joema2
Ready to race!
- Location
- Nashville, TN
- Car(s)
- 2010 Golf GTI 6MT
There is wisdom behind that. I learned it when I got my Focus ST back in '13. Due to the new methods and "fineness" of the honing in the cylinders of a fresh, high-output, new generation engine, I researched about it in depth and found one overwhelming conclusion....
The conclusion was that the new honing patterns respond better to the "drive it like you stole it" method of break in. You still need to keep the RPM's varied and not steady during break-in, as well as not redlining it heavily, but drive the car the way you intend to from the beginning.
The reasoning is that breaking in this new way helps to seat the rings better against the tighter honing patterns, helping the car not burn oil as bad and keeping compression better.
There is some evidence to support this. The book "Sportbike Performance Handbook" had photomicrographs showing the new finer finish on cylinder walls and pistons. It said:
"Thirty years go, piston rings were less well-finished, and the cylinder wall had to be used as a file to shave them into intimate contact. This was the function of the old, relatively coarse, 60-degree crosshatch honing pattern used as a cylinder wall finish. This degree of roughness was essential to remove the necessary metal from the rings to make the seal."
"Today, the standard wall finish is...called a plateau finish. The cylinder is first coarse-honed, then finished with either a much finer hone or a plateau brush. This leaves the cylinder wall as a series of smooth-surfaced islands, surrounded by the deeper incissions left by the coarse hone. The incissions limit how far any scuffing -- smearing of metal -- can go, and they also serve to retain oil."
"Sensible instructions for breaking in call for...frequent applications of full throttle acceleration, but without holding high rpms or load for long periods. Between throttle applications, the engine oil system can carry away wear particles to the filter, and excess heat developed in areas contact has time to diffuse."
"Engines today are so well manufactured, with such good surface finishes, that it takes real power to push the smooth parts through the separating oil-and-additive film, into the partial contact that is necessary to achieving a final, high-quality fit."
However I wouldn't tell people to do this on their new car unless they are comfortable with it.
That said, my sportbike was broken in on the dyno and it ran great and never used a drop of oil. It was uncrated, assembled, and pushed from the showroom floor to the dyno, strapped down, and the first 250 miles were on the dyno -- frequently but intermittently at full throttle. Some exotic cars are broken in this way on the dyno or on the racetrack -- by the manufacturer.
Personally I'd recommend changing the oil early the 1st time. The factory fill oil on my Mk7 GTI was professionally analyzed and the engineer said it needed changing at 3,000 miles. My car is APR stage 1 so maybe that's a factor.