Upgrade Clutch Stage 2 for DD

[Anthony3o55]

I'm currently stock tune right now. I have a DP and am willing to get a tune very soon. I am looking to get Stage 2 tune maybe go with Unitronic or Cobb APP. Leaning towards Cobb (stratified). Anyways, I have a 2017 MK7 and this is my DD. I am doing tons of research on after market clutches but hear so many different things and having trouble to decide.

What I'm looking for is :
-Clutch that isn't so damn heavy! Close to an OEM feel would be nice
-Reliable (I wouldn't have to worry about slip or get another clutch in the cars lifetime)
-No loud ass chatter (I'm okay with a slight chatter or none)

I drive very spiritedly and will never track the car. Only street driving

I've heard about DKM, ACT, SRE, RSR, SB but can't decide. A clutch that isn't so heavy is very important to me. The stock clutch is super light to me already. As long as my knee doesn't start hurting from constant stop in go traffic.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

If you are only planning to go stage 2 max... Sachs SRE would be my recommendation. Will be chatter free Like stock also.

I’ve got a clutch master 8 puck/full face ceramic disc set up and it’s pretty unpleasant starting off the line when try trying to be the calm commuter driver, lol.

 

[Anthony3o55]

https://xlr8performance.com/i-37288...flywheelfor-mk7.html?ref=category:91;brand:40

good price?

 

[Andrewbens]

https://www.shopdap.com/ttrs-clutch-kit-mk7-gti.html

 

[shovelhd]

trying to be the calm commuter driver

what's that

 

[tpellegr]

A lot of people are running the DKM twin disk (there is a dedicated thread). From what I've read, it sounds like that and the TTRS clutch kit w existing flywheel will probably be most like stock.

 

[KyACRASH]

I would recommend RSR because that's what I have and I love it, but TTRS or the Sachs SRE would be good options as well.

All capable of holding stage 2 power (TTRS might be a stretch), and all maintain the OEM dual mass flywheel, so there will be no clutch chatter and will maintain a stock-like feel.

Only caveat would be they are not great for launching/drag racing as they will burn up eventually, but if you don't plan on doing that much you don't need to worry about it.

 

[Boje]

It's expensive and arguably overkill for stage 2, but I have the RSR Hybrid and I couldn't be happier. Slightly stiffer pedal than stock (love it and forgot how the stock one felt after about 5 minutes of driving after install – I live in NYC and daily drive it in all kinds of traffic and my left knee is wrecked from cycling and I've never had an issue at all), almost no chatter (occasionally a tiny bit at idle if you're listening for it, nothing a passenger would ever notice, nor would it be audible in a video).

I was dreading upgrading the clutch because I had no complaints about the stock one and because of everything I had read about the downsides of heavier-duty clutches, but this one has made the car considerably more fun to drive because of the feeling of it clamping hard when you let go of the clutch pedal and hit the gas after a shift, being able to floor it in 5th at 3k rpm without worrying at all, and overall the car actually feels smoother than it did before (fluidampr and replacing my 034 mounts with BFI helped with that too, I think).

 

[mk7_bk]

I went with southbend stg 3 daily, feel like like almost OEM, little heavier, some chatter on cold starts but once warm its ok.

 

[Anthony3o55]

I dont really do drag races like that at all. Maybe once in a while I’ll do a 20 or 40 roll but no hard start from 0.

I also wanted to mention. Is it really necessary to change the flywheel when changing the clutch? If its best to change the flywheel then I will

 

[Hollywood0220]

I dont really do drag races like that at all. Maybe once in a while I’ll do a 20 or 40 roll but no hard start from 0.

I also wanted to mention. Is it really necessary to change the flywheel when changing the clutch? If its best to change the flywheel then I will

If you wish to get the Max Life out of your new clutch you would.
When the trans is opened up, it is far cheaper and efficient to replace than having the need to open it up a third time.

 

[mk7_bk]

yeah the guys who did my setup (NGP) did the RMS, whole clutch setup, and a stainless clutch line. Wasn't "cheap" but its better to get it done right vs piecewise it imo. now my clutch should be good for the rest of the life of the car, even if i add a BT (which i plan to next year maybe lol)

 

[CarlosCanizares]

I went with southbend stg 3 daily, feel like like almost OEM, little heavier, some chatter on cold starts but once warm its ok.

That's what coming for my car.

Question: How's the friction point compared to stock?

I have a clutch stop and curious if I can keep it or remove some of the washers?

 

[mk7_bk]

That's what coming for my car.

Question: How's the friction point compared to stock?

I have a clutch stop and curious if I can keep it or remove some of the washers?

im going to assume you mean 'friction point' = on clutch release when it starts to bite.


For me, I was using the BMS clutch stop before on OEM clutch, I was advised to remove for break in period which I did.
After break in period I added it back in and it was almost like a perfect fit.

I lowkey thought (if that point is adjustable) they adjusted it to match perfect with the BMS clutch stop cuz it was on point, now bms stop has been in for like 10k and its all good


Edit, 2 big take aways for me.

1. IT was HARD AF to push the first like 2 days. I mean like HARD im a ex linebacker and have muscle and it took a whole lotta might to keep that clutch pedal down. After the first few days it was totally fine and only like 10-20% more push than oem and i really like it. But i was kinda worried not gonna lie
2. There is a bit of chatter, I switched to motol gear 300 trans fluid, this really really helps (highly advise)

 

[tpellegr]

x2

I would advise removing the clutch stop until the break-in period is over and then reinstalling (if needed). Not worth the risk.