Yeah I really don't get it. With simple bolt ons and a tune you're doing 320whp, 8200rpm, 50:50 weight distribution, 388$ per PAIR of two piece replacement rings for stock 4pot 355mm brakes, and the engine and transmission are bullet proof. The fact you can fit 295 and 305 tires under stock fenders is just icing. They're a poor man's Porsche cayman. I loved my z while I owned it. I've owned quite a few cars and driven some super cars (rich friends), and the z was one of the funner cars. You have to really flog it like a momentum car to get the most out of it, though!
No, the bushings melt, but that's a quick swap. The diff itself isn't bad, but isn't amazing either. An upgraded diff is about 1500$ though, and that's a clutch type os giken.
Hah! I test drove both the 350 and the 370Z. One of the best sounding V6’s out there. I’m a huge fan of the BMW straight 6 with the Datsun straight 6 a close second. And think the 240 and 260’s are awesome historic racecars.
You just don’t see that many at DEs.
OSGiken makes some good stuff. I’ve got there LSD in my Mini. Along with clutch and flywheel. It’s a noisy LSD In the parking lot but my car goes where I steer on track.
Yeah I really don't get it. With simple bolt ons and a tune you're doing 320whp, 8200rpm, 50:50 weight distribution, 388$ per PAIR of two piece replacement rings for stock 4pot 355mm brakes, and the engine and transmission are bullet proof. The fact you can fit 295 and 305 tires under stock fenders is just icing. They're a poor man's Porsche cayman. I loved my z while I owned it. I've owned quite a few cars and driven some super cars (rich friends), and the z was one of the funner cars. You have to really flog it like a momentum car to get the most out of it, though!
As it sat ready in track prep, I rolled onto a scale with the front and then the rear to come out with 1960lb front and 1203lb rear, which works out to about 62:38. My method was not the most accurate/scientific but it's what I had available. Corner balance crossweight is nearly 3/4" lower on passenger rear and driver front.
I'm gonna get on the scales in a couple weeks to see. Im gonna guess its not gonna be a whole lot better since the front has the bevel box thing for the drive shaft to connect to. Idk what the rear diff weighs though
Mine was about 60/40 when it was corner balanced, although that includes 200 pounds of ballast to account for yours truly. If you remove the ballast from the front weight only, which is probably not perfectly accurate, then it drops to 57%. Total weight was 3374 not including the ballast, the spacesaver spare that was removed from the car, but including a half tank of gas.
I told the shop to remove the spare. I imagine they left the foam, breakdown tools & scissor jack, and maybe the subwoofer. There weren't any other items in the trunk. The spare is the only truly heavy item back there and it's the only thing I remove when going on track or running an autocross.
Car and Driver magazine's test results for the 2015 Golf R report the weight distribution at 59.5f/40.5r with a curb weight of 3409 pounds. I imagine they weigh the car with whatever would be expected to be in the car when someone buys it.
I told the shop to remove the spare. I imagine they left the foam, breakdown tools & scissor jack, and maybe the subwoofer. There weren't any other items in the trunk. The spare is the only truly heavy item back there and it's the only thing I remove when going on track or running an autocross.
Car and Driver magazine's test results for the 2015 Golf R report the weight distribution at 59.5f/40.5r with a curb weight of 3409 pounds. I imagine they weigh the car with whatever would be expected to be in the car when someone buys it.
You'd have to remove the sub to get to the spare, so I imagine they took it out too. I usually take out everything and fold the rear seats down. I also have dsg and pp that adds some weight forward, then add driver and it makes sense I was close to 62/38.
I pulled my endlinks off to take some pictures for a sample.
As you can see. The contact is light, but any more camber will be an issue. Not SuperPro’s fault. I like their products. This is more an application issues.
Endlinks with heim joints/rod ends will likely provide a much smaller profile.
OK. So my PowerGrid endlinks came in. For those who want more camber, the inner fender comes into play. These are sealed and lubricated. To gain more wiggle room you will need endlinks with heim joints/rod-ends. These have a slimmer profile than SuperPro/ Whiteline ball joints, with and angled chamfer at the back.
Below are some photos. These are 9mm slimmer in profile compared to my current SuperPros. Nothing against SuperPro they make a quality product.
I will be installing my CSS swivels to see what camber I gain for my fall track events. Currently at -2.5, so let’s see where it ends up after the alignment.
I plan to shave my end link tabs to provide some additional wiggle room.
I decided to hold off on the front LCA. I will install over the Winter for the move to slicks. The Verkline has enough adjustment for the inner fender clearance not likely to be an issue. With the forces generated by slicks, having a solid front end will be a big bonus.
I’ve used these PowerGrid endlinks to good effect with my Cooper S for many years. I went with something I know works. I’m still going to trim the fat off the mounting tab. The front shocks are off the car, so now is the time to do it.
. Nutty drive though from kc...