Which clutch on FWD 1.8 with IS38?

[MonkeyMD]

What clutch to go with for 1.8 fwd with IS38 and potentially stacking jb4 with e30?

Searched a little bit and have seen only 2 examples of 1.8 fwd going is38 or similar. One had SBC stage 3 endurance and 1 had stage 2 endurance with no issues.

Price difference is negligible.

Key thing for me is drivability. This is my daily and occasional stop and go traffic. Is there a significant difference between stage 2 & 3 and Daily vs Endurance.

Also, would stage 2 hold up to stack of I go that route?


Funny thing is I just realized how much driver makes a difference. Clutch had been fine. No slipping at all. Had a buddy drive my car and just from driving style (no blipping throttle on downshift, taking too long to release clutch) I knew I was going to need a clutch soon. Didn't realize it was the next day

 

[ZuMBLe]

Not much to add, but I have a Sachs 4 Puck and the pedal is HEAVY. It's comical how much heavier it is than stock. You'll likely have a hard time initially with any upgraded clutch, but you will get used to it. I drive mine in NYC traffic. It's absolutely exhausting after you're done, but you likely won't notice it too much while you're in traffic.

 

[MonkeyMD]

You're so strong, but your left leg is much stronger than your right.


I don't think that clutch is an option for the 5spd. Only SBC and used to be House of Dub, but I don't think they offer their's anymore

 

[ZuMBLe]

Yea, pretty sure the saches are not an option fo rthe 5 speeds. Point is, get ready to work that left leg no matter what you go with. You'll get used to it

 

[MeltedSolid]

I had the southbend stage 2 endurance clutch, and it was extremely dailyable (I could hardly even tell the difference from the stock clutch). However, a worthwhile thing to note, that stage 2 endurance clutch held more than my transmission, it's what I blew up 3rd gear on, and I wasn't even close to the limits of the clutch. It doesn't make sense to get a very agressive (or very expensive) clutch with the 5 speed because the limit of the transmission is really only a bit higher than the limit of the stock clutch.

 

[MonkeyMD]

That's the feedback I was looking for. I'll probably go for same.

I guess in reality it would be better to have a clutch that slips a little to protect transmission

Or just go straight to a gti transmission instead of doing clutch, lsd now and then having to get new clutch and lsd for gti transmission after blowing the 5spd.

Or maybe shot peening the 5spd gears

So many options/problems etc

 

[Ironshade]

I have a used southbend stage 2 endurance for sale.. 100$+ shipping 65k miles. Order a new disc and some flywheel bolts and you got an upgrade for under 250$

 

[Ironshade]

Also to note... i think one of the main reasons 5mt we’re breaking is because of flex in gears mount on case. Which there is a brace for.

 

[MonkeyMD]

I have a used southbend stage 2 endurance for sale.. 100$+ shipping 65k miles. Order a new disc and some flywheel bolts and you got an upgrade for under 250$

Not bad, but don't know if I want to pay for 6 hours of labor for a used clutch. That being said, what disc and flywheel bolts? And wouldn't you need a new flywheel as well?

Also to note... i think one of the main reasons 5mt we’re breaking is because of flex in gears mount on case. Which there is a brace for.

Is this actually available and if so, do you have a link

 

[Ironshade]

Not bad, but don't know if I want to pay for 6 hours of labor for a used clutch. That being said, what disc and flywheel bolts? And wouldn't you need a new flywheel as well?




Is this actually available and if so, do you have a link

Flywheel and pressure plate is in great condition. Just need a new clutch disc and flywheel bolts. I believe a new clutch disk is ($115$) flywheel bolts (15$?) and throw out bearing (40$).

https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1049

 

[MonkeyMD]

Flywheel and pressure plate is in great condition. Just need a new clutch disc and flywheel bolts. I believe a new clutch disk is ($115$) flywheel bolts (15$?) and throw out bearing (40$).

https://usrallyteam.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1049

I think I'd rather get new with something with so much labor involved.


That being said, weird thing happened and didn't want to stay a new thread.

Drove the car easily next day and day after started driving normally again i.e. Aggressively. Then I did some pulls in 3rd and 4th and been driving normally since then and clutch has been holding fine including some hard launches. No other changes. Trap speed is still showing about 110 (per Torque), so power is the same

Can a slipping clutch start to not slip?