Sachs 4 puck- thoughts?

[TheeAdam]

Is the clutch quiet during highway driving around the city? Shifting between 4-6 while cruising and moving through traffic. How bad is crawling and inching in traffic? I'm glad there are a few tri-state guys in this thread.

2-6 is dead silent. The only time you get feedback noise wise or vibration wise is when you have to start from a stand still and have to engage first/reverse or you shift to early/late you’ll get a slight thud but that’s the same as not rev matching your downshift type of thud.
Crawling is not bad as long as you try to keep momentum. I changed my driving style a bit to try to stay in 1st in highway traffic and just coast or go neutral and coast. But if you absolutely need to, you can slip clutch only to crawl forward a bit or almost bite and blip to crawl up a little bit more; not bad at all.

Yeah, too bad I never see anyone [emoji17]


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[TheProfessional]

Can you describe the noise? I think I know what you’re talking about and I attribute it to the louder grind like noise I described in my op.

I know the sound you mention when the clutch is engaging in first, it's not that (cause I get that too). This is when the clutch pedal is depressed, it sounds like a hydraulic press actuation noise (which is why I suspect MC as well), but it is intermittent.

Is the clutch quiet during highway driving around the city? Shifting between 4-6 while cruising and moving through traffic. How bad is crawling and inching in traffic? I'm glad there are a few tri-state guys in this thread.

It is quiet except for the last bit of engagement when moving the car from a stop. This magnitude of that noise depends on how you engage the clutch. Every other scenario is quiet.

 

[ZuMBLe]

2-6 is dead silent. The only time you get feedback noise wise or vibration wise is when you have to start from a stand still and have to engage first/reverse or you shift to early/late you’ll get a slight thud but that’s the same as not rev matching your downshift type of thud.
Crawling is not bad as long as you try to keep momentum. I changed my driving style a bit to try to stay in 1st in highway traffic and just coast or go neutral and coast. But if you absolutely need to, you can slip clutch only to crawl forward a bit or almost bite and blip to crawl up a little bit more; not bad at all.

Yeah, too bad I never see anyone [emoji17]


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That sounds totally manageable. Are hill starts scarier because the margin of error is much less. With the hill assist, I've never had a problem on a hill.

 

[Golf7RR]

so guys 2 quick questions:
1. why would anyone want to go SB stage III endurance when this DMF option that holds the same clamping power exists? (only reason i see so far is that they do not know about it)

2. Why do you think that Sachs has a SMF option with this 4puck design? why go with it if it can only hold the same clamping power? It would have dreaded chatter. but i guess the rev-matching would be easier. but not for stop-go traffic. i would think. SMF doesn't have much weight to it.

 

[TheProfessional]

so guys 2 quick questions:
1. why would anyone want to go SB stage III endurance when this DMF option that holds the same clamping power exists? (only reason i see so far is that they do not know about it)

2. Why do you think that Sachs has a SMF option with this 4puck design? why go with it if it can only hold the same clamping power? It would have dreaded chatter. but i guess the rev-matching would be easier. but not for stop-go traffic. i would think. SMF doesn't have much weight to it.

1. No clue.
2. Less rotational mass on the SMF option so for pure road racing, rally, autocross, etc. applications, it is the better option.

 

[ZuMBLe]

1. No clue.
2. Less rotational mass on the SMF option so for pure road racing, rally, autocross, etc. applications, it is the better option.

Also cheaper to replace if the DMF needs to be replaced.

 

[TheeAdam]

That sounds totally manageable. Are hill starts scarier because the margin of error is much less. With the hill assist, I've never had a problem on a hill.

Exactly, you just have that much less room for error and have to stay on it a little longer as you normally would starting uphill.


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[TheeAdam]

so guys 2 quick questions:
1. why would anyone want to go SB stage III endurance when this DMF option that holds the same clamping power exists? (only reason i see so far is that they do not know about it)

2. Why do you think that Sachs has a SMF option with this 4puck design? why go with it if it can only hold the same clamping power? It would have dreaded chatter. but i guess the rev-matching would be easier. but not for stop-go traffic. i would think. SMF doesn't have much weight to it.

The SB kit is $1.6k meanwhile this clutch is half that price and can hold much more. I think that if you’re not planning to be close to the limit of the clutch and daily drive it, it may be a better option for some but personally that doesn’t cut it for me.

I think it’s just another option to be honest. The chatter with DMF is almost non existent and only there if you are next to something like a wall. I don’t see why anyone would want to go SMF tbh. Maybe somebody more experienced can chime in.




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[Golf7RR]

All valid points. and i agree with all of them except the point where the clutch holds alot more. It doesn't. 4puck is about the same as the SB -3 endurance.. 810NM is 597ft/lbs and SB is at 580ft/lbs and both i think are conservatively rated..the shop says SB all the way. but i think alot of shops don't have experience with this 4puck and Sachs.

thanks guys.

 

[TheeAdam]

All valid points. and i agree with all of them except the point where the clutch holds alot more. It doesn't. 4puck is about the same as the SB -3 endurance.. 810NM is 597ft/lbs and SB is at 580ft/lbs and both i think are conservatively rated..the shop says SB all the way. but i think alot of shops don't have experience with this 4puck and Sachs.

thanks guys.

Hmm I see what you’re getting at. I think it’ll come down to track use and which one lasts longer with consecutive 6k rpm launches etc.


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[Golf7RR]

Hmm I see what you’re getting at. I think it’ll come down to track use and which one lasts longer with consecutive 6k rpm launches etc.


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yeah, if at track use and launching repeatedly. i think the kevlar-lining in the SB is NOT your friend. Sachs would be better. Kevlar will be ruined from the heat. at least what i've heard. not talking about the SB(daily) here. which is organic. and rated for less ft/lbs..

 

[radoroc]

The SB kit is $1.6k meanwhile this clutch is half that price and can hold much more. I think that if you’re not planning to be close to the limit of the clutch and daily drive it, it may be a better option for some but personally that doesn’t cut it for me.

I think it’s just another option to be honest. The chatter with DMF is almost non existent and only there if you are next to something like a wall. I don’t see why anyone would want to go SMF tbh. Maybe somebody more experienced can chime in.




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Where can u get the sachs kit for half the price? Both of them were similarily priced when I looked. Maybe you mean the kit without flywheel. With the smf it's very expensive, plus you have to buy a tob.

 

[TheeAdam]

Where can u get the sachs kit for half the price? Both of them were similarily priced when I looked. Maybe you mean the kit without flywheel. With the smf it's very expensive, plus you have to buy a tob.

Yes I meant the clutch and pressure plate only
+150 ish for TOB


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[ZuMBLe]

Yes I meant the clutch and pressure plate only
+150 ish for TOB


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The OE TOB is like 40 bucks, the Sachs version is 60, and the metal one is about 150. I was told there is no real difference so I split the difference and bought the Sachs 60 dollar one.

 

[nonegiven]

The OE TOB is like 40 bucks, the Sachs version is 60, and the metal one is about 150. I was told there is no real difference so I split the difference and bought the Sachs 60 dollar one.

The all metal TOB was just under $100 shipped from urotuning. Picked one up last week.