What's the final word on the Dogbone mount

[scrllock]

When Unitronic? Any info you can steer me to?

no clue. they've teased it a few times recently, along with things like off the shelf powermax/flex fuel tunes ala IE. maybe by end of the year? similar style to the ECE mount

 

[mk6'12gti]

Looks like Revo updated there torque mount with a plate like the inserts... The ones I saw that were falling apart didnt have this plate.

 

[GoatAutomotive]

I’ll play in case it helps someone along:
APR billet steel insert MQB

APR billet steel insert. Shinier than iron man’s suit. Zero NVH impact. Not soft aluminum like the 034 version that many people complained about (due to unexpected failures).

Bought mine new for $70 back in early 2018. Love it.

Even at stock power (220ish whp, 260wtq), my engine rock was horrific. It made the DSG shifts feel poor and jerky. But if I held it in gear and got on and off the throttle, I could tell it was actually the engine and the crappy mounts.

I did that and the K&N drop-in panel filter with some airbox modifications.

Best $120 I spent on the car. It felt smoother and stronger in every situation.

 

[GoatAutomotive]

“…you know you want to hit that. You know you want to hit that, hit that!” -Dexter Holland

 

[GoatAutomotive]

“Fill your hole like a real man. Demand shiny steel.”

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

I recently bought an Audi Alu subframe, so it's time to revisit this topic. I currently have a PF hybrid puck, street durometer, and the vibes with the DSG are not great. Sometimes it's completely livable, but I noticed the longer you drive, the worse it gets, esp with the AC on. I wonder if it is heat related. Reverse plus the AC actually caused my passengers to ask why it seemed like my car was going to stall from the shaking.

I see people pairing it with the Roc Euro arm. I plan to do BFI stg 1 mounts eventually, but right now I'm stock, so I don't love having the trans case hard mounted to the subframe bushing. Can the vibrations be toned down with other upgraded arms, like APR or 034? Another option I'm considering, is the full 034 Arm + Upper + Lower Insert. Thoughts and suggestions?

 

[Daily Driver]

I recently bought an Audi Alu subframe, so it's time to revisit this topic. I currently have a PF hybrid puck, street durometer, and the vibes with the DSG are not great. Sometimes it's completely livable, but I noticed the longer you drive, the worse it gets, esp with the AC on. I wonder if it is heat related. Reverse plus the AC actually caused my passengers to ask why it seemed like my car was going to stall from the shaking.

I see people pairing it with the Roc Euro arm. I plan to do BFI stg 1 mounts eventually, but right now I'm stock, so I don't love having the trans case hard mounted to the subframe bushing. Can the vibrations be toned down with other upgraded arms, like APR or 034? Another option I'm considering, is the full 034 Arm + Upper + Lower Insert. Thoughts and suggestions?

When did you install the Hybrid Puck? How many miles have you put on it?

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

When did you install the Hybrid Puck? How many miles have you put on it?

~12k mi. Plenty long enough for it to fully break in. It is much better than it was fresh, don't get me wrong, but the reverse + AC shudder just doesn't go away on DSG cars I don't think. If a different arm could reduce that shudder just a notch, that'd be enough and I'd go with it again for the new subframe.

Can someone explain what exactly people now are doing differently to the two others who broke their trans cases with the Roc Euro arm?

 

[Diggs24]

We installed it ourselves and put the correct bolts into the correct spots (sorta critical) and also used blue loctite on the 2 trans bolts.

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

We installed it ourselves and put the correct bolts into the correct spots (sorta critical) and also used blue loctite on the 2 trans bolts.

That's easy enough. Did you use loctite because you reused the bolts or that was with new ones + loctite? Also, is this with stock engine/trans mounts or upgraded? Sorry it's a lot of questions, but an $80 part's potential to cause a several thousand dollar repair is stressful. That's why I asked if people had experience with arms that have a bearing and if they had a similar effect with the PF puck.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

We installed it ourselves and put the correct bolts into the correct spots (sorta critical) and also used blue loctite on the 2 trans bolts.

Yup… also it was one case that broke and 1 to 2 others who caught their bolts backing out.

Just got a really good pitchfork response and made a great showing.


It’s like a smaller scale of the crank walk epidemic… crazy how when that was getting all its steam it’s was to a point of “if you have a dkm you’re 100% going to get it” To now with these cars being even older, having more miles and more people modding them to only hearing lots of talk about crankwalk when someone makes a thread “hey I read about this crank walk epidemic”

 

[Diggs24]

That's easy enough. Did you use loctite because you reused the bolts or that was with new ones + loctite? Also, is this with stock engine/trans mounts or upgraded? Sorry it's a lot of questions, but an $80 part's potential to cause a several thousand dollar repair is stressful. That's why I asked if people had experience with arms that have a bearing and if they had a similar effect with the PF puck.

I used locite because roc euro says to. They provide the bolts.
I have a powerflex hybrid puck + BFI stage 1 mounts.

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

Yup… also it was one case that broke and 1 to 2 others who caught their bolts backing out.

Just got a really good pitchfork response and made a great showing.


It’s like a smaller scale of the crank walk epidemic… crazy how when that was getting all its steam it’s was to a point of “if you have a dkm you’re 100% going to get it” To now with these cars being even older, having more miles and more people modding them to only hearing lots of talk about crankwalk when someone makes a thread “hey I read about this crank walk epidemic”

I get you. I'm not against trying this thing, but these aftermarket parts don't get much testing, especially with all the different combinations of mounts, power levels, tires, etc. My concern is that the upgraded engine/trans mounts are helping control the transaxle movement and preventing the type of twisting forces that could cause the case to sheer.

I used locite because roc euro says to. They provide the bolts.
I have a powerflex hybrid puck + BFI stage 1 mounts.

Thanks. That's the setup I'd like to get to, but I'll probably do the PF puck, arm, and subframe before I get the BFI mounts.

 

[Diggs24]

subframe for what?

 

[Mr. Conundrum]

subframe for what?

I currently have the PF hybrid puck in my stock steel subframe, but I bought an Audi aluminum one from a crashed A3 to upgrade. It has a different dogbone mount shape, so I have to move to a different solution. I'll probably be doing that whole front end swap before I get engine/trans mounts, because I have half the parts for it already.