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LIGHTWEIGHT Wheels

Rotaryknight

Go Kart Champion
Location
So Cal
Just wish the Titan 7 wheels were still 57.1 bore. Someone on here mentioned they went to 66.6 for more universal fit.

That is correct. I checked with one of the owners of Titan7 this morning.

I personally don’t care. It makes production easier and faster. VolkRacing has been making their wheels like that for years. No one is gonna argue that Rays don’t perform....
 

flipflp

Autocross Newbie
Location
PNW
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
That is correct. I checked with one of the owners of Titan7 this morning.

I personally don’t care. It makes production easier and faster. VolkRacing has been making their wheels like that for years. No one is gonna argue that Rays don’t perform....

It's not about performance, but I think there is a handful of people that have just had uncommonly bad experiences with hub rings. I'm not one of them, and I've used all types of plastic and aluminum rings over the years, plus hub centric spacers and adapters. If the parts are made right, and you chose a ring material based on your climate, they are fine.

99% of the aftermarket wheels in the world use rings, since making a wheel so application specific (like an OEM replica wheel) is just not as common and doesn't make sense to most manufacturers regardless of their pedigree.
 

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
I've run hub rings (plastic and metal) with enkei, work, volk, and advan. Titan should be no different. Get decent quality rings which are cheap these days, and torque to spec, star pattern. Enjoy 0 vibrations.
 

theBrandler

Ready to race!
Location
New England
Now I really want 17s. Hit something, couldn't see what, either pothole or construction divot. Either way it gave me a flat. Oh and my jack came pre broken with this car. It had obviously never been used as the rod in the hole and froze in this position. I broke the crank trying to lower the car. Had to borrow a jack from a passerby to swap to a spare. [emoji849]


Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
Neuspeed RSE05's would meet those requirements. I run them as my winter setup and they have been great.

Thanks I had forgotten about those. The big turn off for me was the spokes didn't extend to the edge of the wheel, making a smaller than OE wheel look even smaller.
 

chillax

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Wi
Car(s)
18 GTI SE plaid
Best 17 inch wheel/tire size for Golf? According to discount tire the factory tire size is 225/45-R17 but for wheels there are a lot of different options for width and offset. I was thinking of going with Konig Rennforms which are 17X8 45. Is the factory tire size best to stick with?
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
Best 17 inch wheel/tire size for Golf? According to discount tire the factory tire size is 225/45-R17 but for wheels there are a lot of different options for width and offset. I was thinking of going with Konig Rennforms which are 17X8 45. Is the factory tire size best to stick with?

Really depends on goals and tire. I run a 245/40 on my 17x8, and it's a very square sidewall, but that's a 200tw tire with very stiff sidewalls. If you don't want your speedo to be off, then run stock size, or you can change via vcds or obd11 to adjust for new diameter. If you're just running all seasons or something with softer sidewalls, like mpss, definitely stick to 235 or 225 on that rim. You can always use tire size to change your gear ratio overall... Shorter tire means tighter gearing and more torque, but lower top speed.
 

demi9od

Drag Race Newbie
Location
NC
Best 17 inch wheel/tire size for Golf? According to discount tire the factory tire size is 225/45-R17 but for wheels there are a lot of different options for width and offset. I was thinking of going with Konig Rennforms which are 17X8 45. Is the factory tire size best to stick with?

235/45-R17 works well on an 8" wide wheel, depending on the tire of course. PS4S in that size measure 7.8" treadwidth which is right where you want it, very slightly narrower than the wheel.
 

VL3X

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
Now I really want 17s. Hit something, couldn't see what, either pothole or construction divot. Either way it gave me a flat. Oh and my jack came pre broken with this car. It had obviously never been used as the rod in the hole and froze in this position. I broke the crank trying to lower the car. Had to borrow a jack from a passerby to swap to a spare. [emoji849]


Man, that's crazy! I actually used my oem jack over the weekend and it easily bent in the same exact spot where yours broke.
 

theBrandler

Ready to race!
Location
New England
Man, that's crazy! I actually used my oem jack over the weekend and it easily bent in the same exact spot where yours broke.


Given this experience, I really want to know, am I foolish to want lightweight wheels on the road? My stock Austin wheels were fine from this, only the tire was a casualty. I would hate to get light weight wheels and have had to shell out for a tire AND a wheel.


Enkei and Konig claim their rotary forged or flow formed (all the same thing) wheels are stronger than purely cast wheels - but if they are lightweight, are they really stronger than cast wheel? Or simply stronger per pound, but still weaker in absolute terms?


Maybe it's on a per wheel basis? I've heard the ultra lites, like RPF1 and Hypergrams bend easily when encountering road obstacles.
 

swcrow

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia
Car(s)
7.5 GTI
It's all subjective and depends on where you live Pot holes can shred a wheel in one instance, and do no damage at another time..... It's all angle and speed. If you're that concerned, you need to drop to 17" and get a taller sidewall.
 

theBrandler

Ready to race!
Location
New England
It's all subjective and depends on where you live Pot holes can shred a wheel in one instance, and do no damage at another time..... It's all angle and speed. If you're that concerned, you need to drop to 17" and get a taller sidewall.


That was my plan anyway. I live in New England, roads are terrible in some places, and there is always construction. The construction zones are the worst and that's what got my tire this time.


I get what you are saying, but in general, outside of shelling out thousands for forged wheels, are the flow formed wheels rims strong?
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
It's all subjective and depends on where you live Pot holes can shred a wheel in one instance, and do no damage at another time..... It's all angle and speed. If you're that concerned, you need to drop to 17" and get a taller sidewall.

Agreed.

It's all about how the impact is absorbed. Cast has more mass, and can absorb more impact forces before shearing. Just think about it this way; you've probably seen a lot of bent cast wheels and a lot of cracked forged/semi-forged wheels. Each metal forming process has pros and cons...
 

flipflp

Autocross Newbie
Location
PNW
Car(s)
'16 Golf R DSG
Given this experience, I really want to know, am I foolish to want lightweight wheels on the road? My stock Austin wheels were fine from this, only the tire was a casualty. I would hate to get light weight wheels and have had to shell out for a tire AND a wheel.


Enkei and Konig claim their rotary forged or flow formed (all the same thing) wheels are stronger than purely cast wheels - but if they are lightweight, are they really stronger than cast wheel? Or simply stronger per pound, but still weaker in absolute terms?


Maybe it's on a per wheel basis? I've heard the ultra lites, like RPF1 and Hypergrams bend easily when encountering road obstacles.

You're over thinking this.

Virtually all major brand name wheel companies build wheels that are structurally durable, full cast or flow formed, because they know the wheels are going to see regular street duty. Many have lifetime structural warranties as well. Lightweight track wheels might not see the same types of stress as wheels that are only used on the street, but are still put to the test in corners where the wheels actually flex and fail if they aren't strong enough. I don't know that I'd extend all of these statements to some extremely cheap knock off or fly by night brands, but of all of the brands you're looking at, they are all well made wheels.

Flow Forming technology does just what is advertised. The face of the wheel is cast using normal gravity/low pressure casting methods, and then the rim of the wheel is pulled from that casting versus being cast as one completed wheel. When the rim is pulled back high pressure is applied and this has benefits in strength because of the forming (better metal structure) and reducing weight because the stronger rim can be thinner.

Here's a great short video from Konig about the process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WtM12r969I

Buy the wheels you like, be happy.
 

theBrandler

Ready to race!
Location
New England
Agreed.

It's all about how the impact is absorbed. Cast has more mass, and can absorb more impact forces before shearing. Just think about it this way; you've probably seen a lot of bent cast wheels and a lot of cracked forged/semi-forged wheels. Each metal forming process has pros and cons...


Well no, I've only heard of the forged one's bending. At least in my circle of family and friends, everyone running stock cast wheels on normal cars, I've never heard of a rim bending. I've only seen the forged one's bend on my friends Mercedes - so personal experience doesn't always line up with overall reality. But I would never shell out for forged for how easily his seam to bend.
 
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