Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
ah thought you meant like a deadset kit or something.
The mount is the same, but there are two type of Dogbone insert based on the mounts. More than likely you had version 1 and this is version 2 or vice versa.I currently have the PF hybrid puck in my stock steel subframe, but I bought an Audi aluminum one from a crashed A3 to upgrade. It has a different dogbone mount, so I have to move to a different solution. I'll probably be doing that whole front end swap before I get engine/trans mounts, because I have half the parts for it already.
Correct. The bushing shape is different, so I can't move my current hybrid puck over. I was just exploring the options and seeing if I could lower the NVH of the hybrid puck with a different mount. Otherwise, I like the PF puck.The mount is the same, but there are two type of Dogbone insert based on the mounts. More than likely you had version 1 and this is version 2 or vice versa.
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The one case the “sheered” wasn’t even able to confirm that his bolts didn’t back out… in reality I’m sure that’s how his case broke cause the arm was now able to slide on them bolts and act as a slide hammer.I get you. I'm not against trying this thing, but these aftermarket parts don't get much testing, especially with all the different combinations of mounts, power levels, tires, etc. My concern is that the upgraded engine/trans mounts are helping control the transaxle movement and preventing the type of twisting forces that could cause the case to sheer.
Thanks. That's the setup I'd like to get to, but I'll probably do the PF puck, arm, and subframe before I get the BFI mounts.
Are there install instructions for the Roc-Euro arm? Mine didn't come with any, and I didn't see them on the product page. Mostly looking at things like torque spec\loc-tite stuff, since the actual install is pretty straight forward.
If anything it's the stock bushings themselves that should be replaced. They get tore up something fierce, especially with road crap that gets in between the bushing and the insert, slowly chewing it up.Has anyone ever removed these poly dogbone inserts after 50k+ miles? I’m curious if they hold up or should be replaced periodically.
When installed mine the bar came with new hardware and I also used BlueLoctite along with safety wire to be safe. Checked the bolts after a few hundred miles and after an oil changed and the torque marks were still lined up. I am running this with BFI Stage 1 engine and transmission mounts and the PowerFlex hybrid puck. It’s an excellent combo.That's easy enough. Did you use loctite because you reused the bolts or that was with new ones + loctite? Also, is this with stock engine/trans mounts or upgraded? Sorry it's a lot of questions, but an $80 part's potential to cause a several thousand dollar repair is stressful. That's why I asked if people had experience with arms that have a bearing and if they had a similar effect with the PF puck.
The one case the “sheered” wasn’t even able to confirm that his bolts didn’t back out… in reality I’m sure that’s how his case broke cause the arm was now able to slide on them bolts and act as a slide hammer.
The rock euo arm does indeed flex and bend during the twisted forces that you were concerned of though.
I’ve run this arm with 2 different types of pucks and with both the full bfi billet mounts and some velt (o34/cts) stock style mounts with rubber with sticky 200 treadwear 265/35 tires. And have yet to be a dog wagon scenarios.
Thanks for the impressions. I think I'll probably give the RocEuro arm + PF hybrid a try when it comes time to change my subframe. I almost never launch my car anyway.When installed mine the bar came with new hardware and I also used BlueLoctite along with safety wire to be safe. Checked the bolts after a few hundred miles and after an oil changed and the torque marks were still lined up. I am running this with BFI Stage 1 engine and transmission mounts and the PowerFlex hybrid puck. It’s an excellent combo.
Definitely loctite. Changed an LSD because a loose trans bolt diagnosed as bad LSD. Definitely felt like it.We installed it ourselves and put the correct bolts into the correct spots (sorta critical) and also used blue loctite on the 2 trans bolts.