Decision time...JB4 vs. APR..

[Crackness1]

...I understand what you're saying, just giving you a bit of the business to entertain myself.

Apologies!

None needed, just tired of hearing people throwing around morality when it seems like the only really moral people just get shit on. You know, like when people interrupt, and talk shit, and point at other people telling them how rude and immoral THEY are.

It's been a long week and like my current favorite song starts off, "Y'all niggas got me hot..."

But back on topic... There are no riskless engine modifications, just some with less than others and it's up to the OP to decide.

Tune (whichever route you decide), lighter wheels, and better tires is a great start to making your fun machine funner.

 

[NY01]

You guys are all awesome! The Mercedes board would have gotten me like 3 or 4 replies. Now I am as torn as ever, but it was fun getting there. I'll update you with what I get get.

 

[frankiedubbz]

2016 VW GTI DSG JB4 Map6 E30 mix and CTS catless downpipe. Car 5310 in the left lane and my friend's UM Stage 1 Audi S3 car 4567 in right lane

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[PowerDemon]

Get the JB4. It’s like driving a new car. Plus you can take it off in 20 mins to take it in for a warranty claim. I’ve had it on map 2 for about 3 weeks and all I can say is, 11/10 would recommend. Power delivery is much smoother, boost comes on quicker, and it maintains power for much longer in the rev range. I love mine and cannot wait to work with George for making a tune optimized for my car. Hope this helps!

 

[Mels15GTI]

GolfWang, relax. My time is valuable and I want to make a good educated choice. I don't want to waste my time on a JB4 if it's a marginal difference, but if the JB4 hangs very close to an APR then that would be a solid choice in my book. If it's a quick walk away, then not.

I went to a dyno day, my jb4 map2 w/downpipe did 3more whp than an apr stage1 with boost pipes. The apr car did 40 more lbs of torque at the wheels though. The apr car did not have a downpipe.

 

[GTI Jake]

Not apples to apples but some friends and I went to Zmax this summer.

APR stage 2 FBO I trapped 111 and Jb4 with a downpipe/midpipe otherwise stock went 105.

Heat was probably a big factor for the Jb4 car though since he had a stock intercooler and mine logged 4* over ambient even after 6 consecutive passes (made 15 that night, 95* out). Both cars 6MT on street tires

For another form of comparison I’ve raced a 2018 392 Scat Challenger a few times in Mexico and we’re dead even or I’ll put a half length on him (both MT)

You’ll enjoy either, and nothing wrong with starting off Jb4 then doing a real tune later. Honestly if I could start over without wasting a ton of money I’d have a “pro” tune of some kind. That just wasn’t a thing three years ago when I bought and tuned the car (65,000+ miles btw, almost all of it APR tuned)

 

[Hammerli]

For another form of comparison I’ve raced a 2018 392 Scat Challenger a few times in Mexico and we’re dead even or I’ll put a half length on him

I was interested to read your comment on this coming from an 18 Charger Scat with minimal mods and summer rubber. No disrespect to you but that guy can’t drive or is on all seasons, that’s a mid 12 second car from a dig, faster with a good driver, and ideally what I’m looking to replicate(performance of my Charger), but I think I need to be more realistic and accept that I’m not going to get that without a turbo swap I don’t want to do.

If I go APR, would they charge much to “turn it off” for winter? I’d be willing to pay a little to do that for winter, would rather my new Hakkapeliittas don’t have to fight with the torque all winter.

 

[GTI Jake]

I was interested to read your comment on this coming from an 18 Charger Scat with minimal mods and summer rubber. No disrespect to you but that guy can’t drive or is on all seasons, that’s a mid 12 second car from a dig, faster with a good driver, and ideally what I’m looking to replicate(performance of my Charger), but I think I need to be more realistic and accept that I’m not going to get that without a turbo swap I don’t want to do.

If I go APR, would they charge much to “turn it off” for winter? I’d be willing to pay a little to do that for winter, would rather my new Hakkapeliittas don’t have to fight with the torque all winter.

We didn’t go from a dig. At the track I ran several 392 and hellcats and got beat by all of them. From a roll even without brake boosting or no lift shifting it’s a very fair fight.

I also have ran (on video) a procharged 5.7 Challenger 508whp and we were dead even. He had literally just had the car dyno tuned that week and was shocked to see the gti holding his bumper (also, I had a passenger).

With slicks or even DR my car would easily go deep into the 12s. 5/32 Indy 500 tires spinning 2.3x 60ft is a deal breaker at the track.

Also keep in mind the is20 world record is deep into low 11s.


As for winter time tune changes yes they’ll charge you. That’s completely pointless IMO though since drivability is night and day better tuned and there’s no “fighting” the torque. You can drive it just as easily and tame as a 90hp Corolla, just don’t stand on the skinny pedal.

I grew up in NE OH, and not that I needed them, but I put a set of dedicated snow tires on steel wheels my last winter there. It was like being on rails. Insanely good traction even on ice and no issues with 1.5-2’ of snow commuting to Cleveland

 

[Hammerli]

We didn’t go from a dig. At the track I ran several 392 and hellcats and got beat by all of them. From a roll even without brake boosting or no lift shifting it’s a very fair fight.

Thanks for clarifying, makes more sense. I wasn't comparing platforms, I was comparing your posted time slip to what even stock 392s run, plenty of Hellcat's in low 10s and 9s, so as I said, not comparing what's possible. As I mentioned in my first post in this thread, my ideal would really be equal 70-130 to my Charger, that's what's useful when on 94 Autobahn over by Detroit where even average traffic flow is 90 at many times. My Challenger Hellcat walked on my Charger Scat in that respect, so I just want to get close to Charger without going crazy or doing exactly what I was trying to avoid, going deep into mods.

The research continues lol

 

[NY01]

Oh boy....the decision is getting tougher and tougher......

 

[mctriple]

Do you want the possibility of keeping your warranty for power train issues? JB4. Do you not? I'd get a flash tune if not.

 

[GTI Jake]

Thanks for clarifying, makes more sense. I wasn't comparing platforms, I was comparing your posted time slip to what even stock 392s run, plenty of Hellcat's in low 10s and 9s, so as I said, not comparing what's possible. As I mentioned in my first post in this thread, my ideal would really be equal 70-130 to my Charger, that's what's useful when on 94 Autobahn over by Detroit where even average traffic flow is 90 at many times. My Challenger Hellcat walked on my Charger Scat in that respect, so I just want to get close to Charger without going crazy or doing exactly what I was trying to avoid, going deep into mods.

The research continues lol

That’s easy enough, PM me if you’d like this is what I do lol (actually taking a bone stock car up to stage 2 FBO tomorrow afternoon)

 

[Scuba_mk7.5]

I went to a dyno day, my jb4 map2 w/downpipe did 3more whp than an apr stage1 with boost pipes. The apr car did 40 more lbs of torque at the wheels though. The apr car did not have a downpipe.

Care to share numbers?

 

[CFGTI]

I'm at 500 miles on my 2018 GTI DSG and was curious what quarter mile MPH I could get with either of these and why you believe I should do one vs. other? I know their is lots to search on this forum, but never really found true back to back or race comparisons. I know I would likely lose warranty with APR and would favor JB4 if the speed at quarter is same/close and driveability. I appreciate the feedback.

Same car mods in sig. I ran 13.5 @ 108.5 in humid 60 degree weather. .