Front tweeter wiring

[vertigo12369]

Hi guys,

Getting ready to install a ms-8 and I'm trying to figure out how the front tweeters are wired. I have 8 wires coming out of the discover unit, but there are 8 speakers (meaning I need 16 wires). Anyone have a diagram showing how the front speakers are wired (non fender system)?

 

[nikbrewer]

your tweeters and midrange run of 1 set wires. They run in series and the tweeter will have a cap on it to block out the bass. The head unit it only putting out 4 channels ( FR, FL, RR, RL) the mid range / tweeter separation happens with a crossover.

Have you done any car audio wiring before?

 

[vertigo12369]

So the tweeter has four wires coming into it (4 cavity connector)? Two into the tweeter and two passed through to the midrange? Typically I see 4 wires at the midrange, two full signal and two hpf'd to the tweeter. However since the tweeter is not in the door on the car it has to connect from a different harness. Trying to figure out how/where to splice in.

 

[nikbrewer]

That sounds like what the wiring is doing. Are you splicing to get signal, or to send power to the speakers?

Are you wanting to power the tweeters separate than the mids using the MS-8?

 

[vertigo12369]

Yep, I want to run full active using the factory wiring. Want to splice in inside the car.

 

[monkeysrus]

Did this ever get worked out? I want to swap out the front speakers and run a proper crossover. Does it split post the door speaker? Want to know the easiest way to hook up!

 

[DV52]

^^^^ not sure if this helps!
Don

 

[monkeysrus]

Thanks Don, all good with that after my helix install! I just wanted to know if they are wired in series or not when i swap out the front splits???

Might be easiest if i get a new connector and wire them up from scratch.

 

[hal]

It's fairly easy to run new wires to the tweeters. I went full-active and ran new wires to the tweeters but ended up splicing into the original wires to go to the mid-range because there was no easy way to run wires through the door loom.

 

[nkresho]

So, if I wanted to add components, I get how the tweeter wires can be run from the crossover. How about intercepting the wiring to the midrange? If I wanted to find these wires inside the car, and put the crossover inline, how easy is this? I need a signal from the amp (radio) to feed the crossover, then I want to separate the signal between the tweeter and the door midrange.

It would be much easier if either the tweeter or the mid had 4 leads coming in, then i'd know where it branches. There has to be a Y in there somewhere, anybody know where it is?

 

[pheavey70]

bump

 

[bullyx2]

It's fairly easy to run new wires to the tweeters. I went full-active and ran new wires to the tweeters but ended up splicing into the original wires to go to the mid-range because there was no easy way to run wires through the door loom.

I'm running my front stage active. I did the exact same thing and was pretty easy. The active part really doesn't matter here though as wiring would be the same after a passive crossover.

Tapped front speaker outputs from discover unit to run to inputs of my DSP.

New speaker wires directly from amp to aftermarket tweeters in OEM locations

New speaker wires from amp to OEM wires for door speakers in the kick panels. I tapped these as close to where they run to the door as possible. then connected a foot or so of new wire to them inside the door, with proper terminals for my speakers.

My thought is that short length of OEM wire will have no adverse effects on sounds and I personally didn't want to attempt to modify or drill through the OEM connectors. Everything is there so it can be put back to stock easily. The speaker wires inside the kick panels were the same color as in the door so easy to find once you pull the OEM speakers. (I used a DMM to test continuity to confirm before cutting)

 

[nkresho]

I'm in the middle of my component install.

On the drivers side, the positive and negative are the same color for both the mid and the tweeter. Red with yellow stripe and brown with yellow stripe.

So far, I removed the hood release lever and the kick panel. Then, intercepted the speaker wire heading into the door. One side to the input of the crossover and the other to the crossover's mid output. Then ran a new wire from the crossover to the tweeter.

Planning to do the same for the passenger side.

Car's in pieces. took a break for the night.

One odd thing, the factory speakers each 4 ohm. That leads me to believe the system is seeing either 2 or 8 ohms at each speaker.

I'll check it all out tomorrow and measure the passenger side. Seems odd to me.

Still no idea where the speaker wire goes from the glovebox, then splits. Can't tell if it is series, parallel, or something else. If there's a 4 ohm load, gotta be the something else option.

Going to throw some sound deadening on the door and might run new wiring to both crossovers if there's something funky going on with the factory wiring.

 

[MiamiBourne]

I'm in the middle of my component install.

On the drivers side, the positive and negative are the same color for both the mid and the tweeter. Red with yellow stripe and brown with yellow stripe.

So far, I removed the hood release lever and the kick panel. Then, intercepted the speaker wire heading into the door. One side to the input of the crossover and the other to the crossover's mid output. Then ran a new wire from the crossover to the tweeter.

Planning to do the same for the passenger side.

Car's in pieces. took a break for the night.

One odd thing, the factory speakers each 4 ohm. That leads me to believe the system is seeing either 2 or 8 ohms at each speaker.

I'll check it all out tomorrow and measure the passenger side. Seems odd to me.

Still no idea where the speaker wire goes from the glovebox, then splits. Can't tell if it is series, parallel, or something else. If there's a 4 ohm load, gotta be the something else option.

Going to throw some sound deadening on the door and might run new wiring to both crossovers if there's something funky going on with the factory wiring.

Take pics!

 

[nkresho]

Didn't this time around. Sorry.

There's not a lot to it though. Wrestling out the A pillars. The sneaky little clip on the hood release lever. Drilling out the rivets (saw a thread on here where a guy pried the speaker off, because he didn't know what the rivets were) That's about it. No single part is all that crazy. I guess the a pillars are the hardest part, trying to not jack up the dash and pillar.

I ended up using Focal 165A1 components.

I used 1/2" deep spacers on the mids. No clearance issues.

Tweeters hot glued like most others.

Snuck the crossovers in the dash on both sides.


Still suspecting some funny-business with the splitting of the factory tweeter and midrange wiring. Both sides meter at 4 ohms, stock. But, the stock tweeter and mid each meter at 4 ohms. How is this possible?