iNeedMorePSI
Ready to race!
- Location
- 0 to 100 real quick
I think those are still Littco CHRA/bearings/wheels and they do their own housing machining.
7
Performance rebuild on IS20
- Thread starter Oldschoolmk7
- Start date
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
MK7PR has one from CT.
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Ramon64124
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Kansas
Just 2. LITTCO has slowly been trying to fade.
iNeedMorePSI
Ready to race!
- Location
- 0 to 100 real quick
He'd probably prefer to deal with more shops than direct with customer but he is still churning some out here and there. Quality > Quantity. [emoji23]
Ramon64124
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- Kansas
What's funny? I was simply calling it how I see it. Quality was never in question in the post simply asking who was still selling Hybrid IS20s...
Good For him. I bet it is less stressful.
iNeedMorePSI
Ready to race!
- Location
- 0 to 100 real quick
Also Revolution Turbo in Ocala Florida is another one. Though a lot of people/shops buy Dan's/Littco wheels and bearings and perform their own assembly, rotary balance, and machining. Or they will have them assembled by Littco and balanced on VSR by Dan and they handle housing machining.
If anyone wants something from Littco let me know, I will contact him and set something up and then you 2 can talk afterwards.
If anyone wants something from Littco let me know, I will contact him and set something up and then you 2 can talk afterwards.
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
Options are always good!
I know there is a lot of hate/fear about GPOP, but the 1 of 1 hybrid they've done (as far as I know, I'm still the only one) is working fine.
MK7PR's first iteration of the hybrid from CT blew - shaft exploded and he lost the exhaust wheel - found it somewhere near the catback IIRC.
Littco blew a bunch of turbos initially, though that seems to have quieted down - volume-related, or reliability-related? Who knows.
GPOP have blown a number of stock IS38's, which are prone to failure to begin with. Reliability mods (oil passage) have not proven to be the fix.
There's no 'safe' option when it comes to hybrids, or really any OEM-based turbo. It's all a big lottery. My Rev T IS20 had some stupid boost runs and it is rock solid. The Rev G hybrid is also rock solid. Buy a Garret if you want something reliable out of the box, but be ready to spend the money.
iNeedMorePSI
Ready to race!
- Location
- 0 to 100 real quick
2 out of 7 (prototype) Littcos blew. The rest are running. 0 of the revised production have popped. My 1 of 1 LTC550BB prototype ceramic dbb conversion has 1800 miles on it at 28psi up top.
Not a lottery like others.
Not a lottery like others.
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
2 out of 7 (prototype) Littcos blew. The rest are running. 0 of the revised production have popped. My 1 of 1 LTC550BB prototype ceramic dbb conversion has 1800 miles on it at 28psi up top.
Not a lottery like others.
Please dyno that already.... you must be making a stupid amount of power.
I'll respectfully disagree regarding the lottery comment. 1 of 1 holding good power isn't enough of a sample set to determine if it is stable. It is, however, holding impressive boost through the RPM range
iNeedMorePSI
Ready to race!
- Location
- 0 to 100 real quick
At this point I'm just sending engine every day. At 29psi on stock IS20 I did over 425wtq. So on this turbo I have to be doing ~450-460wtq. Max 28.5 spool is in 500rpm during WOT in 4th by 3300-3400rpmPlease dyno that already.... you must be making a stupid amount of power.
I'll respectfully disagree regarding the lottery comment. 1 of 1 holding good power isn't enough of a sample set to determine if it is stable. It is, however, holding impressive boost through the RPM range
Also there are many other Littco turbos that hold to redline at 26-27psi not just mine. Thus far I have gone to 7200rpm with it and maxed out the LPFP. WGDC is at 37 so I got a good 17% to go to still be "safe".
I've recommended to Dan to not even offer JB anymore and just do CDBB hybrid on everything in the 1600 price range because it is life and runs cooler than jb variants.
jybyrd
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Seattle, WA
I've been doing some boost-centric testing in the top end - it is doing just fine, based on the actuator readings:
https://datazap.me/u/jybyrd4606/is38-01-9028-27-tpr-4th-gear?log=2&data=1-4-6-7-17-18-19-20-21
I know the timing is low... ignore that for now. Trying to dial in the boost before monkeying with timing. It is carrying 23/24psi all the way through the RPM range. I'm going to bump it up again to 25psi target and see how that works out.
This is pretty close to the max redline boost I will run on the hybrid. On track to dyno by the end of the month.
Is anyone considering this path, and wanting more peak boost than 25psi? I'm willing to jack it up to about 27psi target and run a few logs, but won't do it if there isn't any interest.
https://datazap.me/u/jybyrd4606/is38-01-9028-27-tpr-4th-gear?log=2&data=1-4-6-7-17-18-19-20-21
I know the timing is low... ignore that for now. Trying to dial in the boost before monkeying with timing. It is carrying 23/24psi all the way through the RPM range. I'm going to bump it up again to 25psi target and see how that works out.
This is pretty close to the max redline boost I will run on the hybrid. On track to dyno by the end of the month.
Is anyone considering this path, and wanting more peak boost than 25psi? I'm willing to jack it up to about 27psi target and run a few logs, but won't do it if there isn't any interest.