
Can this cause or be able to cause any other problems with the car?

 

[Hollywood0220]

Are you getting heat when you turn on your heater (high)? If not, then you may well have a blocked heater core.
Since your Coolant Temp appears to be just above middle and you have these codes - it could very likely be that your water pump isn’t spinning strong enough to move the flow of fluid.

When listing problems make sure to include:
YR
Trans Type
Mileage
and
Modifications

That will provide for better analysis. But, still we would be “armchair quarterbacking”.

 

[onestockgtigt]

Thank you very much.
I do get heat when I turn it on but I notice it takes a while, probably around 3-4 minutes (as well with the heated seats). Don't know if that time is fine, I usually never use the heater.

GTI MK7
YR: 2016
Trans Type: 6 speed DSG
Mileage: 19,900
Modifications: Stage 1 APR.

 

[Hollywood0220]

Hmmm....very low mileage too.
Are you getting those Temps after a good "Play" with the power you have?
and
When you say 3-4min until you get heat, after startup? or after the car is already warm?

 

[onestockgtigt]

The temperature is always a little bit higher than the middle, and it never moves from there. Even after a good "Play" (or before) it is always above the middle.
When I start the car and the temp is going up it stops right in the middle for around 1-2 seconds and then moves to where the first pic shows, which is where it always is.

The 3-4 minutes are mostly after startup but sometimes it also happens when the car is already warm.

 

[Hollywood0220]

Ok, understood.
I would say that the Water Pump itself is not spinning as efficiently as it should.
You may want to ensure that the "Radiator Fan" is functional as well.
My second thought is that the Thermostat may be clogged a little too?

Just ensure that your Coolant Level is at or above the LOW mark when cold in the reservoir.

 

[onestockgtigt]

I check the coolant level every morning and it is always in between the low and high mark.
Would you say I should replace the water pump/ thermostat or the heater support pump as it appears it is locked?

 

[Hollywood0220]

If it is something clogged within the thermostat, I would disconnect the lower hose and let some fluid drain and reconnect, fill with fluid and burp the system. This would be just to try and loosen whatever it is that is causing the restriction.
If that doesn’t work then you can continue to look at the thermostat housing and/or water pump to see what is amiss.
I cannot say this or that at this point because I am not with the car.

 

[Hollywood0220]

Caveat:
You are
Still in Warranty - have a VW location look at it if that is the case. Will get new shiz for no cost.

 

[shovelhd]

The dash gauge has terrible accuracy. Put your VCDS in monitoring mode and watch the water temperature. If it's over 240 something's wrong.

I'd clear codes and see if they return before I replaced anything.

 

[Hollywood0220]

That’s a good call. I lost track of that because I monitor Coolant Temp on the performance display. That way I see the actual digital number vice a needle.

 

[shortyb]

From what I understand, the MK7 has 2 electronic auxiliary coolant pumps. One that flows coolant to the heater in a controlled fashion, and the other for circulating coolant on shut down. You can hear the second pump kick on through its relay if you lift the hood and listen for it when you shut the car off. The first one helps control the coolant flow to the heater based on demand, temp, etc. It sounds like the one for the heater is faulty. There was a thread where the connector was not plugged in all the way, and worked fine after it was. May want to check that. Otherwise, it may have sh*t the bed completely and need replacement. If you are still in warranty, let the dealer take care of it. If not, and you're handy, the part is about $150. Thread here.

 

[onestockgtigt]

Thank you guys.

The car is out of warranty already.
Temp in VCDS monitoring mode looks fine, around 200.

I will check all connections and burp the system to try to fix it. If it stays the same I'll just get an appointment for a diagnosis to check if anything is not working.

 

[Hollywood0220]

Thank you guys.

The car is out of warranty already.
Temp in VCDS monitoring mode looks fine, around 200.

I will check all connections and burp the system to try to fix it. If it stays the same I'll just get an appointment for a diagnosis to check if anything is not working.

Hold up M8.

Your “Needle” is just reading HIGH.
Your actual Temp is SPOT ON.

I even validated this with mine and the difference from what the needle displayed and the digital temp readout was 6*deg.

So, I would say this is all a false alarm.

 

[shortyb]

I don't know if I'd call a 9 time fault frequency a "false alarm". The cooling components on this platform are less than stellar and I'd put my money on it being another piece for the trash heap.