-3.0* camber too much for daily?

[burgerkong]

More reference pics if anyone wants.

 

[scrllock]

I'm glad I came across this thread ,but its opened up more questions for which are off topic .
I bought a pair of Hardrace LCA's and they look identical to the original Audi TT 8S arms without any AUDI markings .They have solid rubber bushings .As an options you can get them with Pillow Ball bushings

Thanks for this info. I tried reaching out to the hardrace dealer here (Aleks racing?) and he offered zero info or even an invoice after I tried to order some. I was led to believe they were identical to the Golf arms but in aluminum. Glad I never paid for some, heh.

 

[Malttv5]

Thanks for this info. I tried reaching out to the hardrace dealer here (Aleks racing?) and he offered zero info or even an invoice after I tried to order some. I was led to believe they were identical to the Golf arms but in aluminum. Glad I never paid for some, heh.

I'll let you know how I go mate . I'm hoping they are the same dimensions as the R,S3 arms No Track increase .

 

[Malttv5]

Thanks man. Reason I ask is because TT balljoints are designed to mount underneath the balljoint, whereas R/S3/GTI/RS3 is above the balljoint. Hardrace pre-installed the balljoints on top, but you can see the cross hashing on the mounting flange that's supposed to bite into the bottom of the arm, instead of the retaining plate. See Jeff's post up top (https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/3-0-camber-too-much-for-daily.383596/post-7632668).

The Hardrace ball joints look like their own . Thanks for the heads up on fitment .

Maybe I should start a thread on my midlife crisis build and the better half puts it

 

[odessa.filez]

Thanks man. Reason I ask is because TT balljoints are designed to mount underneath the balljoint, whereas R/S3/GTI/RS3 is above the balljoint. Hardrace pre-installed the balljoints on top, but you can see the cross hashing on the mounting flange that's supposed to bite into the bottom of the arm, instead of the retaining plate. See Jeff's post up top (https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/3-0-camber-too-much-for-daily.383596/post-7632668).

so what would be the advantage of mounting below? slightly more wheel clearance? I don't think it changes roll center.

seems like above would improve camber curve.

btw are your ball joints original equipment? they look different from my oem versions.

 

[q74]

I'm musing to myself again, but I pressed in my RS3 bushes only to find out in some market, TT/TTS/TTRS rubber bushes are actually solid vs the mostly solid RS3 bushes. Perhaps different countries have different needs or maybe it's an Audi Sport p/n, who knows.

RS3 bushes: https://www.e-acca.com/search.html?..._search_results_by=final_price&smart_search=1

TT/TTS/TTRS bushes: https://www.e-acca.com/search.html?..._search_results_by=final_price&smart_search=1

View attachment 211229

View attachment 211230

the tts arms I have, have the solid bushes installed. I'll grab the part numbers on them (arms/bushes).

Hahaha I wonder which of two of us will get it installed first . I was orginally hoping to get it on before May but with our current restrictions looks like no track days till June.

 

[burgerkong]

so what would be the advantage of mounting below? slightly more wheel clearance? I don't think it changes roll center.

seems like above would improve camber curve.

btw are your ball joints original equipment? they look different from my oem versions.

I think the roll center would change since the BJ pivot is now below the control arm. The camber curve stays the same since the strike doesn't change - the angle of the control arm isn't what determines the camber curve anyways. I don't really know why TT's mount it from under, and that's all the way from base TT to TTRS. My BJ's are from Mevotech (their Supreme line). Was going to get MOOG, but the Mevotech's had a better corrosion protection. I figured, my arms are already Chinese, no sense in paying for OEM balljoints .

The Hardrace ball joints look like their own . Thanks for the heads up on fitment .

Maybe I should start a thread on my midlife crisis build and the better half puts it

Yeah I'm not certain why Hardrace (and a whole host of others) do it that way, but the hash marks are supposed to prevent the balljoint from sliding around on the control arm after tightening (since they have slots for adjustment). Maybe Hardrace just sourced TT balljoints instead of making a custom balljoint that's top mounted with the hash marks on the correct side, who knows.

the tts arms I have, have the solid bushes installed. I'll grab the part numbers on them (arms/bushes).

Hahaha I wonder which of two of us will get it installed first . I was orginally hoping to get it on before May but with our current restrictions looks like no track days till June.

I'm still waiting on my balljoint bolts, ended up ordering M10x50 endlink bolts instead of the retainer plate since it was $1 a bolt vs $20 for the plate. Oh and $0.60 for each of the nuts. Hopefully the restrictions lift before my DDT day near the end of May haha.

 

[Malttv5]

Yeah I'm not certain why Hardrace (and a whole host of others) do it that way, but the hash marks are supposed to prevent the balljoint from sliding around on the control arm after tightening (since they have slots for adjustment). Maybe Hardrace just sourced TT balljoints instead of making a custom balljoint that's top mounted with the hash marks on the correct side, who knows.

The Hardrace ball joints are knurled on both sides , maybe they just took an Each Way Bet

 

[q74]

<snip>

Here are my findings. They add 1 degree of camber with the ball joints at min camber adjustment at stock height. Caster is hardly changed, in my case I actually lost a bit of caster, but that was from shifting the subframe.

Pre-Install (Stock Height, Stock LCA, GC Plates)
Camber -2.0
Caster 7.6

Post-Install (Stock Height, TTS LCA, GC Plates)
Camber -3.0
Caster 7.0

 

[q74]

<snip>

The solid bushes part number is 8S0407183B

 

[burgerkong]

Here are my findings. They add 1 degree of camber with the ball joints at min camber adjustment at stock height. Caster is hardly changed, in my case I actually lost a bit of caster, but that was from shifting the subframe.

Pre-Install (Stock Height, Stock LCA, GC Plates)
Camber -2.0
Caster 7.6

Post-Install (Stock Height, TTS LCA, GC Plates)
Camber -3.0
Caster 7.0

Oh golly, whereabouts are you located? Would like to see your install haha, I still haven't installed mine, got caught up in moving places and the arms (plus all my tools) are in a storage unit atm haha.

 

[burgerkong]

Finally got my arms and BJ installed. There was no way the ball joints could've fit under the control arm, the actual flange on the arm hits the knuckle before you even can align the holes.

On another note, you can use a bolt instead of the 3 staked studs on the plate cleared the knuckle fine from lock to lock.

Alignment time next!

 

[q74]

Did a track day over weekend, my track wheels now poke a bit at front, but with added camber and current height, they seem to tuck just fine, no noticeable rubbing, even with agressive attacking curbs (so far anyways).

18x9.5 ET45, 255/35 FK510

 

[GTIfan99]

-2.5 is probably optimal for 200tw on track. -3 or more for autocross is common and works well.

I've run -3 on the street and I'm at -2.4 right now with no issues, just be careful with toe.

 

[nono0044]

Finally got my arms and BJ installed. There was no way the ball joints could've fit under the control arm, the actual flange on the arm hits the knuckle before you even can align the holes.

On another note, you can use a bolt instead of the 3 staked studs on the plate cleared the knuckle fine from lock to lock.

Alignment time next!

Hope those ball joints hold their alignment since its smooth on smooth baybe ^>^