Cuzoe
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Los Angeles
Just search "this thread" for Motegi. You don't have to do anything with the rears unless you want to. Most people only upgrade front brakes.
I just reused the oem shield. Bent it back slightly and it's been holding up perfectly.Is the dust shield for a 312mm rotor large enough to protect ball joint and other parts from the hot brake dust?
I want to avoid damage the rubber parts.
So you have any pictures of how the rotor fitted relative to the shield.I just reused the oem shield. Bent it back slightly and it's been holding up perfectly.
So you have any pictures of how the rotor fitted relative to the shield.
I'm worried about running a shield that can't protection the rubber parts from hot brake dust.
Interesting on the Prodigywerks calipers. I've emailed them about rebuild kits but never heard back. I just know their 4 piston 312 setup uses 2000 mercedes s class w220 pads.Spent the last several days reading the entire thread. Some questions and an observation.
There was some talk about the Prodigywerks calipers. I was very close to pulling the trigger on those but then considered what would happen if I lost a pin or needed to rebuild them. I was informed that any parts would need to be sourced through them. That was a nonstarter for me. Something to keep in mind if you're considering them.
On to the topic at hand. Full disclosure. I have an Alltrack and I'm doing this primarily for looks and something to do. This car will never see a track only spirted street driving. Flame away.
This will be the first time I crack the lines going to the calipers. I've never even bled my own brakes before, just had it done at the dealer. I'm buying the recommended Motive Power Bleeder, and also read a few mentions about cycling the ABS pump but was told on a FB group that "a lot can go wrong". Is there risk involved when doing that? Is it totally necessary?
I plan on leaving the color as is but might paint them later on using the G2 kit. I was thinking of painting them the same color as the silver cladding on my Alltrack. Not too keen on taking them apart to powder coat.
I see that some people were turned off by the RPV's, so I will not be doing those.
Do the pistons need to be removed when applying the Red Rubber Grease? Is there a guide somewhere? A video perhaps? Again, I've never messed with them before and don't want to screw something up.
What is the procedure for changing the pads? What tool is required to compress the pistons? Is that even necessary on these calipers?
There's roughly two years of posts here. Would anyone do anything differently after living with them for a bit?
Thanks..
Interesting on the Prodigywerks calipers. I've emailed them about rebuild kits but never heard back. I just know their 4 piston 312 setup uses 2000 mercedes s class w220 pads.
I believe it's best to use the red grease as assembly lube, but I believe @GTIfan99 said it can also be applied to the sides where it contacts the seals.
Any pad style spreading tool should work. A ratcheting one is the style I like. I have one like this guy.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai...X3AhWGD0QIHRL0C_4Qwg8oAHoECAEQGw&dct=1&adurl=
Might want look for a set with a larger pad included if you want to use on 6 pot or other cars with larger brakes.
https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/ratcheting-disc-brake-piston-spreader-tool
Did you get the motive black label with the aluminum cap? You'll need 2 bar or 30 PSI to bleed the ABS module.
I can send you the 1.8T erwin pre bleed, standard bleed, and if needed post bleed procedures if you'd like.
I'm looking at the NQSBBK with Porsche 986 calipers and the stock 312mm rotors. Isn't bolt on as it requires mounting brackets and banjo bolts.
I have these on a GSW. They are a bolt on affair. Buy a set of pads with strong bite. The Centric Posi Quiets I’m running are cheap and don’t dust at all but aren’t exactly confidence inspiring. I probably still have some air in my lines though, they need to be bled correctly otherwise the initial pedal travel will be mushy (mine is). I did not do RPV or RRG, but did all the OBD11 stuff. They look great and work just fine for my daily driving needs.
Would you say you got used to the pedal feel? My huge concern is letting my wife or daughter drive the car and have them panic if they feel something is wrong with the brakes.
I don't regret the Brembo upgrade but in hindsight I should have stuck with my PP's. I initially did not do the RRG and bled them several times. Brakes had a mush but I got used to it. 2 weeks later I took apart brakes replaced seals and applied RRG. It improved slightly. Im thinking there's still air in lines and will continue bleed later.Spent the last several days reading the entire thread. Some questions and an observation.
There was some talk about the Prodigywerks calipers. I was very close to pulling the trigger on those but then considered what would happen if I lost a pin or needed to rebuild them. I was informed that any parts would need to be sourced through them. That was a nonstarter for me. Something to keep in mind if you're considering them.
On to the topic at hand. Full disclosure. I have an Alltrack and I'm doing this primarily for looks and something to do. This car will never see a track only spirted street driving. Flame away.
This will be the first time I crack the lines going to the calipers. I've never even bled my own brakes before, just had it done at the dealer. I'm buying the recommended Motive Power Bleeder, and also read a few mentions about cycling the ABS pump but was told on a FB group that "a lot can go wrong". Is there risk involved when doing that? Is it totally necessary?
I plan on leaving the color as is but might paint them later on using the G2 kit. I was thinking of painting them the same color as the silver cladding on my Alltrack. Not too keen on taking them apart to powder coat.
I see that some people were turned off by the RPV's, so I will not be doing those.
Do the pistons need to be removed when applying the Red Rubber Grease? Is there a guide somewhere? A video perhaps? Again, I've never messed with them before and don't want to screw something up.
What is the procedure for changing the pads? What tool is required to compress the pistons? Is that even necessary on these calipers?
There's roughly two years of posts here. Would anyone do anything differently after living with them for a bit?
Thanks..
The biggest issue is when you have to press on brakes quickly. The dead space or lack of quick bite will make your heart drop the first time you need to stop quickly.