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PowerZone: Rear WaveTrac install into Differential *In Progress*

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON
You had your thrust bearing replaced? How did the shop do that? I would figure the crank shaft would have to come out for that.
I'm not sure, it was done by Foreign Auto. They only told me they had a method to do it, but I'm sure you can call and ask to avoid me missing something. They said they get a lot of calls from around North America on it. IMO they are legit, with many many exotics being serviced by them regularly along with the BMW's Audi's Mercedes etc

https://foreignautomotive.ca/

A lot of folks have had it done by them from what I read in the local Facebook / forums. A few go back to get things measured to make sure it hasn't budged and so far the fix has been good. One guy had his crank go before the fix, hence why they are putting the time to find the solution into it. The only thing is they don't have a fix-it-all solution since there are measurements required to be sent to the machine shop that need to be perfect. That's all I can remember from asking them about it.
 

Raguvian

Autocross Champion
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
2019 GSW 4MO 6MT
I'm not sure, it was done by Foreign Auto. They only told me they had a method to do it, but I'm sure you can call and ask to avoid me missing something. They said they get a lot of calls from around North America on it. IMO they are legit, with many many exotics being serviced by them regularly along with the BMW's Audi's Mercedes etc

https://foreignautomotive.ca/

A lot of folks have had it done by them from what I read in the local Facebook / forums. A few go back to get things measured to make sure it hasn't budged and so far the fix has been good. One guy had his crank go before the fix, hence why they are putting the time to find the solution into it. The only thing is they don't have a fix-it-all solution since there are measurements required to be sent to the machine shop that need to be perfect. That's all I can remember from asking them about it.

Do they replace it with a stronger/different one? Do you mind me asking how much that runs?
 

RudyH

Go Kart Champion
Location
Kitchener, ON

j255c

Drag Racing Champion
Location
New York
Car(s)
2018 Golf R Manual
Yep. I have been trying to get this done. Waiting for the border to open up. They put a bottom thrust support in. Pretty much eliminates crank walk issues from a stronger clutch.
 

Raguvian

Autocross Champion
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
2019 GSW 4MO 6MT
I wonder if they can do it for a 1.8, and if they could ship just the lower bearing and crank bearing end cap. I don’t see why the transmission would have to come out though.
 

j255c

Drag Racing Champion
Location
New York
Car(s)
2018 Golf R Manual
I wonder if they can do it for a 1.8, and if they could ship just the lower bearing and crank bearing end cap. I don’t see why the transmission would have to come out though.
They will not export the process or let the work be done from another shop. I tried.
 

j255c

Drag Racing Champion
Location
New York
Car(s)
2018 Golf R Manual
That’s unfortunate. I’m not going to Canada to get it done.
Stay stock stay happy. Or stage 1 low torque like me -ha.
 

ineverlearn

New member
Location
Greece
Car(s)
6R GTI stage 4
Hi all!

New to the forum - I found a lot of wisdom here so thought I'd post and ask my reliability questions! So here we go :)

I am investigating buying a haldex car as a base for customization and a good compromise on practicality vs driving fun. My main aim is to build a front/rear lsd + haldex controller setup. It will be a gen 5 haldex like anything EA888 gen3 Golf R 7/7.5 platform or RS3. I have a powerful polo now and the wavetrac makes a huge difference. No experience with haldex though so I am wondering:

1.If I track the car once in a while and the rest spirited driving will the half shafts, driveshaft and other mechanical links of the golf platform be able to cope with the increased stresses that the two wavetracs will apply on the driveline/transmission? Or will I need the RS3 setup which must be beefier, to cope with say a high power stage 3 EA888 Gen3 engine (~500/550 hp ~600 Nm). Do you have experience with any updates/mods needed to support the diff once installed? i.e. different rear/front/half shafts/modifications/haldex pump etc. Is it ok to just buy the car, pop the lsd's in then use it 50/50 with a haldex controller and go carve the track? What has your experience been with durability over the years? Any special service advice?

2. Is it ok to actually run the haldex controller at 50/50 and launch the car once in a while or will it break something after the second launch. I was thinking VW would have had it on all the time if it was ok but they don't - is it just for fuel economy? Also, how do the dual diff setup handle at stock haldex software vs haldex controlled 50/50 or with a custom map. I was thinking to have it on boost mode customization so that the components are not active all the time but will be when I need them.

3. I know for the front the DSG needs to come off and the rear, the diff housing. I have done an lsd job but it was not part of a dsg gearbox and the ring gear was bolted not riveted so I am not sure if I should attempt the deriveting coiling and installation myself with no access to a workshop just my home garage. Is it something that is doable with minimal tooling or is the level of accuracy required high enough to require specialist tooling? Any advice on DIY? Anything I need to be careful about? torque specs? tooling?

4. I saw both wavetrac and haldex-lsd have an option for rear lsd, I know the latter started the party and wavetrac capitalised on that market need. But how are the two options different and what would you recommend?

5. Bonus questions: Does it actually improve laptimes? Well it must but by how much? How about 0-60 times? I could not seem to find any feedback not even for the front only setup let alone for dual + controller. And a very important question - will the tail slide out if provoked on less ideal road conditions i.e. mountain road slippery tight hairpins? or will it be predominantly understeering? What is the most ideal setting for the controller?

I know it is a LOT of questions but feel free to answer whatever you have experience on.

Very much appreciated - let's hear it from the owners!
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Hi all!

New to the forum - I found a lot of wisdom here so thought I'd post and ask my reliability questions! So here we go :)

I am investigating buying a haldex car as a base for customization and a good compromise on practicality vs driving fun. My main aim is to build a front/rear lsd + haldex controller setup. It will be a gen 5 haldex like anything EA888 gen3 Golf R 7/7.5 platform or RS3. I have a powerful polo now and the wavetrac makes a huge difference. No experience with haldex though so I am wondering:

1.If I track the car once in a while and the rest spirited driving will the half shafts, driveshaft and other mechanical links of the golf platform be able to cope with the increased stresses that the two wavetracs will apply on the driveline/transmission? Or will I need the RS3 setup which must be beefier, to cope with say a high power stage 3 EA888 Gen3 engine (~500/550 hp ~600 Nm). Do you have experience with any updates/mods needed to support the diff once installed? i.e. different rear/front/half shafts/modifications/haldex pump etc. Is it ok to just buy the car, pop the lsd's in then use it 50/50 with a haldex controller and go carve the track? What has your experience been with durability over the years? Any special service advice?

2. Is it ok to actually run the haldex controller at 50/50 and launch the car once in a while or will it break something after the second launch. I was thinking VW would have had it on all the time if it was ok but they don't - is it just for fuel economy? Also, how do the dual diff setup handle at stock haldex software vs haldex controlled 50/50 or with a custom map. I was thinking to have it on boost mode customization so that the components are not active all the time but will be when I need them.

3. I know for the front the DSG needs to come off and the rear, the diff housing. I have done an lsd job but it was not part of a dsg gearbox and the ring gear was bolted not riveted so I am not sure if I should attempt the deriveting coiling and installation myself with no access to a workshop just my home garage. Is it something that is doable with minimal tooling or is the level of accuracy required high enough to require specialist tooling? Any advice on DIY? Anything I need to be careful about? torque specs? tooling?

4. I saw both wavetrac and haldex-lsd have an option for rear lsd, I know the latter started the party and wavetrac capitalised on that market need. But how are the two options different and what would you recommend?

5. Bonus questions: Does it actually improve laptimes? Well it must but by how much? How about 0-60 times? I could not seem to find any feedback not even for the front only setup let alone for dual + controller. And a very important question - will the tail slide out if provoked on less ideal road conditions i.e. mountain road slippery tight hairpins? or will it be predominantly understeering? What is the most ideal setting for the controller?
The main stress is added heat within the diff/trans. I'd consider moving up to Motul fluid (the only fluid that Wavetrac will suggest besides OE) and cutting your fluid change interval.

The haldex controller won't run at a full 50:50 unless you also change the relief spring or the clutches. If you really want to tune the setup, I'd go with the standalone syvecs controller with the spring. You can save a bit ordering the controller from JDY and the spring from tunezilla. If you're using it for track usage, I think the first thing to fail will be the pump itself, especially if tuned for more duty cycle. The only change I'd recommend is disabling XDS.

It really depends on your trans. My DQ381 was riveted. I had a shop do it so I could ensure the backlash, etc. was set properly.

They are the same essentially. I would buy the wavetrac version at this point just to make rebuilds simpler. Bit annoying sending things over to europe now that you don't need to have a mk5 unit custom-machined.

5. is very subjective. If you're not slipping on your tire/suspension setup it won't change much.
 

Adam071406

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Texas
Stage2+MK7R/stage3clutch with a front wavetrac LSD. 700 miles after installation of lsd the vehicle started making a lot of noise when traveling a low rate of speed and also feels like it gets stuck when attempting to move after being parked like something is binding up in the differential. I also heard a loud pop when I attempted to move forward out of a parking spot after it felt like the car was stuck and wouldn’t move forward with giving it a ton of gas like 4K rpm. Is this normal?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Stage2+MK7R/stage3clutch with a front wavetrac LSD. 700 miles after installation of lsd the vehicle started making a lot of noise when traveling a low rate of speed and also feels like it gets stuck when attempting to move after being parked like something is binding up in the differential. I also heard a loud pop when I attempted to move forward out of a parking spot after it felt like the car was stuck and wouldn’t move forward with giving it a ton of gas like 4K rpm. Is this normal?
probably not, but contact wavetrac. their support is great, even helped me out as a second owner of a used diff.
 
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