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AWD and various other malfunctions

Wastegate13

Autocross Champion
Location
SoFla
Finally took the golf to a shop. Found out the transfer case was the main issue. I didn't know the main gear was pressed onto a shaft with no key so over time they can slip on the shaft. Getting a reconditioned S3 transfer case installed along with some basic maintenance stuff. Will post an update once the repairs are complete.
I believe I’m chasing the same issue. Massive wheel spin using launch control but no malfunction codes. I’m gonna get it on a lift tomorrow to investigate. By chance did you ever notice any sort of gear noise or whine?
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
I believe I’m chasing the same issue. Massive wheel spin using launch control but no malfunction codes. I’m gonna get it on a lift tomorrow to investigate. By chance did you ever notice any sort of gear noise or whine?
Pull the pump and check to see if the screen is clogged.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
I installed a new right rear wheel speed sensor and cleared codes. No change. I noted I had pending faults for steering clock spring and evap control valve. The only other issue is the exhaust valves (connectors damaged).

I still don't understand why the PWM signal going to the Haldex controller would work normally for 0.25 seconds then go to 0% I guess I'll correct the clock spring and evap valve, and crimp in replacement exhaust valve connectors ... then hope someone hits and totals the car. Being FWD sucks.
I'm no expert but I know the AWD works with the wheels turned, because I had the wheels turned before making a turn under full power and only got a chirp from the wheels. I think that means the wheel position sensor didn't need to be working for the Haldex to kick in. I'll see if I can find out. I'm not familiar with your slipping gear condition, but perhaps it could explain why the Haldex cuts out after .25 second. And I replace the left front wheel when the car was fairly new. It was either the sensor or the connector, both were replaced. I don't know if that affected the AWD, because the signal was intermittent. That, with the car going into limp mode and starting in second gear until I got up to about 35 MPH or so, meant there was no way to tell because the car barely had enough power to move let alone spin the front wheels.
 

Wastegate13

Autocross Champion
Location
SoFla
Pull the pump and check to see if the screen is clogged.
I change the haldex fluid every 15k. Last service was after problems started, fluid wasn’t dirty and there was barely anything on the screen.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Jist an FYI, most of the gears are probably press fit, but my "expert" thinks being tuned could contribute to slippage.
 

Mk7noob85

New member
Location
FL
I believe I’m chasing the same issue. Massive wheel spin using launch control but no malfunction codes. I’m gonna get it on a lift tomorrow to investigate. By chance did you ever notice any sort of gear noise or whine?
I noticed I was getting a bit of wheel hop that seemed to get worse over a few months. The only sound I noticed was a "bad bearing" kinda like a rubbing sound in 5th gear specifically, quieter in 6th. No sound in 4th. I can stay at the same speed and shift from 4th to 5th and it only makes the sound shifting to and while in 5th.

I thought this was most likely a bearing in the trans, but the shop said it was directly related to the transfer box failing. I havent picked the golf up yet, but I will confirm once I drive it home.
 

Mk7noob85

New member
Location
FL
Jist an FYI, most of the gears are probably press fit, but my "expert" thinks being tuned could contribute to slippage.
I would agree. I know some builds make more torque and take some abuse but I'm sure over time this was a contributing factor.
 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
Have you checked your cv axles? Minor play can lead to "confusion" for the system where it thinks it's slipping and isn't. I had this issue on a subaru and a bmw. The symptoms are often "everything is fine and drives normally until a slip condition, and then the car becomes 1wd." aftermarket axles or poor realignment of the axle at the diff flange can be the culprits.
 

Ferdi_7r

New member
Location
France
Car(s)
Golf 7.5 R
Good morning. I have the same problem. Loss of 4wd, vcds haldex pump fault. new haldex pump buy from Volkswagen new oil. vcds basic setting "finished, time out." not active" I have a noise in the front left when you start driving, but I can't tell where this noise is coming from. no play in the front axle. when I put the car on jack, the front wheels turn quickly, and the rear very slowly, if I touch the rear wheel it stops, if I let go and turn but very slowly
 

Mk7noob85

New member
Location
FL
Quick update, Sorry for not responding or updating. I sold my Mustang and took the Golf to the same shop I had flash the tune 2.5 years earlier. I asked for a laundry list of things to be looked at, then went out of town for a few weeks for work.

The shop diagnosed the loss of AWD as a faulty transfer/bevel box. They replaced with a used S3 unit.
Other work included a DSG fluid flush, motor mounts, Cam cover oil seal leak, Haldex fluid flush and new pump (even though I specified I had already done this twice), they took my golf to the local dealership to have the new pump coded (I assume a learn cycle?), and completed an oil change.

They did not address my requests for the faulty exhaust flap motor connectors, the driveshaft dampener, the Infotainment swap (currently displays 'offroad' and I wanted 'performance' gauges) or the bearing noise in the transmission.

I picked up my golf, we discussed what work had been completed. I received a discount because I paid in cash, and total OTD $5400.

It was pouring rain on the drive home so I just drove cautiously and parked it for a few days. Finally a good weather day arrived and I went for a drive. I gave it some throttle in sport mode and noticed a bit of traction control light flashing. Thinking it was cold tires I drove a bit more to warm them up. I disabled traction control, and stability control, used both feet to take a screenshot and when the revs stabilized at 5k I side stepped the brake. it pulled hard for 10ft then AGRESSIVE wheel hop.

I was crushed. I called the shop and explained what had happened. They told me that these cars always slip a little and to leave traction control on. They said they would warranty the transfer box but I would need to cover labor for replacement.

Broke, angry, and defeated I drove around in fwd for about 10 months. I finally scraped some money together and found a sketchy looking site (Automotix) with equal parts 5-star and 1-star reviews that listed a few transfer boxes (no pics) for MK7R. I read a few of the one star reviews and it seemed like most of the issues were around shipping delays and trying to return items that the buyer ordered incorrectly. Of the 4-5 I picked the lowest mileage box and paid $350 plus $180 freight shipping. I asked if I could just pick it up as it was listed as 90mi away but was told that wasn't possible. Alcohol and depression helped me click "buy now". The part arrived at my office 3 days later and the S&R guy sent me a picture as I was out of town. I immediately thought there was a problem as the only exposed part showed a hacked pipe sticking out of the wrapping.

Once I actually saw the part in person i found that it was the rear driveshaft flange where they had cut the driveshaft instead of unbolting it. I took a weekend and watched a few Humble mechanic vids, along with some other pics and posts. aside from the two top bolts being absolutely impossible to see and taking about 60min to get started the process was somewhat easy.

After almost two years I have an AWD Golf R again. I have not launched it yet, but aggressive acceleration, going full throttle while in motion and general lack of torque steer tells me everything is back. No wheel spin or TC light.


Summery, I trusted the shop and employees I worked with originally. I should have run away when management and employees changed at that shop. I now have an old transfer case that failed. A friend has a bridgeport mill at his house and we are going to attempt to slot and key the ring gear to the shaft. if that isn't possible we'll weld it and then I'll have a backup for when the installed transfer case fails.
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Who needs a warranty. I appreciate the help. Have you had a similar issue?
I had a intermittent LF wheel speed sensor or the connector or wiring fail. That's most likely why your dash lit up. If you're usng VCDS it should have pinpointed which wheel speed sensor is bad. The dealer replaced the connector housing and sensor, never had an issue in 7 years. I didn't push it to see if the AWD was affected. There are a number of posts about failed AWD, but I cannot remember what the issues were. You already replaced the pump, so it's unlikely the screen is clogged. What did VCDS show, if you have use it?
 

The Fed

Old Guys Rule
Location
Florida
Good morning. I have the same problem. Loss of 4wd, vcds haldex pump fault. new haldex pump buy from Volkswagen new oil. vcds basic setting "finished, time out." not active" I have a noise in the front left when you start driving, but I can't tell where this noise is coming from. no play in the front axle. when I put the car on jack, the front wheels turn quickly, and the rear very slowly, if I touch the rear wheel it stops, if I let go and turn but very slowly
The rear wheels turning slowly could be normal, there's still a little power going to them.
 
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