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BMS VW GTI JB4 info thread

Z

zoominms3

Ready to race!
Location
Buffalo NY
blaqsheep said:
The grommet right of your finger. Poke a hole and snake the cable through it. Removing the battery makes it easier but not needed.


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Click to expand...


That’s how I ran mine ??
 
ChrisMk77

ChrisMk77

Autocross Champion
Location
Sweden
Car(s)
2018 GTI Performance
zoominms3 said:
Can someone please help me out!

I traded in the 7 for a 7.5

AFR wire is needed for map 2?
Also which wire do we tap? 2019 GTI?

And last but not least what should fuel bias be for right now on map 1? At least until I can switch to map 2/6

Was told to make the FOL 45
Click to expand...

Yes AFR tap needed for map2/6.

Tap the white wire on top going to the second O2 sensor shown in the second AFR posi tap picture in the install guide.

https://n54tech.com/instructions/VW_JB4_install.pdf

Set all fuel bias to 100 and set FOL to 50 for pump gas then log and post in the JB4 logging thread.
 
Z

zoominms3

Ready to race!
Location
Buffalo NY
ChrisMk77 said:
Yes AFR tap needed for map2/6.

Tap the white wire on top going to the second O2 sensor shown in the second AFR posi tap picture in the install guide.

https://n54tech.com/instructions/VW_JB4_install.pdf

Set all fuel bias to 100 and set FOL to 50 for pump gas then log and post in the JB4 logging thread.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Bias are all set to 100. Will up the FOL from 45 to 50 when I get home today.

Also will be tapping so I can work up a nice map 6 ??
 
George Smooth

George Smooth

Drag Race Newbie
Location
South Africa
Need a couple of guys with those idle pulses to email me for some test software. Around 10 or so guys will get it. Once I got enough testers I will post here so the whole user based doesn't email me.
It seems we have ironed things out quite a bit. We will release a firmware version then with some added maps too if things go well. George@burgertuning.com . In email let me know if you data cable or phone app so I can send instructions same time to load.
 
B

bkiusmaximus

New member
Location
Oakland, CA
Hi all, quick question to help a dummy like me (but too late to help with upcoming service appointment...)

When routing OBDII lead into engine bay, I accidentally misidentified the ‘o ring’ we’ve all been talking about and cut through a different rubber seal. I think it’s the one that helps isolate the clutch pedal in manual cars? (I have a DSG). It’s highly-irregularly-shaped and has multiple ‘levels’ to it, kind of like the tower of Hanoi toy.

Anyone know how I can identify this piece, buy a replacement, and install it — without going through the dealer? I just cut the top off the last ‘level’ and routed the cable through there, but may want to eventually put it back to full stock (again, doubt anyone would see it as is, but do have a small appointment tomorrow at dealer. More worried about future).

Been loving the JB4, and can’t wait to put it back in... car just doesn’t feel the same without it.
 
T

tcabrino

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Indiana, USA
Car(s)
MK7.5 Rabbit
bkiusmaximus said:
Hi all, quick question to help a dummy like me (but too late to help with upcoming service appointment...)

When routing OBDII lead into engine bay, I accidentally misidentified the ‘o ring’ we’ve all been talking about and cut through a different rubber seal. I think it’s the one that helps isolate the clutch pedal in manual cars? (I have a DSG). It’s highly-irregularly-shaped and has multiple ‘levels’ to it, kind of like the tower of Hanoi toy.

Anyone know how I can identify this piece, buy a replacement, and install it — without going through the dealer? I just cut the top off the last ‘level’ and routed the cable through there, but may want to eventually put it back to full stock (again, doubt anyone would see it as is, but do have a small appointment tomorrow at dealer. More worried about future).

Been loving the JB4, and can’t wait to put it back in... car just doesn’t feel the same without it.
Click to expand...

What I did was buy this part number on a dealership.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/plug/5q0723753/
 
K

KTin

New member
Location
Maryland
Hello guys. Can someone please explain the difference between map 1 and map 2. And what do I need to be able to run map 2. Lastly how do I change the map from map2 to map 1. Thank you.
 
blaqsheep

blaqsheep

Autocross Champion
Location
Canada
Car(s)
IS38 GTI
KTin said:
Hello guys. Can someone please explain the difference between map 1 and map 2. And what do I need to be able to run map 2. Lastly how do I change the map from map2 to map 1. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Map 0: Stock with complete pass through i.e. the JB4 does nothing

Map 1: Tuned map with a average of 4.0psi over stock. This is the shipped map and is compatible for both 91 and 93 and can be used with cars on hardware.

Map 2: This map is a more aggressive map. Peak boost add is 5.6psi over stock and the map is good for cars running 93 and above.

Map 4: This is a stock map but with JB4 logging ability. It is also the starter map for cars that are running flash tunes and are stacking the JB4. It will give the ability to log the car via the JB4. This is also the safety map, so in any circumstance the JB4 detects a unsafe condition regardless of map it will default to this map. This includes knock detection, lean AFR or the boost safety value being triggered due to lack of boost control.

Map 6: User adjustable boost map. The map comes preset with a 5.0psi over stock peak and is ready to use on any car running 93 octane. The preset map is also suitable for manual cars with clutch longevity in mind.
The mapping can be done in two manners. If the value at 1500 is kept below 10 it will work as a boost adder map. If the value at 1500 is higher than 10 it will work as a absolute map. This means actual total boost targets will need to be entered.

Map 8: Map three allows the JB4 to be the methanol controller working as a fail safe cutting boost if lack of meth flow is detected. You will require a Coolingmist FSB to get this working.
 
marc5800

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
blaqsheep said:
Map 0: Stock with complete pass through i.e. the JB4 does nothing



Map 1: Tuned map with a average of 4.0psi over stock. This is the shipped map and is compatible for both 91 and 93 and can be used with cars on hardware.



Map 2: This map is a more aggressive map. Peak boost add is 5.6psi over stock and the map is good for cars running 93 and above.



Map 4: This is a stock map but with JB4 logging ability. It is also the starter map for cars that are running flash tunes and are stacking the JB4. It will give the ability to log the car via the JB4. This is also the safety map, so in any circumstance the JB4 detects a unsafe condition regardless of map it will default to this map. This includes knock detection, lean AFR or the boost safety value being triggered due to lack of boost control.



Map 6: User adjustable boost map. The map comes preset with a 5.0psi over stock peak and is ready to use on any car running 93 octane. The preset map is also suitable for manual cars with clutch longevity in mind.

The mapping can be done in two manners. If the value at 1500 is kept below 10 it will work as a boost adder map. If the value at 1500 is higher than 10 it will work as a absolute map. This means actual total boost targets will need to be entered.



Map 8: Map three allows the JB4 to be the methanol controller working as a fail safe cutting boost if lack of meth flow is detected. You will require a Coolingmist FSB to get this working.
Click to expand...



Map4 is valet mode now on the newest firmware. Max of 12psi


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Z

ZuMBLe

Autocross Champion
Location
NY
Car(s)
Alltrack 6MT
marc5800 said:
Map4 is valet mode now on the newest firmware. Max of 12psi


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I think it's half of ECU request. If your base flash called for 24 psi, you'd get 12. If your base flash called for 9 psi, you'd get 4-5. I think the valet is more effective on cars with stock ecus.
 
toothofwar

toothofwar

Autocross Champion
Location
KY
Car(s)
2018 Golf R
I have looked for this issue on here and Google and came up short, so I figured I'd ask the masses. I am running the otg cable to the jb4 app on my phone. I have an otg adapter to go from the Male USB on the jb4 to the Male type c needed for my phone. Been working great, but I cant have my otter box case on with this setup due to the adapter being too big. So I was digging around for a solution and I purchased these items....

USB Connector Female to Female... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FT9MDX4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



TNSO USB C Cable 5Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFMLCPK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share



In theory it was a very logical solution. Was going to hide the cable in the dash wiring and have only a short piece come out in the cubby in front of the shifter to plug into my phone. The problem is, my phone wont connect to the jb4 with this configuration. I have tried a couple different cords and connectors and it seams the otg adapter that came with my phone is the only thing that will work. So I guess my question is, how is everyone else connecting to there jb4 with the cable? I'm not really interested in doing the bt adapter. Would like to keep things hard wired to the jb4. Thanks!

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