Front tweeter wiring

Took apart the rear door this afternoon for additional info.

Found the funny business.



Speaker wire comes into the door and splits. Tweeter gets unmodified signal. Midrange gets signal fed through a pair of these things.

This has to be what's adjusting down to 4 ohms. The speakers are in-fact wired parallel.

I have no idea where these resistors are for the fronts. Hopefully they aren't messing with the midrange output though.

I'm not sure quite how Ohm's Law applies when you're talking about two different drivers. If you look at a typical woofer impedance curve it usually goes up quite a bit from nominal as the frequency goes up (and the tweeter starts taking over). And the tweeter has a cap to boost impedance in the lower frequencies that it can't handle. So maybe that's just a splice? I'll be interested to see when I take my back doors apart....

How do you like the Focals?

pheavey70 said:

I'm not sure quite how Ohm's Law applies when you're talking about two different drivers. If you look at a typical woofer impedance curve it usually goes up quite a bit from nominal as the frequency goes up (and the tweeter starts taking over). And the tweeter has a cap to boost impedance in the lower frequencies that it can't handle. So maybe that's just a splice? I'll be interested to see when I take my back doors apart....

How do you like the Focals?

Click to expand...

I am assuming it's more than a splice, as there's something gold inside. Doesn't look like a standard resistor. And, whatever it is, it's making two 4 ohm loads into one. There's one on each splice joint, and the input side is attached to the tweeter, then the mid is on the output side. That seems important, rather than just having the input side come to the joint, then two outs (mid and tweeter).

Focals are really nice. I have a little more tweaking to do to dial them in. The increase in sensitivity and the sound deadening I added to the front doors both add, significantly, to the clarity. Tweeters aren't deafeningly bright, which is awesome. I didn't have to attenuate them yet, but I might eventually.

Totally worth the price, IMHO.

nkresho said:

Took apart the rear door this afternoon for additional info.

Found the funny business.



Speaker wire comes into the door and splits. Tweeter gets unmodified signal. Midrange gets signal fed through a pair of these things.

This has to be what's adjusting down to 4 ohms. The speakers are in-fact wired parallel.

I have no idea where these resistors are for the fronts. Hopefully they aren't messing with the midrange output though.

Click to expand...

That's very interesting. Makes me want to find a way to run new wires to the doors now.

nkresho said:

Took apart the rear door this afternoon for additional info.

Found the funny business.



Speaker wire comes into the door and splits. Tweeter gets unmodified signal. Midrange gets signal fed through a pair of these things.

This has to be what's adjusting down to 4 ohms. The speakers are in-fact wired parallel.

I have no idea where these resistors are for the fronts. Hopefully they aren't messing with the midrange output though.

Click to expand...

Hello, I’m confused, does this mean that front speaker wire comes into the door, then splits and from there the tweeter wire goes back through the door to the A pillar? Or does the tweeter wire split before passing into the door.

In other words, can a passive crossover be placed in the door panel? or does it have to be in the dash

Thanks

requiem said:

Hello, I’m confused, does this mean that front speaker wire comes into the door, then splits and from there the tweeter wire goes back through the door to the A pillar? Or does the tweeter wire split before passing into the door.

In other words, can a passive crossover be placed in the door panel? or does it have to be in the dash

Thanks

Click to expand...

I think these are pictures of the rear doors, so a passive crossover would be fine, just have to make/find space in the door.

It looks like your question is about the front doors, a question I also have. I'm interested in knowing whether the head unit is seeing a 2 or 4 ohm load. From what I've read in various threads both the mids and tweeters are labeled 4 ohm. Typically this would suggest either a 2 or 8 ohm load to the head unit but as was posted, there seems to be some funny business going on with the wiring.

A follow up question would be whether the stock unit is capable of driving any other load besides whatever the stock speakers present.

I intend to treat my door panels in the next couple weeks and will post my findings here if no one chimes in before.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

I never did figure out what the inline component was. Maybe a cap, maybe a resistor. They do appear to be a bit more than just funky looking crimp connectors, allowing the wiring to Y to both speakers. Both the stock tweeters and mids have their own crossover built into them. So an additional inline may be completely unnecessary. It was wrapped it that yellowish, rubbery, thick heatshrink-type tubing. I bypassed the rear ones and never located the fronts. I left the stock tweeter wiring in place, disconnected, and ran new wiring from the front crossovers to the tweeters, using the stock wires that passed through the door to the mids. I assume the split was somewhere between the head unit and the tweeter. Only one pair of wires go into the door.

Frequency response is the same on fronts and rears, so I assume the "crossover" or whatever that inline thing is, is in the tweeter wiring up front.

Based on my pic above, they appear to be wired in parallel, in the back doors, which would have lead me to believe it's seeing 8 ohms at the stock amp (glovebox unit). Both the tweeter and the mid share one on both positive and negative wires. But the head unit actually sees 4 ohms and speakers are 4 ohms each.

That looks like a conventional wire to wire splice. Typically a passive component would be located in a plastic connector if some sort to prevent damage. The tubing is to provide strain relief and isolation. If there is a component under that tubing, I'd be very interested to see that more closely...

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

I have an aftermarket HU, so I'd rather run everything to it & not bring over the amp (although I can if necessary).








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