Good to know as I shop around...
So this has got me thinking though, on a $/hp scale - is protuning really "worth" it if judged solely by that metric? Obviously you can't discount the safety factor in having your car tuned to it's specs and parameters, and I'm in no way discrediting protuning as I wholly intend to go this route but, as a thought experiment...
You can catch an OTS tune on sale from EQT right now for, what, $75? I think that's what I read on the thread. A full-on dyno custom tune would be EQT's base price of $500 plus the dyno time, so let's say 4 hours at $125 (split the middle b/w $100 and $150). So $1,000 vs $75, right?
What's the gain there in terms of hp and tq? I honestly have no idea. I'm just a numbers guy and enjoy breaking things down like this. This also doesn't value your time spent going back and forth if doing the etune. So there are other variables at play, but I'm just having fun looking at it from the pure "cash outlaid" standpoint.
I'm still going to shell out the cash just because this is the first car I've ever modded and I really enjoy the process, and I've never "tuned" a car beyond JB4. So I'm looking forward to my badge of honor from getting strapped to the dyno for the first time and getting tuned.
Getting caught up in the #'s game is really moot
@afman916. If can obtain 50-55whp is that worth $1000? If you already have an AP and could do that for just 25% of the cost would it be worth it?
Since this is your first vehicle you are considering tuning - as JB4 is really an OTS, then get custom tuned (Dyno or Street / your choice).
Just do some research with the various Tuners that are available and go ahead and take a look at the HP/TQ claims; to include what power mods are included with each (if any). Those numbers are "guidelines", not absolution.
Also, understand that each tuner's #'s are specific to:
The platform they use (Dyno), the environment, technical savvy, installed parts, and most importantly the health of the entire vehicle.
The benefits of a "street tune / pro-tune" are:
Feedback, Preference (do you want more throttle response down low, less torque down low, even how you prefer the vehicle to behave in the manner you share with the tuner. Yes, this takes a bit more time based on logs as you are walked in - but it can become a tune that suits more of how you drive, rather than a simple mash of the pedal feeling.
If you are aiming for Stage 1 on Pump - you'll just want a high flow drop-in filter (at a minimum).
When opting for an E30 file, you can always not opt for the highest possible power figure - you can just use that as the Ultimate Knock Control (or cooling factor). It will make a difference when IAT gets beyond optimum. If you can hold the positive timing for longer, even when the IAT gets warmer - you will only be that much stronger and safer for it. It is the "Road Less Travelled"
I didn't look back to see if you are M/T or DSG and I would recommend an upgrade for the clutch or opting for the DSG Flash. That is a something to consider if you want reliable delivery & prolonged use.
You will also obtain addt'l safety and smoothness of power delivery if you opt for +1 Colder Plugs.
No need to race to the finish you hope to achieve, it all is really a marathon.
Renovimus
