Dkm stage 3 clutch

[Hunter's_MK7]

I finally got my replacement unit a month ago after a bad FTE. Put about 800 miles on it so far and I'm extremely happy with it. Definitely take your time on the pressure plate, I think I spent a little over 2 hours on it with a second set of hands passing me stuff. After the third time pulling the transmission, you really get the hang of everything else.

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[russiankid]

So I looked up the Rowe on ECS and it's both, a GL-4/5 just like the Motul 300.

It will be fine with that fluid, but I will say after dumping Motul and going Ravenol GL-4, the difference was night and day.

 

[eickhoffj11]

Successful DKM stage 3 clutch installed over the past two weekend.
This clutch feels pretty amazing.. the pedal does not feel much heavier to me, just the way it feels is more smooth and crisp. The DKM customer service was good enough to inform me that there was a more reliable throw out bearing available for me when I called to ask some other question. They sent it to me within a few days.

I reccomend this clutch to everyone for a reliable OEM feel, ready to take anything clutch.

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[Escape Hatch]

It will be fine with that fluid, but I will say after dumping Motul and going Ravenol GL-4, the difference was night and day.

How long did you run Motul before changing over?

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[JeffGTI1]

Successful DKM stage 3 clutch installed over the past two weekend.
This clutch feels pretty amazing.. the pedal does not feel much heavier to me, just the way it feels is more smooth and crisp. The DKM customer service was good enough to inform me that there was a more reliable throw out bearing available for me when I called to ask some other question. They sent it to me within a few days.

I reccomend this clutch to everyone for a reliable OEM feel, ready to take anything clutch.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Is the engagement low to the floor?

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[Escape Hatch]

Is the engagement low to the floor?

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Not really, feels pretty good actually, especially after close to 2500 on it

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[Twist1]

Is the engagement low to the floor?

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I just hit 500 miles in mine with the OEM LUK tob and engagement is almost exactly like stock. Stock pressure stock placement.

Just little more crunchiness to the bite due to the two disks.

What TOB did dkm say was the "more reliable" one?

 

[railroader]

I just hit 500 miles in mine with the OEM LUK tob and engagement is almost exactly like stock. Stock pressure stock placement.



Just little more crunchiness to the bite due to the two disks.



What TOB did dkm say was the "more reliable" one?

You have the oem vw tob, dkm sends out the luk tob now, the oem vw tob and the luk numbers cross reference each other just the oem vw one cost more

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[Twist1]

You have the oem vw tob, dkm sends out the luk tob now, the oem vw tob and the luk numbers cross reference each other just the oem vw one cost more

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Oops, yes OEM VW version of LUK.


I'm not sure if the FTE they were using was a different dimension, I know the mk7 OEM TOB has that spacer part but the length on the LUK/OEM # seems to be spot on/perfect for the twin disk with the shorter one.


You would think with it being a twin disk the longer one would be better for disengagement but TOB science is black magic wizardry

 

[TheGreekFreak]

Your small bolts said 48 inch lbs right?



Tell him it is crucial to use an Inch pound torque wrench and to do each of the 26 PP bolts half turn at a time, star pattern. He will have to mark them otherwise its impossible.


Then once they are all torqued down slowly, he will have to back them out one at a time and blue loctite them, torque them back.


Yes, it will take about 3 extra hours to do but is crucial for longevity imho. It is a twin disc. So taking his time making sure it is compressed evenly is important.




Ask him to please NOT use an impact on anything inside the transmission, including flywheel bolts.



For the RMS (i'm assuming you are installing iabed) make sure the seal is press fit into the housing BEFORE you put on crank.



Also, tell him to bench bleed not only the TOB but also the clutch line as well before re installation.


Other than that should be easy peasy. I freaking love mine it has gotten better every time I drive it (280 miles)

Thanks for the input!

My manual said 48 inch pounds as well.

Despite it being the proper way, unfortunately I doubt he'll take that much extra time on the PP bolts. Labor is being chalked up as warranty work so its tough convincing him to spend 3 extra hours on it lol hopefully he does a good enough job to have it compressed evenly.

They actually had to process the warranty claim when I took it in last week so didn't actually get it done yet. Hopefully it will be installed by the end of this week. I will leave him some bullet point instructions highlighting some of the crucial steps you mentioned and pray they follow them.....its in God's hands now lol

 

[russiankid]

How long did you run Motul before changing over?

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Little over a year, don't recall exact mileage but probably about 12k give or take.

 

[Twist1]

Thanks for the input!

My manual said 48 inch pounds as well.

Despite it being the proper way, unfortunately I doubt he'll take that much extra time on the PP bolts. Labor is being chalked up as warranty work so its tough convincing him to spend 3 extra hours on it lol hopefully he does a good enough job to have it compressed evenly.

They actually had to process the warranty claim when I took it in last week so didn't actually get it done yet. Hopefully it will be installed by the end of this week. I will leave him some bullet point instructions highlighting some of the crucial steps you mentioned and pray they follow them.....its in God's hands now lol

Hehe it sure is. Honestly wouldn't be surprised if they used an impact on em to reduce time but I would highlight NO AIR TOOLS IN TRANS like six times lol. You may want to run a cheap m5x.8 tap over to them as well as idk about anyone else but my PP threads came cross threaded from factory and the screws are an insane design

 

[Twist1]

Ugh. Bad news.

Clutch was breaking in fine and was getting stupid smooth until a few days ago it developed a knocking sound when clutch pedal was PRESSED. At first I just thought it was chatter but now it's gotten so bad that it sounds like a rattle snake shaking it's tail when I shift or put the pedal in while rpms are up. Damn. Thought I was home free. The clutch still works fine but the sound is getting louder and louder.

Any ideas? I'll try to upload a video soon of the noise but it's looking like the trans will have to be dropped AGAIN. So sick of this MT, about to trade for dsg.

I used the OEM rev M which is the same as the LUK TOB but it seems that maybe they are not identical. I'll probably drop this weekend and replace with a luk just be sure and hope the noise goes away. I drive 60 miles on highway and it's been days since it started so I think if it was a loose bolt it would've come out by now.

 

[Twist1]

https://youtu.be/DZVc-ef2Rlo

Here's a vid . You can hear it them when I shift it sounds like a rattle snake really loud

 

[abbas16]

Successful DKM stage 3 clutch installed over the past two weekend.
This clutch feels pretty amazing.. the pedal does not feel much heavier to me, just the way it feels is more smooth and crisp. The DKM customer service was good enough to inform me that there was a more reliable throw out bearing available for me when I called to ask some other question. They sent it to me within a few days.

I reccomend this clutch to everyone for a reliable OEM feel, ready to take anything clutch.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Is there a number or email, or even a website for dkm?
I might be brain farting, but i looked online and i can't seem to find their website or contact info

I have my twin disk ready to install, and i'd rather call/email them before i install to make sure i got the right TOB.

cheers in advance mate