Clunking noise after rear sway bar install

[Will_]

I initially installed my 034 RSB with the ECS end links. The bolts were properly tightened (I thought) with the suspension loaded. Within a couple of thousand miles, the endlink connection at the RSB had become loose and regularly klunked on both sides. And I had pre-cleaned the endlink threaded studs and used blue Locktite to keep the nut tight too. I then replaced the ECS endlink with the Moog unit and it has stayed tight ever since and no klunks.
I recommend you check this connection before you go to a mechanic. You don't need a torque wrench- you can't get a socket & wrench on that bolt anyways. A crows-foot wrench- maybe. But I wouldn't trust the torque reading.
If the connection is loose, (and I'm certain it is,) tighten it as much as you can. Find out what the thread pitch is on the endlink threaded stud, then make your way down to the closest Fastenal and get a couple of jamb nuts that have the same thread as the stud. Install the jamb nuts tight to the nuts you have already installed. They won't loosen again.

Just to be sure you’re talking about the out nut here yea? I don’t see any room for play but honestly I’m not sure what else it could be so I’ll take a look.

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[theDoktor]

Yup- that's the one.
Is the nut closest to the rubber boot a loose nut or is it a fixed part of the threaded stud? If it's a loose nut, you should be able to torque the two nuts against the bar end together and not have to mess with what appears to be a screw slot on the end of the threaded stud. That slot will strip out in a hurry! Still might be a good idea to add a jamb nut to the outside nut after everything is tight. Any movement in this connection will cause a clunk.

The ECS adjustable links have 14mm flats where you have the nut against the boot. The flats are a machined part of the threaded stud and are quite narrow.

 

[Will_]

Yup- that's the one.
Is the nut closest to the rubber boot a loose nut or is it a fixed part of the threaded stud? If it's a loose nut, you should be able to torque the two nuts against the bar end together and not have to mess with what appears to be a screw slot on the end of the threaded stud. That slot will strip out in a hurry! Still might be a good idea to add a jamb nut to the outside nut after everything is tight. Any movement in this connection will cause a clunk.

The ECS adjustable links have 14mm flats where you have the nut against the boot. The flats are a machined part of the threaded stud and are quite narrow.

The nut is fixed to the threaded stud, so to tighten I had to use two wrenches like so: (note, I noticed this was backwards right after taking this photo). I got it pretty damn tight but I imagine I could probably go tighter

I noticed there’s pretty much no clunking/noise at high speed, buts tons at low speed and especially over uneven bumps. Also very loud when I go off a bump where the rear wheels drop quickly...

 

[theDoktor]

Yup- that's the same clunking experience I had.

At least you can use a standard wrench with that fitting, although an adjustable wrench is never the best wrench choice, IMHO and experience. They tend to slip and ruin the flats.
If you don't mind, keep us posted on how that endlink wears after you get the clunking issue resolved. I really like the zerk fitting; the rest of it looks a lot like an adjustable version of the (non-adjustable) Moog endlink I'm using at the moment. Never run across that brand, but like how it looks.

 

[Will_]

Yup- that's the same clunking experience I had.

At least you can use a standard wrench with that fitting, although an adjustable wrench is never the best wrench choice, IMHO and experience. They tend to slip and ruin the flats.
If you don't mind, keep us posted on how that endlink wears after you get the clunking issue resolved. I really like the zerk fitting; the rest of it looks a lot like an adjustable version of the (non-adjustable) Moog endlink I'm using at the moment. Never run across that brand, but like how it looks.

That is a Moog Endlink. These guys.

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[theDoktor]

Sorry- thought you had the adjustable Whiteline endlink.
The Moog endlink is excellent. Get properly-fitted wrenches and tighten the snot out of it. With hand-held wrenches, you won't over-torque the fitting unless you are a pro football player or equivalent.It never hurts to pre-clean the threads (I typically use lacquer thinner) and then BLUE Locktite on the threads before installing the nut.

 

[pjam73]

I’m the person with the Whiteline adjustable end links - the OP.

I took the car to another mechanic a couple of days ago, and - fingers crossed - it’s fixed.

The problem was that the alloy lateral locks that came with the bar were not adjusted correctly. They were set when not under load, so when it was under load they’d rotated forward and the top was just touching the sub frame in front. As the suspension was pushed upwards over a large bump they knocked against it. They have now been rotated back so as to not hit. The mechanic tested under all levels of travel of the arm.

FWIW, the quality of the bar isn’t great - the left side flat part that joins the end link is definitely kicked out a bit ( during manufacturing) so there’s slightly less stiffness on the left because the end link is further from vertical than the right. But I’m not sure I can be bothered to pay for replacement even if I could get Whiteline to replace it...

Loving the effect of the bar though...you don’t really notice understeer until it’s gone!

 

[mk7_bk]

i have this setup, my neuspeed 27mm rsb and moog endlink clunks only left side here and there, i had a mechanic tighten the nut last week while we did the trans fluid, when i got home it clunked. at this point, im done with it, if it clunks it clunks lol

 

[barf]

I’m the person with the Whiteline adjustable end links - the OP.

I took the car to another mechanic a couple of days ago, and - fingers crossed - it’s fixed.

The problem was that the alloy lateral locks that came with the bar were not adjusted correctly. They were set when not under load, so when it was under load they’d rotated forward and the top was just touching the sub frame in front. As the suspension was pushed upwards over a large bump they knocked against it. They have now been rotated back so as to not hit. The mechanic tested under all levels of travel of the arm.

FWIW, the quality of the bar isn’t great - the left side flat part that joins the end link is definitely kicked out a bit ( during manufacturing) so there’s slightly less stiffness on the left because the end link is further from vertical than the right. But I’m not sure I can be bothered to pay for replacement even if I could get Whiteline to replace it...

Loving the effect of the bar though...you don’t really notice understeer until it’s gone!

Good you got it squared away.
Is this actually 24mm in diameter? The Whiteline site shows 22mm.
I'm in the market for a rear sway bar and trying to determine how solid and hollow compare. I'm guessing a 22mm solid is equivalent to a 24mm hollow.

 

[pjam73]

Is this actually 24mm in diameter? The Whiteline site shows 22mm.
I'm in the market for a rear sway bar and trying to determine how solid and hollow compare. I'm guessing a 22mm solid is equivalent to a 24mm hollow.

I did not measure it, but everything I’ve read says 22mm, despite the odd model number.

 

[mj8807]

I had a clunking issue, I found that one of my end links was not fully tightened. I haven't had any clunking noises since, now I have a squeaking noise. I think thats just the nature of poly bushings. The squeaking is so bad that I'm tempted to go back to oem bar and bushings. I have in fact greased the fittings and still have squeaks. Does anyone know if I can buy oem rubber bushings in a larger size? I haven't seen any on the market.

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[Will_]

Sorry OP for hijacking your thread.

I took of the bar this weekend and tightened the nuts on the sway bar/end link connection as tight as I could. No clunks/squeaks after two days but we shall see.

 

[GTI Jake]

Here’s a diy install video I put together tonight for anyone interested.

https://youtu.be/K5iksLsq2Ak

 

[snobrdrdan]

I had a clunking issue, I found that one of my end links was not fully tightened. I haven't had any clunking noises since, now I have a squeaking noise. I think thats just the nature of poly bushings. The squeaking is so bad that I'm tempted to go back to oem bar and bushings. I have in fact greased the fittings and still have squeaks. Does anyone know if I can buy oem rubber bushings in a larger size? I haven't seen any on the market.

H&R sway bar = problem solved

No noises with their no maintenance bushings

 

[mj8807]

Do you by chance know if they are rubber or poly?

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