I run 235/40/18 on my nuespeeds. And yes their catalog isn't online so I got that from talking/emailing them directly. Similar price points to other makes but they are on a summer sale till 7/31 so it makes it that much more attractive to me vs stoptech. (Add shipping $100-$200 onto those numbers).
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brake pads for the track?
- Thread starter victorofhavoc
- Start date
I run 235/40/18 on my nuespeeds. And yes their catalog isn't online so I got that from talking/emailing them directly. Similar price points to other makes but they are on a summer sale till 7/31 so it makes it that much more attractive to me vs stoptech. (Add shipping $100-$200 onto those numbers).
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
i wish i would have gone neuspeed. I almost got their rse05, but I didn't like that the spokes stuck out and didn't go to the edge of the rim. I went OZ, and while I love the strength and durability of the wheel (it can definitely take some heat), I hate hub rings! Stupid aluminum gets hot and stuck on the hub or inside of the wheel, and even rotating several times per year and after every track/autox event, the oxidation bonds the metals and i'm hitting the tire with a rubber mallet to get them off. I bent one of the brake dust shields doing this, and had to bend it back
. I wish neuspeed would make a 17x9 et40 wheel.
Thanks for the heads up on these btw. Ordered a set this morning. Hopefully these, and removing my dust shields will keep things cooler.
I also cleaned up my rotors using garnet paper. Started with 150 grit and moved up to 220. Used both a palm sander and by hand with a sanding block. Took a while to remove the obvious spots of pad transfer, but so far so good. Will take a few days of daily driving to re-establish the pad transfer layer on to the rotors, then I'll redo the bedding procedure recommended by Endless. I also scuffed up the MX72's a bunch before cleaning everything up and putting it all back together. Have driven on it a few times since and I only got a few tiny squeaks (way better than before), and no pulsating in the pedal. We'll see how good a job I did in a few days when I start to lay into the pedal more from higher speeds.
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Reading this with interest as i'm coming from a well-understood Mk6 to a completely-new-to-me 2015 non-PP S, and know for sure that i'm going to be needing to make some changes in the braking department... trying to learn about the available options. On the Mk6, i ran DTC-60 in front and HT-10 out back, and the fronts would have about 8 hours of track life, about the same as the rotors... rears would last forever, good for probably 40 hours on track. Sadly, my stash of pads, calipers, and Tyrolsport bushings is useless to me now, though i can still use the front rotors...
Lurking in here to try and figure out what to do with this new thing. Seems with the non-PP the options are Ferodo 2500, EBC yellow, and... possibly Carbotech? Any hints appreciated!
Lurking in here to try and figure out what to do with this new thing. Seems with the non-PP the options are Ferodo 2500, EBC yellow, and... possibly Carbotech? Any hints appreciated!
Reading this with interest as i'm coming from a well-understood Mk6 to a completely-new-to-me 2015 non-PP S, and know for sure that i'm going to be needing to make some changes in the braking department... trying to learn about the available options. On the Mk6, i ran DTC-60 in front and HT-10 out back, and the fronts would have about 8 hours of track life, about the same as the rotors... rears would last forever, good for probably 40 hours on track. Sadly, my stash of pads, calipers, and Tyrolsport bushings is useless to me now, though i can still use the front rotors...
Lurking in here to try and figure out what to do with this new thing. Seems with the non-PP the options are Ferodo 2500, EBC yellow, and... possibly Carbotech? Any hints appreciated!
iSweep. I have the 2500 and they squeal on street. The 2000 series might be better balance, but 2500 was good on track for me (novice level).
Reading this with interest as i'm coming from a well-understood Mk6 to a completely-new-to-me 2015 non-PP S, and know for sure that i'm going to be needing to make some changes in the braking department... trying to learn about the available options. On the Mk6, i ran DTC-60 in front and HT-10 out back, and the fronts would have about 8 hours of track life, about the same as the rotors... rears would last forever, good for probably 40 hours on track. Sadly, my stash of pads, calipers, and Tyrolsport bushings is useless to me now, though i can still use the front rotors...
Lurking in here to try and figure out what to do with this new thing. Seems with the non-PP the options are Ferodo 2500, EBC yellow, and... possibly Carbotech? Any hints appreciated!
How are your rotors only lasting 8 hours. Most people I know only run thru 1 set of rotors over the course of the season (8 events). Pads usually 2-3 events as well.
Getting an entire season out of a set of stock rotors on a fast GTI is not possible. On a slow GTI, perhaps.
<edit> I should say, a fast car on R-comps. No disrespect!
8 hours is approximately two two-day HPDE events, by which time the rotors are showing cracks deep enough to feel with a fingernail. Perhaps i could get another event out of them, but at that point, they're going to be eroding the pads at an elevated rate, so there'd be no point.
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Thanks, Dybz, i just heard of these iSweep. In my case, i don't really care about the dust or noise so much, the DTCs were just laughably loud and obnoxious. Just looking to get something that works as well as the old setup, and not too interested in long-term testing, if you know what i mean.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
Getting an entire season out of a set of stock rotors on a fast GTI is not possible. On a slow GTI, perhaps.
<edit> I should say, a fast car on R-comps. No disrespect!
8 hours is approximately two two-day HPDE events, by which time the rotors are showing cracks deep enough to feel with a fingernail. Perhaps i could get another event out of them, but at that point, they're going to be eroding the pads at an elevated rate, so there'd be no point.
Cracks or grooves? Big difference there. I've only done two track days with my stock rotors/pads and the grooves are atrocious. Taking the rotors over to a procut place today to see if they can do anything before i throw my new pads on, but the stock rotors are 30mm with a 27mm minimum wear. My grooves are so deep they'd have to cut at least 0.5mm, so I'm not happy either way. My car has 25k miles on it though (I bought it used before winter, so it basically sat for a year as a strict DD/autox car), and euro rotors tend to be thinner and softer than others.
Thanks, Dybz, i just heard of these iSweep. In my case, i don't really care about the dust or noise so much, the DTCs were just laughably loud and obnoxious. Just looking to get something that works as well as the old setup, and not too interested in long-term testing, if you know what i mean.
I hated my DTC when I had them. They need TONS of lube on the shims, a very thorough bed in process, and new rotors to try to prevent squealing, but they still end up making some noise. They howled when coming down from higher speeds too. I switched to Porterfield (Pagid) on that car and they were silent in comparison. Far less dusty too, which was nice because my hands didn't get as dirty when swapping wheels.
Getting an entire season out of a set of stock rotors on a fast GTI is not possible. On a slow GTI, perhaps.
<edit> I should say, a fast car on R-comps. No disrespect!
8 hours is approximately two two-day HPDE events, by which time the rotors are showing cracks deep enough to feel with a fingernail. Perhaps i could get another event out of them, but at that point, they're going to be eroding the pads at an elevated rate, so there'd be no point.
Highly doubtful. Most of the guys I know are BMW guys and they get a full season or so out of their stoptech kits on pagid race pads. I'm on track day #3 and my rotors look brand new minus the typical cracking.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
For sliding calipers, I like to use a bit of silicon grease on the slide bolts. For pads that don't have hard attached shims, I put some lithium grease between the shim and pad. For all pads, I use grease on the edges of the pistons, and then put a thin, consistent layer across the majority of the shim (similar to how you want thermal paste on a processor-heatsink). The little metal pad holders that slide into the caliper (I forget what they're actually called), also get some silicon grease to make it easier to pull them out later or shove the pad in, but that's not really required and makes no performance/noise difference. I've forgotten the grease on the shim a couple times, and the noise difference can be significant.
Interesting. The MX72 pads have a shim on them that's made of some type of fabric ... it has give to it, it's weird. I figured that was there for anti-squeal properties, but I could be wrong on that. Maybe it's worth taking them out and lubing up the back of the pad on the piston side. Even after all the work I did this weekend on the rotors, I'm still getting some squealing on very slow stops, right when you're about to completely stop. 10% pedal pressure, at most. Super annoying. Maybe she's just dry. Before the last track day they were silent on the street for months!
I did not, but I do not believe my brakes squeal from vibrations. It's from the glazing that builds up from not running at their desired temps. Goes away for a few days after some hard driving/stops.
victorofhavoc
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Kansas City
If you still have any of the "glaze" left over, that might be it. Other than that, what you're describing I've seen when the pads are worn at an angle. If you ride them a lot with very light pressure, or go in reverse with light pedal pressure a lot, the pad can be worn down at an angle. As you apply the brakes the front or back of the pad will make contact first and cause a squealing sound.