best option for more camber

[dwbandler]

Next mod on my MK7 R will be coilovers, most likely KW V3's. As of today the only suspension mod is a H&R RSB.

I'd like to get a bit more camber up front and am trying to decide what options make the most sense; because the V3's don't have adjustable top hats, I have been looking at different top mounts. A lot of the reviews I have read indicate that there is a decent amount of NVH when using options like the 034 and SuperPro top mounts. Not ideal for me.

Another option that seems reasonable are the 034 ball joints that add 1.2* of negative camber. These are appealing based on their reasonable price but I also spoke with a guy at my shop who mentioned his started making noise shortly after installing them. Is anyone currently using these that could provide their experience.

Aftermarket LCA's are a third option, but more expensive. A fourth option would be to just go with the KW's and enjoy them as is. Car is not getting tracked, my main goal is to get better turn in when ripping through the canyons.

Curious to hear other folks thoughts on the best compromise for more negative camber without too much NVH.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I really like the idea of the new o34 tall ball joints but historically thier products associated with this platform often have premature failures.

If your goal is to stick with stock like nvh I would just do these:

https://www.eurosportacc.com/collections/suspension/products/18700k


The also sell them pre assembled if your gonna get new mounts anyways.

https://www.eurosportacc.com/produc...1&_sid=e7981b10a&_ss=r&variant=32232076279857

 

[Superfreak]

Next mod on my MK7 R will be coilovers, most likely KW V3's. As of today the only suspension mod is a H&R RSB.

I'd like to get a bit more camber up front and am trying to decide what options make the most sense; because the V3's don't have adjustable top hats, I have been looking at different top mounts. A lot of the reviews I have read indicate that there is a decent amount of NVH when using options like the 034 and SuperPro top mounts. Not ideal for me.

Another option that seems reasonable are the 034 ball joints that add 1.2* of negative camber. These are appealing based on their reasonable price but I also spoke with a guy at my shop who mentioned his started making noise shortly after installing them. Is anyone currently using these that could provide their experience.

Aftermarket LCA's are a third option, but more expensive. A fourth option would be to just go with the KW's and enjoy them as is. Car is not getting tracked, my main goal is to get better turn in when ripping through the canyons.

Curious to hear other folks thoughts on the best compromise for more negative camber without too much NVH.

My R does really well with the Eurosport kit mentioned above. Stock suspension, h&r lowering springs, upgraded front and rear sway bars. I rarely experience understeer. I’d start with this setup and see if you really do need coilovers. Let me know if you want to go and rip some twisty roads, I’m up above S Turkey Creek.

 

[dwbandler]

thank you both! And yes @Superfreak I am definitely down once we get through this bad weather. Shoot me a DM and we can connect.

I also just saw that Whiteline had their own ball joint option. Anyone running those? Curious if they have the same issues as the 034 ball joints.

 

[SouthFL_Mk7.5]

I should have gone the Eurosport route.

Initially I went with Superpro tophats and Superpro LCA’s. This yielded -2 deg up front.
The NVH was factory-like for about 6 months. Over the next year it worsened enough to make me want to take them off.

I went with the VWR spring/damper kit with factory tophats and kept the Superpro LCA‘a. Front camber setting at -1.1 with the springs/LCA combo.

 

[Will_]

I wouldn’t bother with a solid metal camber plate like Vorschlag or similar unless you will be tracking a lot and want the full camber adjustability, but even with that setup you may be limited by how narrow the strut tower opening is. For daily and occasional canyon runs, the Eurosport offset mounts are highly recommended. I’d avoid SuperPro or 034 camber plates, I ran the Superpro ones and they added significant NVH, even more than my current setup which is EQT coilovers with built in adjustable camber plates.

For ball joints I’d choose Whiteline over 034. Not sure what brake setup you’re running, but FWIW one person reported that the 034 ball joints don’t fit with any rotor larger than stock.

 

[blaqsheep]

If you want a fixed plate with no increase to NVH, the Eurosport insert is the way to go. Paired with CSS knuckles will give you a decent amount of negative camber.

Otherwise if you're building a track tool and NVH isn't a concern, go with adjustable plates like Vorschlag.

 

[scrllock]

Whiteline adjustable balljoints or eurosport camber pucks both meet your criteria. CSS knuckles do as well but are significantly more expensive nowadays.
I would avoid 034's mounts unlike you like playing the lottery.

 

[dwbandler]

this is super helpful, thanks @scrllock @blaqsheep @Will_ @SouthFL_Mk7.5 @Superfreak @El_bigote_AJ

 

[SPLR337]

The eurosport inserts seem popular, and I'm tempted to pull the trigger on them. Not so tempted to replace the mounts again any time soon though as I just did B8s w/DG springs like 6k miles ago.

The 034 ball joints are interesting as well, and seems like they would pair well with the mount inserts for a decent amount of camber. Unfortunately I am hesitant to put anything 034 branded on my car until there's more reviews. Ideally I would love the CS knuckles but thats money I would rather put towards a clutch or tune.

 

[2beaks]

Personally I didn't get along with the Eurosportac top mounts. Too much NVH...even the wife mentioned it too. I tried having refit twice, just too edgy over bumps. I don't care what they say on the web in the marketing, just wasn't supple like the standard mounts in my experience.
I have a MK7 clubsport with standard DCC springs and bilstien gas DCC shocks so that's with an LSD and tune in the region of 400BHP on IS38 turbo. The chassis works hard.

Running alu wishbones, whiteline lower balljoints (which allow some camber and bumpsteer correction) and powerflex adjustable camber front bushes allows enough adjustment from -0.5 to -2.5 degrees. I've hammered this setup, it's comfortable and direct and it's lasted really well. It's my daily with wife and kids but it handles like a cat on the mountain roads when you open it up. (I stick at -2.0 camber setting, and about 8-8.5 degrees caster -gets enough traction off the line and no outer tyre wear after pushing it.)
Wife is not happy i wear out two sets of tyres a year...but my local roads are pretty epic.
I did a cheeky modify to the the 3 lower balljoint bolts through the lower arm to remove the threads where they go through the wishbone. (not the thickness of the bolt itself, that allowed another couple of mm camber adjustment).
- If you do this, at your own risk and don't weaken the bolts.

https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/products/kta262-control-arm
https://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Front+Wishbone+Front+Bush+Camber+Adjustable/11414.html
https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/.../kca472-roll-centre-bump-steer-correction-kit

To go along with this, as I've tried quite a bit of gear the parts that make the big changes to handling are clearly tyres, your unsprung weight (e.g. run 18s and porsche callipers, lighter discs). A big big thanks to GTIfan99 for the Macan brake detail. Also you must turn off the braking nannies on any car you're going to drive hard, mods or not. Nearly caused me to crash one time when the car locked up skipping some bumps....soon figured it. Hydraulic brake assist, straight line stability are must do.

Key handling upgrades were alu subframe from an A3 (or Clubsport S). Pilotsport 4S very good all around, last really well, will grab back onto the road when you're maybe pushing too much, bit weak off the line when cold. Pilotsport 4 will blow you away in the rain, but easy to overheat in summer after 5-10 minutes, great off the line. Eagle supersport better feel, get harsher with age, not bad off the line (much improved over PS4S) and more feel than the PS4S. This is my current favourite.
Front strut brace helped last 10% directness https://www.ecodetuning.com/ec0111-0302-eurocode-8v-mk7-mqb-front-chassis-brace.html - it's neat fitment, noticeable at limit but not night and day.
And unibrace rear seat brace made a HUGE difference. I'd recommend you do this almost before anything else unless you only do traffic lights.
The under chassis brace less-so noteceable.
The rear has superpro polybushes (5 from memory) and 034 motorsport ARB on softer setting. Just helps with car rotation. On the CS you can disable the stability control totally, that's when you can enjoy it.

Happy with the car. Great daily, can hold it's own against much faster cars on the mountains and still practical. I do honeslty think it's pretty close to the limit of what a (normal) FWD car can do. Probably a bit quick for the road TBH, If i drove it in the USA I would be afraid of getting arrested.
Would like a Porsche next but that isnt as compatible with kids and bank account as a golf

Hope this helps, let me know how you find the top mounts if you try!

 

[odessa.filez]

If it were me (I do my own wrenching), I'd go ahead and install the v3s. Find the ride height you like. Experience the change in NVH / ride comfort from stock. Maybe it keeps you smiling for awhile.

Then you can get some ideas on wheel / tire clearances. If you'e on aftermarket wheels, this could come into play if you try adding camber / caster via the LCA.

 

[bfury5]

If the V3s come with camber plates, I'd just run them and see how it is. No extra cost, and once they're on the car you can judge if you want something else.

I had metal camber plates (whatever comes with the BC kit) and they never once rattled on me. I checked tightness every so often and replaced the bearings every year as a precaution, and they were extremely livable (and this was with very stiff springs too). They seem to be a YMMV thing.

 

[dwbandler]

The other thing I didn’t consider until today is that I should get some negative camber just lowering the car, correct? Anyone have an idea how much negative camber I would get with JUST v3 coilovers lowered one inch? Based on the driving I do (daily/canyons on the weekend) my sense is that might do the trick

 

[bfury5]

The other thing I didn’t consider until today is that I should get some negative camber just lowering the car, correct? Anyone have an idea how much negative camber I would get with JUST v3 coilovers lowered one inch? Based on the driving I do (daily/canyons on the weekend) my sense is that might do the trick

maybe .5deg or so, it's not all that much from just lowering. With 0 front toe you could safely run ~2deg and not have an impact to tire wear.