ShrekSquatch
Ready to race!
- Location
- Cumming, GA (yeah, I know....)
Ok, I'm really just looking for confirmation here, and making sure I'm not missing anything obvious. I have VCDS and OBD11, and am pretty good at following youtube videos, but I don't have much experience in diagnosing difficult engine-related issues.
Backstory:
2016 Golf R, stock turbo, APR stage 2 w/ APR DP, no other engine mods.
Can't pass emissions because O2 behind cat is STUCK TOO LEAN.
Voltages on both O2 sensors fluctuate as expected, but S1 and S2 are almost the same voltages at the same time. O2 sensor tests pass.
Smoke-tested exhaust and intake with no leaks.
Brought it to a shop not too far from my work in Atlanta, and after validating all my findings they wanted to flash back to stock to make sure nothing was stuck. Agreed, and nothing changed except I now get a CEL due to the too lean code. They mentioned the next step would probably be to further investigate the P00AF00 (wastegate actuator) code they found. I honestly remember seeing that one time in passing, but it was when I had a bunch of other codes after changing my battery and doing all the VCDS clear/retest stuff to try and get the car emissions ready. Didn't pay much attention to it, but now I'm thinking that's what the problem is.
So I know that with key on / engine off, the wastegate actuator voltage (charge air pressure unconditioned voltage in OBD11) should read 3.5-3.7ish for an ideal value. Mine just shows 1.56 - 1.57. Even manually pulling on the rod (I can move it, takes a decent amount of effort but some of that is the difficult location I'm sure), when I pull it out as far as I can, it's still at the same 1.56-1.57. Unless I'm thinking about it incorrectly, tells me the actuator sensor is shot?
I'm thinking the actuator needs to be replaced, and I have the mambatech MAHLE unit with adaptors in my cart.
Q1 - Anyone with more experience than I disagree with my assessment?
Q2 - I'm not entirely sure I can get at it to replace it myself, but I'd like to try. Big hands, big arms may make it impossible tho. Would certainly prefer to not have to take the turbo off, but not sure that's possible. Will of course be looking for relevant youtube info after posting this msg, but if anyone has thoughts would love to hear them.
I'll probably end up having that same shop (Eurofed Atlanta, because Autobahn Performance has gone straight to hell over the past couple of years) do the actuator swap, but if I can save some money and learn more in the process I'd be a happy squatch.
Any and all advice appreciated!
Backstory:
2016 Golf R, stock turbo, APR stage 2 w/ APR DP, no other engine mods.
Can't pass emissions because O2 behind cat is STUCK TOO LEAN.
Voltages on both O2 sensors fluctuate as expected, but S1 and S2 are almost the same voltages at the same time. O2 sensor tests pass.
Smoke-tested exhaust and intake with no leaks.
Brought it to a shop not too far from my work in Atlanta, and after validating all my findings they wanted to flash back to stock to make sure nothing was stuck. Agreed, and nothing changed except I now get a CEL due to the too lean code. They mentioned the next step would probably be to further investigate the P00AF00 (wastegate actuator) code they found. I honestly remember seeing that one time in passing, but it was when I had a bunch of other codes after changing my battery and doing all the VCDS clear/retest stuff to try and get the car emissions ready. Didn't pay much attention to it, but now I'm thinking that's what the problem is.
So I know that with key on / engine off, the wastegate actuator voltage (charge air pressure unconditioned voltage in OBD11) should read 3.5-3.7ish for an ideal value. Mine just shows 1.56 - 1.57. Even manually pulling on the rod (I can move it, takes a decent amount of effort but some of that is the difficult location I'm sure), when I pull it out as far as I can, it's still at the same 1.56-1.57. Unless I'm thinking about it incorrectly, tells me the actuator sensor is shot?
I'm thinking the actuator needs to be replaced, and I have the mambatech MAHLE unit with adaptors in my cart.
Q1 - Anyone with more experience than I disagree with my assessment?
Q2 - I'm not entirely sure I can get at it to replace it myself, but I'd like to try. Big hands, big arms may make it impossible tho. Would certainly prefer to not have to take the turbo off, but not sure that's possible. Will of course be looking for relevant youtube info after posting this msg, but if anyone has thoughts would love to hear them.
I'll probably end up having that same shop (Eurofed Atlanta, because Autobahn Performance has gone straight to hell over the past couple of years) do the actuator swap, but if I can save some money and learn more in the process I'd be a happy squatch.
Any and all advice appreciated!
