Blew Exhaust Manifold - Turbo Gasket. Need advise for easiest replacement

[Mosquito]

Seems my manifold to turbo gasket is shot. Bottom 2 bolts show a small oil residue (had cleaned it off a couple of days ago) and this is probably why my power is a bit down, my LTFTs are around +14%, off throttle a bit rich and my MPG is down.
Also, no codes yet and runs still pretty good. The leak is rather small still.

I've been looking at the IS38 turbo replacement DIYs for guidance, but I probably don't need to go through all THAT trouble.

Wondering if anyone who has done the swap or replacement can chime in with their suggestions.
the stud bolts are not very long so I am wondering if removing the turbo brace and stud bolts will allow enough movement to remove and replace with gasket without more trouble.

 

[Diggs24]

Definitely think you could get it done with only removing DP, engine mount bracket and heatshield. No one ever seems to replace studs though so not sure how hard those are to get out. Won't be easy and might need a second set of hands to hold in place while you reinstall studs through gasket holes.

Doesn't sound like fun regardless.

 

[Mosquito]

Was thinking of trying to avoid loosening up the downpipe, but I can manage if it comes down to it and the turbo replacement hardware kit includes both new gaskets anyhow.
I was not particularly thinking of replacing the studs, but planned to use some good old PB Blaster on the whole thing, clean then up afterwards, grease them up a bit for future and replace the nuts with new ones.
Unless it starts to get interesting half way through and that is what I am truly afraid of.

 

[Diggs24]

I meant disconnecting DP from turbo. You need it out of the way.

 

[Mosquito]

I meant disconnecting DP from turbo. You need it out of the way.

My bad. That's what I meant to say. Remove the v-clamp to disconnect from turbo.
I have the APR downpipe and I think the only other thing holding it in place is the bottom bracket so hopefully it allows for some movement in itself.

At the end of the day all I need is enough slack to pull the turbo back a few inches towards the firewall in order to replace the gasket and bolt it back on.

 

[Diggs24]

Yes, but you'll be surprised all the junk that needs to be disconnected to get that few inches, thus why I suggest maybe removing the studs so you really only need a sliver to sneak the gasket in.

 

[Mosquito]

Yes, but you'll be surprised all the junk that needs to be disconnected to get that few inches, thus why I suggest maybe removing the studs so you really only need a sliver to sneak the gasket in.

I like your style. It almost makes it sound easy.
Bought the hardware kit already so I suppose I can change the studs to new as well then.

 

[torga]

Do the gen3 engines have the same issue as the gen1 engines where it's sometimes a gamble as to whether or not the driver-side exhaust stud will snap and turn into a gigantic headache?
Just be wary of that.

 

[Diggs24]

No one ever removes the studs when they do a turbo swap.

 

[torga]

They still snap on gen1 engines even from removing the nut.

 

[Diggs24]

Have yet to see that happen so they must have solved it. Also, we have 4 studs if that makes any difference.

 

[Mosquito]

Do the gen3 engines have the same issue as the gen1 engines where it's sometimes a gamble as to whether or not the driver-side exhaust stud will snap and turn into a gigantic headache?
Just be wary of that.

I don't know but it happens on both the studs and nuts probably due to the heat cycle and is almost inevitable. It is one of those things that you either never want to touch or do so earlier rather than later.
I am at 52K right now. The nuts are usually manageable so long as you have PB Blaster on hand and some patience. It takes a while to work its magic. The studs on the other hand are a bigger gamble.

 

[torga]

Have yet to see that happen so they must have solved it. Also, we have 4 studs if that makes any difference.

That's good, I'm glad. K04 swaps have turned into a real big headache for more than a few mk6 guys.

I don't know but it happens on both the studs and nuts probably due to the heat cycle and is almost inevitable. It is one of those things that you either never want to touch or do so earlier rather than later.
I am at 52K right now. The nuts are usually manageable so long as you have PB Blaster on hand and some patience. It takes a while to work its magic. The studs on the other hand are a bigger gamble.

Give Aerokroil a try. It's worked better than PB Blaster in my experience. It also smells worryingly good.

 

[Mosquito]

Back when I did a prior MK6 downpipe install it sometimes happened that the stud would turn with a seized nut on it. Didn't happen to me, but I've heard of it and it is better than it snapping off.
If it can come out, it can go back in. The first snap when it finally loosens up is the scariest.

 

[Mosquito]

That's good, I'm glad. K04 swaps have turned into a real big headache for more than a few mk6 guys.

Give Aerokroil a try. It's worked better than PB Blaster in my experience. It also smells worryingly good.

Will do.
Thanks.