What's "normal" for a VW 6mt

[swifty1]

When I first got my 17 GTi 6mt PP, I was completely new to driving stick. My car was used with 14k on the ODO. I noticed soon that my transmission was sometimes difficult to get from N-1. If I am stopped at a light, it can be difficult the first time but if I then go back out of gear and then back in, it slides in just fine. Also, if I'm moving any faster than 3mph, I have to rev-match it to go from N-1 or 2-1.

At first, I thought this was normal for VW transmissions and I heard they can be kinda sloppy. I now have a DieselGeek short shifter, super pin, 034 bushings, SS clutch line, DKM stage 2 clutch, literally everything you can do. The shifts are now super crisp and short, but I'm still experiencing some resistance going into 1st gear. I replaced the transmission fluid for thicker stuff, and the fluid that came out of my transmission was concerningly reflective.

Now, especially when its cold out, I'm starting to get some (only a little) resistance/grinding into 2nd.

My conclusion is either that:
1. the precious owner and I were not nice to my 1-2 synchro, and now its going out
2. the synchro was defective, which would normally be covered under warranty, but because I'm modded, it wont.
3. its just a VW doing VW things

Any advice or opinions would be helpful. I could also mention that my Stage 2 DMK Clutch rattles like a tractor around town.

 

[PRRGG1]

Others here know a lot more than I do, but the choice of fluid can make a significant difference in low gear/slow speed shifts, especially in cold weather when the vehicle is first started and gets underway. I've owned two vehicles from different manufacturers (neither VW) where the consensus was to stick with the OEM fluid, as no others seemed to work as well.

Be sure too that if your '17 requires a GL-4 fluid, to NOT go with a GL-5. GL-5s contain synthetics which are unkind to soft metals in GL-4-engineered gearboxes. I stupidly did just that in a Mitsu and the grinding in low gears was almost instantly evident.

 

[swifty1]

I believe I used the Redline MT-90 75W90

 

[PRRGG1]

I believe I used the Redline MT-90 75W90

I'd think you'd be okay with that. Redline shows that their MT-90 is "safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage".

 

[1ashchuckton]

I'd drain the fluid & inspect with a magnet to see how much metal if any you can fish out. I've used MT-90 in my old MINI. It cured the cold weather balkiness.

Edit..... I used Redline MTL not MT-90.

 

[clarence35]

MT90 is way thicker than OEM VW trans fluid and will take a long while to get up to temperature so some resistance when cold is normal. Do you notice any grinding at all into 2nd when the transmission is up to temp, esp in spirited driving? If it's good when warm, but you don't like the resistance when cold, there are other quality thinner fluids you can use such as OEM VW or Redline MTL, among others. The other (free) thing I'd try is a shifter cable alignment before you do anything further.

BTW, I drove an '08 GTI for 13 years since new and just replaced it with a '17 GTI with 55k mi, both of them liked a rev-match to easily go into first gear at speed although they will go in relatively smoothly with a bit more force even if you don't match revs. That's pretty normal behavior for any manual transmission. But if it's at all difficult to go from N to 1st at a dead stop, to me that suggests a sticking clutch or shifter misalignment.

 

[Ghulfer]

Hopefully you are not putting your car from either neutral or 2nd into 1st gear until you’re at a complete stop? It’s never a good idea and it can really wear out the synchros if youre putting your car into 1st gear until you are at least going slower than 5 mph, or even better, when you are completely stopped.

Driving with your hand on the shift lever, or your foot resting (even touching) on the clutch - these are also no-no’s for a manual.

 

[swifty1]

Hopefully you are not putting your car from either neutral or 2nd into 1st gear until you’re at a complete stop? It’s never a good idea and it can really wear out the synchros if youre putting your car into 1st gear until you are at least going slower than 5 mph, or even better, when you are completely stopped.

Driving with your hand on the shift lever, or your foot resting (even touching) on the clutch - these are also no-no’s for a manual.

Correct, Im only trying for 1st when Im going too slow for 2nd, like rolling up to a stop sign or red light or creeping forward at 2-4 mph

 

[Ghulfer]

Correct, Im only trying for 1st when Im going too slow for 2nd, like rolling up to a stop sign or red light or creeping forward at 2-4 mph

Gotcha - when I read that you were rev-matching into 1st I cringed. But now I re-read it and you’re saying you HAVE to rev-match in order to get into gear.

 

[Ghulfer]

Correct, Im only trying for 1st when Im going too slow for 2nd, like rolling up to a stop sign or red light or creeping forward at 2-4 mph

This is not a normal experience with a stock clutch or transmission, at all. You have many different components that all have collectively made your shifting require a little bit more oomph.

It is probably a waste or time going to a dealer requesting a service on a modified trans. You’re right. Unless you have a great relationship with a specific one.

I would say avoid hard 1-2 shifts and downshifting into 2nd. Make it last.

 

[swifty1]

This is not a normal experience with a stock clutch or transmission, at all. You have many different components that all have collectively made your shifting require a little bit more oomph.

It is probably a waste or time going to a dealer requesting a service on a modified trans. You’re right. Unless you have a great relationship with a specific one.

I would say avoid hard 1-2 shifts and downshifting into 2nd. Make it last.

Yep, as long as its just an little inconvenience , I'm gonna drive it till it blows or I can afford an FFE trans

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

i was chasing the same issue with mine after i installed the sigma... i though it was my synchro also cause the only way i could get it in smooth for 1-2 was to double clutch the car, but in the end for me it turned out to be the side to side gate adjustment with the sigma you really have to have that setting perfect, have someone go in the car and move the shifter from 1-2nd with the car off - if you see and vertical movement of the sector you need to adjust you cables, even the front to back can actually affect the height some due to the forward cable creating some leverage.

 

[russiankid]

General rule of thumb is you should only use 1st to get going and that is it, once you're in motion you shouldn't need 1st. I know it can be a bit difficult with the MK7 gearing to do that, my MK7 sometimes does exhibit the behavior you have going into 1st, but when it does that I don't force it and just go into 2nd.

 

[golfdave]

The main reason why people have problems is all because VW chose to make the mech in the cabin (the bit under the gearstick) ALL plastic when it was all metal in the Mk6 & older...Because there is so much slop in the main pivot pin it causes bad positioning even when locked for a cable alignment.

The OP says he has fitted a DG superpin...which gets rid of the majority of the slop in this mech...I would recommend that they have another go at doing the cable aligment....it took me several goes to get mine spot on...


I would also recommend the OP do the DG delrin shaft bushes....which also took slop out..

 

[clarence35]

I would recommend that they have another go at doing the cable aligment....it took me several goes to get mine spot on...

I agree the alignment becomes more sensitive when you install a SS because the shift effort increases and the easy stock shifter can mask poor alignment to some degree.

One thing I noticed when doing my shifter alignment was when putting it into first gear, the shift knob can slide over slightly left or right after getting in gear if it's not perfectly aligned. I ended up dialing it in with the locking pin and then further adjusting it one thread at a time on the cable until it felt perfect. Took about 3 or 4 adjustments. Also agree that a front to back cable adjustment that's too short can result in more shift effort.