2.0t HPFP swap on 1.8t

[tigeo]

Yeah we got to a place where he said boost could come down it just wouldn’t meet the potential of the turbo which I’m fine with. Frankly I don’t know if my 1.8 need all that lol

Tuning isn't always about maxing everything but yes...none of the OTS tunes "meet the potential" with stock fuelling on the 1.8 with the 38.

 

[zwalk]

For anyone who is curious, EQT is getting the tables they need from COBB in the near-ish future and should be able to fully tune for the pump.
I got a revision last night and put it on the car this morning. 1st and 2nd feel great, haven't played in third much.

Tuner is going to work with the stock HPFP, if I decide the upgrade is worth it after they get the tables they need we may tune it in.

Expecting a spirited 10pm drive home with some logging Excited to actually be able to drive this thing a little.

 

[zwalk]

https://datazap.me/u/zwalk/3rd-gear-revision-2?log=0&data=8-14

 

[tigeo]

Lots of KR...up to -5. They certainly dialed back the boost...- 22 peak taper to 20. Timing can't advance much with that much KR. Still running pretty rich so clearly still nervous there.

 

[tigeo]

Lots of KR...up to -5. They certainly dialed back the boost...- 22 peak taper to 20. Timing can't advance much with that much KR. Still running pretty rich so clearly still nervous there.

Just based on this log/revision this won't put out as much power as the APR/Uni OTS stuff (more boost/timing, respectively plus a touch leaner) but I also realize you don't have 93 there.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Lots of KR...up to -5. They certainly dialed back the boost...- 22 peak taper to 20. Timing can't advance much with that much KR. Still running pretty rich so clearly still nervous there.

It looks like it's just cylinder 1. I'd check for things rattling on the block, check the plugs, etc. They really don't need to run the car that rich. It could actually be causing the knocking too. It's really rich, there is like no timing in there, and not a lot of boost. I really think your car should be able to run at least 5 degrees of advance by 6000 and maybe up to 7 degrees by 6700.

 

[tigeo]

It looks like it's just cylinder 1. I'd check for things rattling on the block, check the plugs, etc. They really don't need to run the car that rich. It could actually be causing the knocking too. It's really rich, there is like no timing in there, and not a lot of boost. I really think your car should be able to run at least 5 degrees of advance by 6000 and maybe up to 7 degrees by 6700.

100% - it's a bit strange to have it that rich with mild boost and no timing. Agree on one cylinder being the issue...normally when it's tune/fuel it's multiple cylinders.

 

[zwalk]

It looks like it's just cylinder 1. I'd check for things rattling on the block, check the plugs, etc. They really don't need to run the car that rich. It could actually be causing the knocking too. It's really rich, there is like no timing in there, and not a lot of boost. I really think your car should be able to run at least 5 degrees of advance by 6000 and maybe up to 7 degrees by 6700.

Pretty sure my downpipe catalyst is loose, apparently that could contribute. Plugs less than a week old

 

[ZuMBLe]

Pretty sure my downpipe catalyst is loose, apparently that could contribute. Plugs less than a week old

Tighten that up. Hardware problems make tuning a car a nightmare. It will frustrate the tuner, and in the end, just screw you over.

 

[zwalk]

Tighten that up. Hardware problems make tuning a car a nightmare. It will frustrate the tuner, and in the end, just screw you over.

Yeah I mean I can’t, it’s an internal issue. I didn’t know it was causing problems until today. Will require a new pipe. I actually didn’t even know it was happening until installer said he couldn’t see the cat cause it had moved

 

[ZuMBLe]

Yeah I mean I can’t, it’s an internal issue. I didn’t know it was causing problems until today. Will require a new pipe. I actually didn’t even know it was happening until installer said he couldn’t see the cat cause it had moved

Ohh.. I thought you meant your cat that bolts on to the DP is loose. Yea, that's a problem.

 

[zwalk]

Ohh.. I thought you meant your cat that bolts on to the DP is loose. Yea, that's a problem.

Local guy will swap my GSW OEM DP for his OEM Golf R one, might just do that.

I didn’t know it would actually be an issue it seemed to be running fine, can hear it a little on cold start that’s it.

People talk about cat breakup as “well you’re catless now” seems a little more involved lol

 

[ZuMBLe]

You'll need a reducer for the Golf R pipe if you still have the stock cat back.

 

[zwalk]

You'll need a reducer for the Golf R pipe if you still have the stock cat back.

Yeah I have one on the IE as is. Assuming I’ll need a different Od

 

[zwalk]

You'll need a reducer for the Golf R pipe if you still have the stock cat back.

Think I’d see much power loss? Probably not too much I’d think