tigeo
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Richmond, VA area
I have the Tyrolsport one. That's the extent of my contribution to this thread.
FWIW I haven't confirmed the cause yet, but I've been getting popping sounds from the subframe area (not endlinks) with low-speed maneuvers. Next time the subframe comes out I probably need to inspect the CTS collars.Resurrecting a 5-month old thread:
In my head I thought I would just go with the Ali-Zhong-Ping-Pong collars and send it. Then I encountered this issue:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832823653270.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.17.603f2b25fGighg&algo_pvid=015771fe-39ff-45d0-ae64-a0c25033bbbb&algo_exp_id=015771fe-39ff-45d0-ae64-a0c25033bbbb-8&pdp_npi=3@dis!USD!33.0!33.0!!!!!@21021d7b16814737884672078d06d0!67166220178!sea!US!0&curPageLogUid=hyDL4ZIWYLPB
"Item no longer available."
OK, let's keep looking on Ali. I then found other Zhong retailers on there have weird shipping policies where they want you to order in bulk, but they don't specify if it's for individual collars, or complete kits. Lots of "Engrish" in the descriptions on there. Given the sketch nature, I will pay a little more and buy locally.
Anyway, thank you to everyone who contributed to this discussion.
I'm gonna roll the dice and buy the CTS kit that's currently on sale. Might even teach myself some Mandarin so I can hum a tune and throw out some swear words during the install.
I would LOVE the TyrolSport kit, but $300 is steep when the core value of these kits is the stamped collars that center the subframe.
That's all I got. You can count on me to post a nice review with photos after.
Please do, I'm thinking subframe collars when I take everything down to do the FSB anyway, and if there's some "while I'm in there" to be accomplished, it seems like it'd be wise to do so.I found a solid solution. I will do a full write-up on how it goes. Shipping is gonna take forever. But it gives me more time to procrastinate an install...
Honestly I wish I done this before given how much I’ve done to the car, and how I drive it. TyrolSport was great to work with my phone, but they could not get a kit to me in time when I needed it: they were missing some parts on back order.Please do, I'm thinking subframe collars when I take everything down to do the FSB anyway, and if there's some "while I'm in there" to be accomplished, it seems like it'd be wise to do so.
See, I keep getting in a loop on that end -- I'd like to do the FSB to match the RSB, and if the subframe is gonna come down at all I'd prefer to just do the collars/bushings while I'm in there, but that 'while I'm in there' pretty rapidly turns into big numbers to get LCAs, Audi subframe, and inevitably all sorts of other stuff and it winds up being WAY more racecar than I really intended. It's just hard to know where to draw the line.Honestly I wish I done this before given how much I’ve done to the car, and how I drive it. TyrolSport was great to work with my phone, but they could not get a kit to me in time when I needed it: they were missing some parts on back order.
I am frothing at the mouth while I wait for these parts to arrive so I can finish up the front end. Driving the car on stock control arms with stock bushings makes it feel like an old Toyota Corolla.
No precision or confidence from the front end.
Racecar is dropping 3 grand on an expensive, noisy, tubular and ultra-adjustable front-end. Get a sway bar, aluminum subframe from a rear-end collision, and a set of cheap collars. You have an MT car right? LCAs and dogbone bushings don't require dropping the subframe, do those another time.See, I keep getting in a loop on that end -- I'd like to do the FSB to match the RSB, and if the subframe is gonna come down at all I'd prefer to just do the collars/bushings while I'm in there, but that 'while I'm in there' pretty rapidly turns into big numbers to get LCAs, Audi subframe, and inevitably all sorts of other stuff and it winds up being WAY more racecar than I really intended. It's just hard to know where to draw the line.
Fair. When I looked up aluminum subframes it was like $800+, which steered me away -- I think I'm going to tackle the collars and FSB first, and then see how I feel about it/what else I want to address. I'll have to keep an eye out though for subframes available used/on a budget.Racecar is dropping 3 grand on an expensive, noisy, tubular and ultra-adjustable front-end. Get a sway bar, aluminum subframe from a rear-end collision, and a set of cheap collars. You have an MT car right? LCAs and dogbone bushings don't require dropping the subframe, do those another time.
Your head and your heart are in the right place.Fair. When I looked up aluminum subframes it was like $800+, which steered me away -- I think I'm going to tackle the collars and FSB first, and then see how I feel about it/what else I want to address. I'll have to keep an eye out though for subframes available used/on a budget.