They tested it under load, after the test it read at 12.47V, so it dropped about .01V after the test. I don't think itd be a bad starter since im not getting any codes from the ecm, only about the ABS control module. When I get home Ill just give the contacts a good scrubbing just in case
I’m not a huge fan of the testers they use. They aren’t true carbon pile testers and can sometimes lead to false results and will end up leaving you stranded. I recently did a DSG service and when while setting up VCDS my battery puked. It was fine 5 minutes prior. So there are instances where the batteries can die very quickly and you’ll never see it.
But I can't start the car is the thing, they've been testing just the battery this whole time, I can go get a brand new battery, just to rule that out, and I checked the connections, they are about as clean as they can be
At this point, im just gonna bite the bullet and get a new battery, worst comes to worst at least I know its not the battery
When mine crapped out I was miffed as I just got the car. I realized it was the original battery from 2015, so I was ok after that. 3 years is average for a battery, anything above that is doing well
I changed out the battery, got a H6 instead of an H5 and it has 730 CCA instead of 650, but car still wont start. Its still giving me the same errors as before "Electronic Stability Control (ESC)" "Tire pressure monitoring system" and I have the stability control light, engine light, EPC light, it has a steering wheel with an exclamation point next to it, and the TPMS system light. So I dont think it was the battery, but for giggles Im gonna run the obd2 again, see if i pull anything different
Some of Those set because of the battery disconnect. Easy fix. When you get the car started turn the wheel all the way to the left and then all the way to the right and then back to center, it will take care of the stability light. TPMS just needs to be set through the radio.
The invalid data received and Bus code he is getting makes me think he has lost comm with the ECM. He said there are no codes, but is it there is no comm? Some of the more generic scanners report stuff weird and no comm can look like no codes. A ground seems pretty likely, but I would expect many more low voltage codes or even high voltage codes as well with a loose ground.
Checked all the fuses, nothing popped, thankfully, got the other lights turned off after turning wheel, lock to lock, EPC and Engine light are still on, I think my scanner can connect to the ecm, but im not sure how to tell. Cleared the codes, and scanned again and didnt get any codes. But car just doesnt wanna start. I attached a screenshot of the codes i got before I cleared them
The CEL will be on in a key on engine off scenario. That is normal. As for comm with the ECM, depending on the scanner, see if it reports back as no codes or if it just doesnt show up. Unfortunately, each vehicle manufacturer and scanner will treat a no comm situation a little different. Some will ignore the module and report nothing, easy to miss. Some will display it retrieved no codes and others yet will be more symptomatic with a major module be off the bus. Make sure your ECM connections are tight as well.
I can go ahead and get a higher end scanner from autozone, there are about 6 or 7 stores where I'm at, so I'm sure one of them will have a scanner that properly connects to the ecm. I only spent $60 on this scanner, and autozone's return policy is pretty good, so I'll see if I can't get a more specified one. The ECM connections I reseated them just to be sure, I'm still getting 0 DTC codes from the scanner, so after clearing them, the scanner is just getting no codes at all.
Then most likely your ECM is fine. The problem is elsewhere. Silly question, have you checked the battery in the remote?