If you ordered the Racingline ones I would love to hear your thoughts on them and pictures when you have them installed. They are the only other paddles I would consider trying after going through all this S2T bull crap.
So I got the paddles in yesterday and installed them. They are not very heavy at all, and feel very solid in hand. I'll get a picture up this weekend, but wanted to note a few things. The Racingline paddles are definitely CNC'd and not machined by hand, so there should not be a single discrepancy between one product and another. On the inside of the paddle where it faces the steering wheel, the CNC routing tip left behind a circular pattern that's visible through the finish, but this doesn't exist anywhere else. The reach, for me, is perfect, and I can shift with any part of the paddle, except for the very inside edge of the bottom. This is a tiny are though, and based on the shape of the paddle, I'd be amazed if anyone ever tried to shift from there. My typical hand position at 9.5 and 2.5 lends itself to a very easy shift.
You lose the light up function of the stock paddles. If it was me, and I was selling a 250$ product, I'd try to find a way to incorporate it. I mean, it's literally just an LED on the back of the wheel, a mirror in the paddle, and a semi-translucent plastic on the stock paddle...not hard to replicate. However, the cutouts for the + and - are rather generous, and you can easily tell what they are at night (hard to confuse this anyway...).
One note for anyone installing any full replacement paddle! DO NOT LOSE THE STUPID PIN! Use needle nose vice grips if you can to pull this sucker out, because my pliers slipped in hand, and I lost the pin for 2 hours! After having an "oh crap" moment and not being able to find the pin for sale on it's own anywhere, I realized the stock paddle assembly comes as a whole unit, for 180$. Luckily my wife was helping me out, listening to my sailor talk, and came up with the idea to use a blow gun with my air compressor to blow it out of the passenger seat (wherever it was stuck). This does, however bring up another thought though; I'm considering buying the paddle assembly on its own, fitting stronger springs, a mechanical actuation switch, and some more robust parts to give the paddles a more "mechanical" feel, closer to what a real paddle feels like.