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MK7 Battery Charging and Maintenance

RennWerks

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Hither n Yon
OK, let me acknowledge upfront that I know from nothing about Golf GTI battery maintenance and re-charging. (Hondas, yes; VW Golfs, no.) I weaned myself off air- and water-cooled V-dubs in the late '80s, but after reading Georg Kacher's raving about the M7.5 in the March issue of CAR, I decided it was time to rejoin the fold. (Georg is a very clever writer!) So, while I'm waiting for a (USA model) 2017 manual-transmission GTI Sport to arrive in a week or so, I've been trying to bring myself up to speed on the sorts of things an old dog should learn about maintaining one.

I should explain my intended use of this car. I've always been a DIYer. My GTI will be a weekender -- a car I'll drive 30 miles or so nonstop on Sunday mornings eight or nine months a year, depending on the weather. The car will sit idle during the winter. Obviously, then, I need to buy a battery maintainer, and Ctek seems to be the obvious choice.

My first question concerns the model Ctek I should choose. I'm open to advice and recommendations. In this regard, I searched the board to see if anyone had discussed a permanent or semi-permanent installation of the Ctek hookup devices I read about elsewhere, but found none. So, I'm guessing the practice of most Golf owners is more ad hoc -- i.e., those who use battery maintainers hook them up as needed rather than as a matter of routine. OK, I can go with that, but I'd appreciate a Dick-and-Jane walk through to include advice as to whether the car's hood (bonnet) can be left open or, in the case of a V-dub, must it be closed to avoid draining the battery. (In this regard, I understand the the car's doors must be locked to minimize the drag on the battery.)

Next scenario: I have several decades of practice hooking up battery chargers to Hondas. (For clarity, I'm talking about a battery charger, not a "maintainer" like a Ctek.) No special routine has been required. I've simply been clamping on a multi-decade old Schauer 6-amp battery charger to installed batteries and turning it on for 15-30 minutes weekly for years, no problem. However, from what I've read here and elsewhere, this practice is not only not recommended, I gather doing so may fry a Golf's electronics. Here again, advice and recommendations are solicited as to whether this habit -- i.e., hooking up a low-amp battery charger to an installed VW Golf battery -- is tolerable or discouraged.

Break, break. From what I've read, I'm guessing it would also be a good idea to buy a code-reader/code-clearer of some sort. In this regard, it's my understanding that the car's electronics will allow a DIYer to clear the routine maintenance codes (oil-change interval code, for example) without having to visit a VW garage. I'm fine with that. Am I, a DIYer, likely to need a code-reader/clearer for any other routine use?

All informed opinions concerning these and other matters that come to mind would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Right I have some practical experience with this...;)

I have a CTEK charger/maintainer which does AGM & 12v supply (needed for long VCDS sessions).

+ from charger to + in battery, - from charger to bayonet fitting on bulkhead behind battery (DO NOT use battery -).

Make sure the clamps are fitted as "low" as possible otherwise the bonnet/hood will hit them. Then run cables over the area between the grill/headlight, & fully close bonnet.

Close all doors etc. as these show up in MFD in dash & yes the car will time out (shut of electrics) after 30mins, but it is better to NOT have any warnings etc.

I charge mine every so often & leave overnight or until it is showing 7 out of 8 LEDs on my charger. CTEK you can leave for months on end no problems!

Been doing this for over 2yrs on my Mk7 no problems & had different CTEK chargers before never any problems.

See my guides for fitting a bigger battery if required.

:cool:
 
My dealer uses C TEK battery conditioners on their showroom cars. AFAIK they just sit there all the time. Also, I have one on my Westfield, which has been great all winter. The car is always ready to start and the battery has been kept in top condition.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Why do not use the battery negative terminal?

This is a worldwide forum & quite a few of us get stop/start as standard & have a BCM wire/connector on the battery -. You cannot connect here, (VW state)even for jump starting otherwise you risk the control modules!

If you do not have this BCM wire then there is NO harm in connecting as I have stated.

See my how to guide on retro fitting bigger batteries for the pic of the BCM wire & bayonet location.
 

RennWerks

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Hither n Yon
This is an addendum of sorts for those who stumble upon this thread.

I chose to follow "golfdave's" excellent advice, and purchased a CTEK MUS 4.3 battery charger two weeks ago. It works great. It's everything golfdave described and the manufacturer advertises. I did run into one problem a couple of days ago, however, when I decided to install the semi-permanent "eyelet" connector that comes with the battery charger.

The CTEK battery charger comes with two connectors, one with alligator clips that clamp on the battery terminals, and a second one with eyelets that can be installed semi-permanently on the battery terminals. (For those who aren't already familiar with the CTEK charger and its accessories, I refer you to golfdave's earlier thread and the detailed, annotated photograph he added to that thread. http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7926. )

Attaching the eyelet lead to the negative battery post (the "bayonet") fixture is easy enough. Attaching the eyelet lead to the positive post isn't. As I discovered when I tried to remove the nut on the positive battery clamp (adjacent to the "X" in the linked photograph), the nut is a "force fit" on the end of the terminal bolt and is not intended for removal.

VW clearly anticipates the nut will simply be loosened, and doing so is sufficient to lift the terminal clamp from the terminal. Unfortunately, the semi-permanent eyelet connector cannot be installed without removing that nut. Unhappily, removing that nut ruins it; it absolutely, positively, categorically cannot be reinstalled on the bolt. I discovered this the hard way when the nut could not be moved further, on or off, and thus the battery clamp could not be tightened on the positive post. Eventually I had to cut the bolt off and replace the nut and bolt. Fortunately, I was able to remove the original nut and bolt without ruining the battery clamp. That would have been very expensive to remedy.

Moral of the story: This is what comes of trying to guild the lily.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Previous VAG cars I have owned have had additional posts on the battery clamps for additional items & I have used the fixed eyelet CTEK connectors.

I spent about 1/2hr looking at the MK7 & though sod that as I don't like attaching eyelets etc. permanently to the "clamp" bolts

This is why I show the removable alligator clips in the pictures as this is what I use on my car all the time!
 

Srsanford

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
Golf R
Thanks, Golf Dave!

Maybe convert the Ctek eyelets to forked terminations...

VW do, in fact, put a VERY tiny sticker near the battery warning of “precautions” necessary to avoid damage? It needs LARGE notice to stop connecting to the -ve terminal rather than the chassis peg!

2016 Golf R battery would not start after a months layoff due to lockdown : it started, just, would not restart on petrol forecourt five miles away... Tried to jump start with leads on + and -: failed. After 20 minutes battery recovery,- did start...
Memo to self: lock doors to avoid draining battery!
Back home-as usual, charged with + and - terminals...

Update: charged gently, twice (with one cable off) Having bought new Bosch battery, now old battery starts vehicle! Had to turn steering full l and r, after 10 minutes, all error messages disappeared...
Didnt try the 15 min ign on trick.
To “register new battery with system” need good OBD reader-yes? Or a dealer or good independent?

Electric handbrake now grabs, but does not hold- very dangerous!
Ah well-off to the main stealer, or good independent...

Update: my trusty local independent cleared 41 errors with his OBD2 analyser- All sorted , £35
The car was, of course, just out of warranty...
His tip was to keep the engine ticking over while the battery is being changed-“you dont lose any software settings”
 
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golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Another sticker??...thats more costs!!
 

DV52

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Australia
This is an addendum of sorts for those who stumble upon this thread.

I chose to follow "golfdave's" excellent advice, and purchased a CTEK MUS 4.3 battery charger two weeks ago. It works great. It's everything golfdave described and the manufacturer advertises. I did run into one problem a couple of days ago, however, when I decided to install the semi-permanent "eyelet" connector that comes with the battery charger.

The CTEK battery charger comes with two connectors, one with alligator clips that clamp on the battery terminals, and a second one with eyelets that can be installed semi-permanently on the battery terminals. (For those who aren't already familiar with the CTEK charger and its accessories, I refer you to golfdave's earlier thread and the detailed, annotated photograph he added to that thread. http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7926. )

Attaching the eyelet lead to the negative battery post (the "bayonet") fixture is easy enough. Attaching the eyelet lead to the positive post isn't. As I discovered when I tried to remove the nut on the positive battery clamp (adjacent to the "X" in the linked photograph), the nut is a "force fit" on the end of the terminal bolt and is not intended for removal.

VW clearly anticipates the nut will simply be loosened, and doing so is sufficient to lift the terminal clamp from the terminal. Unfortunately, the semi-permanent eyelet connector cannot be installed without removing that nut. Unhappily, removing that nut ruins it; it absolutely, positively, categorically cannot be reinstalled on the bolt. I discovered this the hard way when the nut could not be moved further, on or off, and thus the battery clamp could not be tightened on the positive post. Eventually I had to cut the bolt off and replace the nut and bolt. Fortunately, I was able to remove the original nut and bolt without ruining the battery clamp. That would have been very expensive to remedy.

Moral of the story: This is what comes of trying to guild the lily.
RennWerks: Hi

I've read your excellent addendum with interest and I'm more than a tad confused!!!

Because I live on a continent way down south, I'm not that familiar with UK models - but Australia still being a UK colony (yes, hard to believe, but your Queen is still our head-of-state) our cars have many (all?) the features of your vehicles. So I assume that your car has Start Stop (SS) fitted and as a result, it has the Battery Monitor module (J327) connected to the negative battery lead like this:



If I'm correct and if I'm reading your addendum correctly - by placing the eyelet lead for the negative charger connection directly to the negative battery post - aren't you by-passing the Battery Monitor module? And if this is indeed the case - won't the amp-hours injected into the battery by the charger therefore NOT be recognized in the calculations for the battery condition by the CAN Gateway module?

Again, this question goes to the matter about how cars that are fitted with J327 should be jump-started and charged - as the manual explains, these cars should ALWAYS connect the negative charger/jump-start-battery lead to the car's frame (not the negative battery post) because J327 needs to measure and record the injection amperes for the battery health calculation!! It's like this for cars with J327:


I apologize if I've mis-read your addendum

Don
 
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