3D Printer & C.A.D. Thread

[dtfd]

Serious question is doing a leveling really required for each print? If I'm using the same filament with the same heat on the bed and the nozzle, shouldn't my previous level be okay? I understand if I'm switching from PLA to PETG because my bed will be hotter I should consider releveling. I don't really have issues with the springs forcing the leveling gears to turn like on older ender models.

On a related note. The ender 3 stops heating while it's doing the bed leveling. Whenever I re-level I preheat my bed to what I will be using for the new filament and then start the auto leveling. Is this step actually necessary? I figured I should be leveling at what the operating temperature is going to be.

 

[gixxerfool]

Nope, forgot to mention that. No ABL cuz... I'm stubborn? I've been using mesh bed leveling but an ABL is a smarter solution. For the record, no one has ever accused me of being smart.

I would invest in one. It can compensate for almost anything. Your first layers become smooth provided you set your squish correctly. I use solid mounts and a BLTouch. I have a KlackEnder Kit on order. It was $13. That’s because I didn’t source parts myself. Setting the tram yourself is an art, but ultimately it’s a variable you can eliminate.

 

[dtfd]

I would invest in one. It can compensate for almost anything. Your first layers become smooth provided you set your squish correctly. I use solid mounts and a BLTouch. I have a KlackEnder Kit on order. It was $13. That’s because I didn’t source parts myself. Setting the tram yourself is an art, but ultimately it’s a variable you can eliminate.

 

[gixxerfool]

Serious question is doing a leveling really required for each print? If I'm using the same filament with the same heat on the bed and the nozzle, shouldn't my previous level be okay? I understand if I'm switching from PLA to PETG because my bed will be hotter I should consider releveling. I don't really have issues with the springs forcing the leveling gears to turn like on older ender models.

On a related note. The ender 3 stops heating while it's doing the bed leveling. Whenever I re-level I preheat my bed to what I will be using for the new filament and then start the auto leveling. Is this step actually necessary? I figured I should be leveling at what the operating temperature is going to be.

I always did even with upgraded springs. Room temp can affect the spring tension and your tram will still be off.

Yes. I noticed the heat will stop until the mesh is completed. Basically, as long as you set your Z offset while the hotend and bed are at operating temp, your tram should not change. Unfortunately, springs are still susceptible to many conditions. You shouldn’t need to level every print, as your ABL will compensate for the inconsistencies.

 

[gixxerfool]

Hahahah. Sorry, I sometimes nerd and expect everyone to follow along. Where’d I lose you?

 

[dtfd]

Hahahah. Sorry, I sometimes nerd and expect everyone to follow along. Where’d I lose you?

Oh don't slow down for me, I've learned more googling that last sentence that I've picked up in a while.

Two questions. So squish is really determined by getting your z offset correct right? There no settings I should be looking into other than get the level right?

Second, why solid mounts? I understand they wouldn't be affected by the enviornment as springs would but wouldn't those transfer the vibrations of the printer rather than absorbing them like springs help to do? Do you then have to add shock absorption somewhere else on the printer?

 

[gixxerfool]

Oh don't slow down for me, I've learned more googling that last sentence that I've picked up in a while.

Two questions. So squish is really determined by getting your z offset correct right? There no settings I should be looking into other than get the level right?

Second, why solid mounts? I understand they wouldn't be affected by the enviornment as springs would but wouldn't those transfer the vibrations of the printer rather than absorbing them like springs help to do? Do you then have to add shock absorption somewhere else on the printer?

Yes. Keep in mind this is independent of the bed tram. This is taken only on a single point of reference on the bed while everything is warmed up. This will set your first layer. I use the paper method, which takes a little practice, but works well. No matter the filament used your Z offset will stay the same. If you make any changes though, nozzle, hotend, bed, build plate, it will need to be reset.

Solid mounts will allow for consistency. In theory, you should only need to run one bed mesh as long as everything else stays the same. I still have the printer run a mesh every print, just because it does. These combined with an ABL will allow for super consistent results. Most solid mounts are metal core with printed outer layers, so they don’t suffer as much as springs will.

 

[AzteCypher]

I currently have the yellow springs and after I first installed them I didn't have to re-level for several prints. Three years and a bunch prints later, I wonder if they're still as effective. I can see why solid mounts might be a good option.

Truly I should just quit being stubborn and get an ABL. It'll definitely save me some time though I'm just a hobbyist and I enjoy messing about with my Ender 3.

 

[gixxerfool]

I currently have the yellow springs and after I first installed them I didn't have to re-level for several prints. Three years and a bunch prints later, I wonder if they're still as effective. I can see why solid mounts might be a good option.

Truly I should just quit being stubborn and get an ABL. It'll definitely save me some time though I'm just a hobbyist and I enjoy messing about with my Ender 3.

I had better luck with the yellow springs. After some thought I came to the conclusion that it’s all variables and for more consistent results, you need to minimize those variables. You’re already fighting three moving axis, resonance, flexing, two heated components, firmware quirks, filament quirks, slicer quirks and a whole other host of crap as well that’s not including environmental. While I’m a firm believer in starting off with a machine that will teach you the finer points of these, eventually, you need to start eliminating some of these as best you can.

Now, I sit in my living room and once my design is done I just send it off to the printer over the network and check it via webcam. Is it a perfect system? God no. But I am confident enough to let it fly.

There’s a point of diminishing returns in this as well. You can perfect tramming via knobs, but at some point, it will end up just being tedious. I figure let the machine do the work, that’s the point, isn’t it?

There are some great ABL options now, even more than a few years ago. Most are pretty easy to set up and someone most likely has done the hard part too. I love my BLTouch, but there are some known issues when using it with the Sprite Pro Extruder. So I decided to build the KlackEnder. I can also just leave my current tool head in one piece when removing it and make it easier if I want to switch back.

 

[Chogokin]

So I'm having some issues with printing.

I'm using Creality's slicer program. My first print is Nat's Cobb bracket...which came out great...but the next one which is the Titan sub...it's coming out a blob. The blob is supposed to the the nose cone. It looks like its printing too small. I want the before...not the after.

Here is another one. This is one of the files that came on the SD card. It looks like the print is not sticking to the bed.

 

[GolNat]

Clean your bed definitely not sticking well. Might need to add a brim if you continue to have problems. Is your first layer going down good? Always a good idea to watch it make sure your adhesion and squish are good.

 

[gixxerfool]

Clean your bed definitely not sticking well. Might need to add a brim if you continue to have problems. Is your first layer going down good? Always a good idea to watch it make sure your adhesion and squish are good.

THIS. I don’t know why I’m yelling.

Is that a PEI build plate? If it is a little ISP with a paper towel should do the trick. If glass remove the plate and use soap and water, dry well. A little glue stick helps too.

What material and temps are you running? All things being equal, if your temp is too low, material won’t stick.

I was fighting with a print the other day only to realize after three failed first layers I sliced in PLA and not the PETG I was using.

 

[Chogokin]

I did use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate...and it still won't stick. The plate is not glass. It has a rough feel to it.

The first layer looks like its sticking ok...but after a few mins...the print will be all over the place. Is it possible that the nozzle is too close and is touching the print...causing it to move?

This is the sub I'm trying to print. None of the pieces are coming out anything close to the pictures. They are coming out as a blob...like hair in the drain.

https://www.printables.com/model/513349-titan-submarine

Is there another program besides Creality's that may work better? The prints look like they are way too small.

 

[GolNat]

Probably textured PEI.

Which way are you orienting the part? You can scale it up to say 150% see how if it helps. If they are tiny parts then you probably need a brim.

I have used Cura and Prusaslicer and prefer Prusaslicer.

 

[gixxerfool]

I did use some isopropyl alcohol to clean the plate...and it still won't stick. The plate is not glass. It has a rough feel to it.

The first layer looks like its sticking ok...but after a few mins...the print will be all over the place. Is it possible that the nozzle is too close and is touching the print...causing it to move?

This is the sub I'm trying to print. None of the pieces are coming out anything close to the pictures. They are coming out as a blob...like hair in the drain.

https://www.printables.com/model/513349-titan-submarine

Is there another program besides Creality's that may work better? The prints look like they are way too small.

What material and temps are you using?

Some prints are just difficult. A raft may be in order, but I would make sure everything else is in order first.

I wouldn’t use anything on a textured PEI plate. Your slicer may give overall different results, but first layer is first layer. That’s other factors. I do prefer prusaslicer.