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subwoofer upgrade Fender Audio

GLoBaLReBeL

Ready to race!
Location
South Bend, IN
1. For the fender sub wiring, which of the two wires with the yellow line is the ground? (I know that the brown/Yellow and White/Yellow is one set, and then the Brown and White is the other, but I don't know which is which...

2. Is the Yellow striped pair, the Left or the right speaker for the LCi2?

3. You said you found some write-up on setting the amplifier and the LCi2 correctly. Any chance you could share that page? I am not the best at all this :)
 

WV Mk7 R

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
West Virginia
1. For the fender sub wiring, which of the two wires with the yellow line is the ground? (I know that the brown/Yellow and White/Yellow is one set, and then the Brown and White is the other, but I don't know which is which...

2. Is the Yellow striped pair, the Left or the right speaker for the LCi2?

3. You said you found some write-up on setting the amplifier and the LCi2 correctly. Any chance you could share that page? I am not the best at all this :)

The connector should actually have it marked on the side where the wire goes into the connector. It should be (+, +, -, -) with both +'s and -'s sharing a terminal. usually solid color signifies a positive and a stripped signifies a negative so my guess would be:
1.) Solid Brown - Positive (Right)
2.) Solid Yellow - Positive (Left)
3.) Stripped Brown - Negative (Right)
4.) Stripped Yellow - Negative (Left)
 

SouthbayMK7

Ready to race!
Location
Pomona CA
Chid: I understand what you were trying to do by connecting directly to the battery terminal, but it sounds like anyone who gets their power supply this way will need to destroy the nut on the battery clamp (and then they will need to buy a complete new clamp from VW).

An almost-as-good alternative seems to be use one of the nuts on the SA fuse holder in my pic above. Any nut will do because the size of the copper bus in the SA fuse holder is quite substantial. The good thing about this alternative as a point of electrical coupling is that the cable that is connected to 508 is very short and it is very fat in cross section and it is connected directly to the battery clamp (the nut of which has to be destroyed if the alternative isn't used). What this all means is that the bus on the SA fuse holder is "electrically close" to the battery terminal - hence it is a good alternative!

Just putting it out there for others to consider!


DV52: Was this what you meant so u dont have to mess with the battery terminal? just hook it onto the 3rd cable from the left (the only one with a bolt instead of a nut). Wanted to ask someone who knows this before attempting it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6f...w?pref=2&pli=1

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6f...w?pref=2&pli=1

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6f...w?pref=2&pli=1
 

Ace92028

Go Kart Newbie
Location
San Diego
My stock fender system is plenty loud, at level 10 it's too loud and I can't hear the music so it's fine for me
 

Pinkesh

New member
Location
Toronto
Ok I almost have this all completed and have been trying to figure out how to finish this off.

1) Where has everyone hooked up their main power cable? To the battery post itself or one of the spots in the fuse box? I know people have mentioned an issue with taking off the nut on the battery post so I'm not sure how to get around that issue seems like it won't go back on.

2)I am having a hard time finding a place to ground the amp and am afraid of drilling a need grounding bolt incase i hate a wire or a line or something. I was hoping to find a ground bolt or something and have looked under the flooring carpet in trunk etc and can't find anything. Someone mentioned they used the ground for the cigarette/accessory plug which is located on the right side wall in the trunk however I can't figure out where that ground is. Please let me know where I can ground or drill a new bolt. Basic instructions say ground into chassis or subframe but does that mean I have to use a specific part of the trunk or is any "metal" on the body considered part of the chassis?

Please help me!

Thanks
 
so i need some help figuring out the gains. i never used a line out converter before. im going to be using a steve meade distortion detector, i guess i have to find a way to tape the damn door speakers so that i can get my initial readings figured before moving to the sub amp, but how do you figure the gain on the lc2i? then i do it again on the amp itself? inquiring minds would like to know :)
 

kansas83

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Wichita, KS
so i need some help figuring out the gains. i never used a line out converter before. im going to be using a steve meade distortion detector, i guess i have to find a way to tape the damn door speakers so that i can get my initial readings figured before moving to the sub amp, but how do you figure the gain on the lc2i? then i do it again on the amp itself? inquiring minds would like to know :)



Rick - assuming you're still using factory power for the door speakers, follow gain setting instructions that came with lci2. If you don't have those, do something like this:

Make sure your head unit setting are the way you like them in terms of treble, mid and base. Turn the head unit sub to 0. Turn the sub amp gain and lci gain all the way down. Play a song you know well at a decently loud volume and have a friend in the back start slowly turning up the gain on lci2. There may be some lights on it that start flashing once you reach the point of distortion. If so, reach that point and then turn it back just a little bit. If the sub isn't loud enough at that point, have the friend start slowly turning up the sub amp gain until you reach the desired output.

Simply put you want to drive each step in the chain as hard as possible without hitting distortion or exceeding a volume that sounds good. Don't turn up the next step in the chain until you've maxed out the previous one without distortion. Your "chain" in this case is head unit, then lci, then sub amp.
 
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mensaman

Ready to race!
Location
Missouri
This thread was awesome. Got my 2 12" sundowns in this weekend. Love my GTI even more now.
 

BretTX

New member
Location
Houston, TX
I did pretty much the same thing as this settup except I don't have an LC2i. Does the LC2I make that much of a difference in terms of adding the lower frequencies (40~60hz) that the Fender system seems to omit? It drives me nuts listening to music that hits hard and then when it goes a little lower, it just disappears. I know my sub and amp can handle it.
 

MiamiBourne

Go Kart Champion
Location
South Florida
Car(s)
2016 6MT Golf R Oryx
I did pretty much the same thing as this settup except I don't have an LC2i. Does the LC2I make that much of a difference in terms of adding the lower frequencies (40~60hz) that the Fender system seems to omit? It drives me nuts listening to music that hits hard and then when it goes a little lower, it just disappears. I know my sub and amp can handle it.

From what I understand the factory system has some sort of sub roll off (to protect the factory speakers from blowing) I think it's called? The LC2i is supposed to restore the bass from that roll off...I'm not sure how you would measure this but from my research that's a big selling point of the LC2i.
 
loving it
 

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