Have you checked the IAT and OAT readings against another source to determine if what the car is reading is accurate?The two deflectors on each side are on.
Not sure how I could check the iat against another source. You mean install a probe? The OAT is accurate.Have you checked the IAT and OAT readings against another source to determine if what the car is reading is accurate?
Not sure how I could check the iat against another source. You mean install a probe? The OAT is accurate.
The silicon hoses look tight, but another set of eyes would be nice.Maybe the silicon hoses are loose? I can take a look when we meet up at Bear Mountain. Well I can try. I know in my car you can see some of the hose from the top of the engine.
I installed (DIY) the IE intercooler last weekend so maybe I'll see something that comes to mind while looking around.
Glad I did it then because it's a lot warmer to be working in garage with limited airflow this week then it was last week!
Not sure how I could check the iat against another source. You mean install a probe? The OAT is accurate.
Excellent idea! I'll wait till it's been dark for a few hours so the OAT sensor should be the same as the IAT sensor.Look at what the IAT reading is without the engine running after the car has sat for a day or so in temperatures that are fairly consistent, it should be close to ambient.
The two deflectors on each side are on.
I found my IAT to be 10 to 12 degrees higher than. The OAT sensor both last night and this morning without ever turning the car on. Can someone else check their cars? Thanks!
Deflectors are in. IS20 turbo with APR IS20 tune for now. I would think if there was a boost leak that would be bad enough to affect temps at cruise, I'd surely throw a CEL at WOT and possibly not make target boost. Looks like possibly sensor problem? Need someone else to compare to.Man, I don’t know. Your temp readings make no sense. It should be considerably better than stock. I really think there’s a massive leak/diversion of incoming air not being forced through the I/C.
What about the air deflectors going to the A/C condenser? Are they still in place?
What turbo and boost are you running? It’s possible you’re running way past the efficiency range and the I/C isn’t able to keep up, but I doubt that's the case.
Deflectors are in. IS20 turbo with APR IS20 tune for now. I would think if there was a boost leak that would be bad enough to affect temps at cruise, I'd surely throw a CEL at WOT and possibly not make target boost. Looks like possibly sensor problem? Need someone else to compare to.
Not referring to a boost leak, by leak, I’m referring to the way the air is forced or directed through the a/c condenser, then into the I/C. If there’s a gaping area that allows the air to go around the condenser, then your I/C won’t get enough air to cool the charged air from the turbo.
Can you share pics of the assembled front end, specifically from the grill area under the bumper?
Also, for cruising temps...the highest I’ve hit so far with the AMS I/C is 50* over ambient! I’m a FIRM believer that the temp/MAP sensor is being affected by the intake manifold temperature since at low speeds (ie bumper to bumper traffic) not much air is flowing through the manifold since the engine doesn’t need the air to make the low HP needed to creep along. I’ve got a laser temp thermometer and one of these days, I’ll take the temp of the manifold near the sensor to confirm.
Does anyone know if the MAP sensor on the I/C outlet pipe is also capable of measuring temperature? That reading would be the true reading of how well the I/C is working.
I'll hopefully get some pics tomorrow. I do see the two black pieces of plastic that are on the sides of the condenser. The passenger side one covers the AC lines, right?
I thought the IAT readings were coming from the sensor in the charge pipe after the IC outlet? It would be great if someone could confirm.