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Anybody have any experience with this brake kit?

yirayira

yirayira

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Chicago, IL
Car(s)
2015 GTI SE
Plain Centric high carbon cryo treated rotors held up well over the course of 8 track days and 20k miles. Zimmerman blanks replaced these last weekend. The BMW club racers swear by their cheap German rotors so I'll give them a try

The PCA tech mentioned slotted rotors will begin to show their benefit during hour 2 of an endurance race. So that excluded everyone I know with a VW
 
D

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia
AspektZA said:
You may notice that will not ever see drilled AND slotted rotors on performance vehicles like M3s or whatever.


Even on racing cars you only see slots, if anything.



Stoptech/Hawk/etc. sell those to forum users who don't know any better, and the companies who retail them are happy to pay their Chinese CNC operators and extra $0.50 to drill holes and charge you an extra $100.


If you want performance rotors, get slots only.


Drilled & slotted perform 0.0% better than an OE Zimmermann/Textar set.


Don't say I didn't warn you when your drilled & slotted rotors crack from heat cycling.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78wbht355R8
Click to expand...
Now you changed the argument to drilled & slotted rotors.

With carbon-ceramic rotors, you don't see slotted rotors, you see drilled rotors.

The F90 M3 gets drilled rotors, with or without the ceramic rotor option.

Slotted rotors are also less expensive to manufacture than drilling them, which also requires chamfering each hole. Slots just requires milling.

You're not going to see rotor cracking on the street, unless you really ride your brakes on the street.
 
M

ManInTheClouds

Ready to race!
Location
OK
DiscusInferno said:
Now you changed the argument to drilled & slotted rotors.

With carbon-ceramic rotors, you don't see slotted rotors, you see drilled rotors.

The F90 M3 gets drilled rotors, with or without the ceramic rotor option.

Slotted rotors are also less expensive to manufacture than drilling them, which also requires chamfering each hole. Slots just requires milling.

You're not going to see rotor cracking on the street, unless you really ride your brakes on the street.
Click to expand...


I don't think I ever changed arguments, my first post says pick one or the other - not both.


Notice how the M3 brakes are only drilled, but not also slotted?


Also, holes are not drilled - they're molded in when the rotor is cast.
There may be a finishing operation or two though.



That said, OE BMW drilled rotors are going to be miles ahead of generic Stoptech/Hawk/etc. rotors in terms of hole placement and quality.
 
S

sean.mason.75873

Banned
DiscusInferno said:
Now you changed the argument to drilled & slotted rotors.



With carbon-ceramic rotors, you don't see slotted rotors, you see drilled rotors.



The F90 M3 gets drilled rotors, with or without the ceramic rotor option.



Slotted rotors are also less expensive to manufacture than drilling them, which also requires chamfering each hole. Slots just requires milling.



You're not going to see rotor cracking on the street, unless you really ride your brakes on the street.
Click to expand...
You aren't going to see the benefit of any brake rotor on the street. You could put a $1400 dollar set of two piece full on competition rotors on your car and it won't stop any better on the street.

So again, like everyone has said, drilling is eye candy and hasn't been needed in performance application for 20 years. Modem epoxies that are used in modern pad compounds don't off gas.

Slotted rotors on the street can add some weird braking noises, but under street use, don't stop your car faster. They have some use in the racing world based on application.

Stop trying to put a square peg through a round hole. This is all well known information.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
eajr

eajr

Go Kart Champion
Location
Chicago, IL
sean.mason.75873 said:
You aren't going to see the benefit of any brake rotor on the street. You could put a $1400 dollar set of two piece full on competition rotors on your car and it won't stop any better on the street.

So again, like everyone has said, drilling is eye candy and hasn't been needed in performance application for 20 years. Modem epoxies that are used in modern pad compounds don't off gas.

Slotted rotors on the street can add some weird braking noises, but under street use, don't stop your car faster. They have some use in the racing world based on application.

Stop trying to put a square peg through a round hole. This is all well known information.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

What is your setup?:confused:
 
M

mike-y

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Los Angeles
Car(s)
2017 GTI / 2016 R
Formula 1 cars use plain disks. if the highest tech and fastest race cars in the world aren't using slotted, nor drilled rotors, there is probably a reason. the solid rotors are more durable in extreme conditions.

back when I was a regular track rat, everyone I knew that tracked their car with aftermarket drilled rotors eventually cracked them, and went back to solid rotors.
 
S

sean.mason.75873

Banned
eajr said:
What is your setup?:confused:
Click to expand...
I just bought a 19 Rabbit and ran it stock at Daytona, but I took it easy, was on stock tires, and Daytona is pretty easy on brakes, which all lead to the brakes holding up well, but with past cars, I follow the same recipe. DTC60 front, DTC 30 rear, SRF fluid, ducting. It isn't rocket science.

With the Mk7, my plan is as above, with GT3 ducts, Macan front calipers(just to make swapping pads easier) , and get some titanium spacers cut. I'll use cheap blank rotors. Pads and rotors are consumables. Unless you are sponsored or race for a living, you want the best value that gets the job done.

Also, tires and track play a massive role in braking requirements. Since I'm staying with 200tw tires and not R comps, I can get away without going too crazy.


https://youtu.be/2q6KhnqUb2s
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
eajr

eajr

Go Kart Champion
Location
Chicago, IL
sean.mason.75873 said:
I just bought a 19 Rabbit and ran it stock at Daytona, but I took it easy, was on stock tires, and Daytona is pretty easy on brakes, which all lead to the brakes holding up well, but with past cars, I follow the same recipe. DTC60 front, DTC 30 rear, SRF fluid, ducting. It isn't rocket science.

With the Mk7, my plan is as above, with GT3 ducts, Macan front calipers(just to make swapping pads easier) , and get some titanium spacers cut. I'll use cheap blank rotors. Pads and rotors are consumables. Unless you are sponsored or race for a living, you want the best value that gets the job done.

Also, tires and track play a massive role in braking requirements. Since I'm staying with 200tw tires and not R comps, I can get away without going too crazy.

https://youtu.be/2q6KhnqUb2s
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Just watched your youtube video, looks awesome wish I could go out to Daytona! What power mods are you looking to do?
 
S

sean.mason.75873

Banned
eajr said:
Just watched your youtube video, looks awesome wish I could go out to Daytona! What power mods are you looking to do?
Click to expand...
Stg 1 protune, IE intercooler, remove snow grate on intake and drop in dry filter, intake plumbing, oil cooler and maybe radiator if I can find on that fits stock location and cools better. But I can't do anything until VW figures out the timing issue with 2019 manuals.

Suspension will be standard stuff, ohlin coil overs, camber plates or control arms up front depending on clearance with 18 x 9 with 265mm Hankook RS4's.

Right now I just have a 26mm rear sway bar and a separate set of wheels with 245 mm RE71R's for autocross. Believe it or not, tires, aggressive alignment and a rear sway are the biggest bang for your buck handling wise. My car was 3rd fastest raw time out of 60 cars at last autocross. It's amazing how fast these things are. The only cars faster that day were a GTR and a GT4. My little rabbit outran Camaro SS'a, Corvettes, Miatas, an A mod car, an M2 comp, and a bunch of other fast cars.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 
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D

DarkArrow

Drag Racing Champion
Location
OC
Car(s)
'18 R
DiscusInferno said:
You're not going to see rotor cracking on the street, unless you really ride your brakes on the street.
Click to expand...

There are morons braking on rotors that have worn to the vanes, and STILL don't notice a difference. You're not going to notice any difference between any 2 rotors on the street, other than a placebo effect.

sean.mason.75873 said:
You aren't going to see the benefit of any brake rotor on the street. You could put a $1400 dollar set of two piece full on competition rotors on your car and it won't stop any better on the street.

So again, like everyone has said, drilling is eye candy and hasn't been needed in performance application for 20 years. Modem epoxies that are used in modern pad compounds don't off gas.
Click to expand...

The braking would probably be worse on the street, since that $1400 dollar set would probably have high performance pads that won't stop when cold :p

I 100% agree that drilling, and dare I even say slotted, are old technology that with today's technology, is purely for aesthetics. Almost every race car I see has either blank or J-hook rotors. This ranges from F1 to Indy to LeMans to BTCC to WRC.

99.999% of VW drivers would benefit more from buying blank rotors and spending the money saved on seat time.
 
yirayira

yirayira

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Chicago, IL
Car(s)
2015 GTI SE
sean.mason.75873 said:
I just bought a 19 Rabbit and ran it stock at Daytona, but I took it easy, was on stock tires, and Daytona is pretty easy on brakes, which all lead to the brakes holding up well, but with past cars, I follow the same recipe. DTC60 front, DTC 30 rear, SRF fluid, ducting. It isn't rocket science.

With the Mk7, my plan is as above, with GT3 ducts, Macan front calipers(just to make swapping pads easier) , and get some titanium spacers cut. I'll use cheap blank rotors. Pads and rotors are consumables. Unless you are sponsored or race for a living, you want the best value that gets the job done.

Also, tires and track play a massive role in braking requirements. Since I'm staying with 200tw tires and not R comps, I can get away without going too crazy.


https://youtu.be/2q6KhnqUb2s
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

sean.mason.75873 said:
...but with past cars, I follow the same recipe. DTC60 front, DTC 30 rear, SRF fluid, ducting. It isn't rocket science.
Click to expand...

I've run this exact setup with success. Just wish the DTC pads weren't painted since it melts and oozes
 
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