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75K refresh, tune-up, suggestions..

SD11

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2017 VW GTI SE DSG
Hey all, been a minute since I have been around. I noticed a month or so ago one of my front struts was groaning, think its time to give this buggy some love. Here are a few things I am planning to do to the car, anything else? And most importantly, I had planned on just using OEM stuff, but after thinking about it, would love some suggestions for struts/brakes and anything else. I am not buying coilovers or anything expensive, while not a beater, its a work car for the most part and I don't want to spend more than I have to within reason.

1. New struts all corners
2. Pads and rotors, bleed lines.
3. Serp belt
4. Water pump and coolant
5. Engine oil/filter
6. Plugs (coils??)
7. DSG filter/fluid
8. Air and in cabin filters

??????

Thanks in advance!!!
 

cb1111

Newbie
Location
Virginia, USA
Do you need pads and rotors?
Waterpump? Serpentine belt? Plugs/Coils? Sounds awfully early for that?
The rest is routine maintenance.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
Do you need pads and rotors?
Waterpump? Serpentine belt? Plugs/Coils? Sounds awfully early for that?
The rest is routine maintenance.

I agree about not needing a few of the items like the water pump, coils, belt and pads and rotors only if needed. But I would definitely do the plugs, DSG fluid and filters.
 

SD11

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2017 VW GTI SE DSG
You guys think the plugs/coils/rotors pads, serp belt etc.. will go another 75k?

You all want to wait until your stuff breaks down, that is up to you. I don't need the aggravation. Money well spent for me...
 

MSchott

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Michigan
I had my oil changed and tires rotated at 70,000 miles about 2 weeks ago. They checked the brake pads and there is 6mm left so I have 15-20,000 more miles on them. I'd have them measured before you make any decision. The rotors should be fine.
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
You guys think the plugs/coils/rotors pads, serp belt etc.. will go another 75k?

You all want to wait until your stuff breaks down, that is up to you. I don't need the aggravation. Money well spent for me...

The plugs should have been done at 40-50,000 miles. Coils only need replaced if they fail. Pads and rotors depending upon wear. You don't just replace them at a set mileage. What year is your car?
 

cb1111

Newbie
Location
Virginia, USA
You guys think the plugs/coils/rotors pads, serp belt etc.. will go another 75k?

You all want to wait until your stuff breaks down, that is up to you. I don't need the aggravation. Money well spent for me...
Why another 75k? Is that the only time you service your vehicle? Plugs are done every 50k or so, coils when needed, rotors/pads whenever they are needed (you can tell by measuring the pads), serpentine belt when it is damaged or cracked (check at each service). The belt usually lasts at least 100k miles.

Do what you want if you have money to burn, but changing things like brakes based on miles is just plain stupid.
 

SD11

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2017 VW GTI SE DSG
You guys are funny, let me ask you this. If you could easily afford to do the things I am mentioning, why wouldn't you do it? Why wouldn't you want your car in the best possible mechanical condition it could be in?

Secondly, I don't really have the time to take it to the dealer 6x times, having each of these items done as needed or ones and twos as they come due.

The brakes are worn, and putting new equipment on a well used car is not stupid at all. Suggesting its stupid or not considering other factors like my time and peace of mind is definitely stupid.....

Lastly, when I go to sell my car and I show you all of my receipts showing I not only properly cared for the car, but that I kept it in exceptional condition, are they going to buy yours or mine? And which one will bring the highest resale? Its a wash in the end, but I get to drive a well kept car relatively free from worry, whats that worth????

You guys are pretty clueless.....
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
You guys are funny, let me ask you this. If you could easily afford to do the things I am mentioning, why wouldn't you do it? Why wouldn't you want your car in the best possible mechanical condition it could be in?

Secondly, I don't really have the time to take it to the dealer 6x times, having each of these items done as needed or ones and twos as they come due.

The brakes are worn, and putting new equipment on a well used car is not stupid at all. Suggesting its stupid or not considering other factors like my time and peace of mind is definitely stupid.....

Lastly, when I go to sell my car and I show you all of my receipts showing I not only properly cared for the car, but that I kept it in exceptional condition, are they going to buy yours or mine? And which one will bring the highest resale? Its a wash in the end, but I get to drive a well kept car relatively free from worry, whats that worth????

You guys are pretty clueless.....

Nobody said that it was stupid. Just some of the parts aren't necessary and add no value to reliability. For instance if you aren't getting any misfires that can be attributed to the coils why would you replace them? It's your money so do as you please. You should have changed your plugs at 50,000 miles maximum.
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
Hey all, been a minute since I have been around. I noticed a month or so ago one of my front struts was groaning, think its time to give this buggy some love. Here are a few things I am planning to do to the car, anything else? And most importantly, I had planned on just using OEM stuff, but after thinking about it, would love some suggestions for struts/brakes and anything else. I am not buying coilovers or anything expensive, while not a beater, its a work car for the most part and I don't want to spend more than I have to within reason.

1. New struts all corners
2. Pads and rotors, bleed lines.
3. Serp belt
4. Water pump and coolant
5. Engine oil/filter
6. Plugs (coils??)
7. DSG filter/fluid
8. Air and in cabin filters

??????

Thanks in advance!!!
1. Bilstein B4
2. Centric High Carbon, Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic, a can of ATE SL.6 or Pentosin DOT4-LV
3. Factory
4. Factory water pump. Coolant: Ravenol
5. Castrol Edge 0w40, Mann filter
6. NGK OEM equivalent
7. Factory filter and fluid, or I think Ravenol has DSG fluid
8. Mann air filter and cabin filter.
 

Sparky589

Drag Racing Champion
Official VW service guide is to "check" your serpentine every 40k miles. Speaking from experience, It's actually rather sine to take off and on so, if you're really concerned about how it's holding up that's probably the best way to check for wear and cracks.

Frankly the water pump is the thing I'd wait and see on. I'm under the car every 5k miles and keeping an eye on mine for any leaks. Would recommend you do the same, as the part ain't cheap and the job is pretty involved.

Other than that Inferno's guide is good enough. Just stick with quality brands and you'll be fine.
 

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Hey all, been a minute since I have been around. I noticed a month or so ago one of my front struts was groaning, think its time to give this buggy some love. Here are a few things I am planning to do to the car, anything else? And most importantly, I had planned on just using OEM stuff, but after thinking about it, would love some suggestions for struts/brakes and anything else. I am not buying coilovers or anything expensive, while not a beater, its a work car for the most part and I don't want to spend more than I have to within reason.

1. New struts all corners
2. Pads and rotors, bleed lines.
3. Serp belt
4. Water pump and coolant
5. Engine oil/filter
6. Plugs (coils??)
7. DSG filter/fluid
8. Air and in cabin filters

??????

Thanks in advance!!!

1. Koni Yellows. I run them with lowering springs. They work just fine on shitty SoCal roads. Adjustability is a plus.
2. StopTech rotors. They get the job done. StopTech and Hawk pads will do you well. I'm sure some folks will vouch for EBC as well. I never ran them, but as far as I know they are reputable.
3. --
4. Is it leaking? If no, then don't bother. Mine has been weeping for 30k.
5. Put in anything that satisfies the 502 requirement if you are running pre 7.5. I run Liqui Moly 5w-40 just fine. Filter: just get an OEM one from the dealer.
6. Leave the coils alone. Plugs: depends on your tune. Consult with tuner or stay with stock. If tuned, replace at 20-25k intervals.
7. Can only speak for what I've read: go OEM.
8. Engine: K&N oiled filter or aFe dry drop in. Cabin: I run a washable filter. Works fine. I think what has also helped is keeping a box of baking soda in the back seat pocket. Seems to take any unpleasant smells away.
 

George Ab

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Pacific NW
Not sure why you asked for input as when input is provided counter to what you want to hear you call it stupid. I believe what people are trying to get you to consider is perfroming the right maintenance at the right time (reliability centered maintenance). For example, I replace brake pads when required by inspecting. If you can change a tire, you can inspect your pads with a flash light. That said pads are cheap and easy to replace, so if you want to, go for it. Rotors unless they are warped, not sure why you would replace. On the new struts you may consider Koni Sports or the Bilsteins B8, I am quite pleased with the Koni Sports. If your water pump is not leaking (no significant loss of fluid), I would not replace as the new one may leak after installation (my opinion is MK7 water pumps are luck of the draw). Engine and DSG oil/filter changes sure. I had a coil go out on my car so I replaced the the coils at 40K. You may consider getting the valves cleaned as usually that is required around 80-100K due to direct injection carbon build up.
 

Wade_GT

Ready to race!
Location
Los Angeles
Car(s)
'17 GTI S 6M
+1 for intake valve cleaning. The walnut blasting method is what I’ll likely have done at 60k.

I’d do bilstein B6 if sticking with stock springs.
 
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