Where's the sweet spot?

[AERO]

Where's the sweet spot on performance vs. reliability?

I'm curious where you guys think the reasonable, somewhat reliable performance level is on these motors? Specifically, I have a 2019 GLI (identical to the GTI engine)

Before anyone says "keep it stock" or "I have a 450hp EQT Vortex on E30 and I'm fine!".... I know. I know a stock motor can fail. I know a stage 1 motor can fail and I know that theres more than a few 400+ HP cars that seem to just keep on rocking.

I want to try and find a consensus on where the healthy balance is.
I have been building my car for the dual purpose of Daily Driver and track day car. I have been running 5 or 6 track days per year. Currently I'm APR stage 2 Low Tq with a Unitronic Intercooler. I went low tq because im in Colorado and have 18% lower air density here. APR told me on the phone they recommended the low tq file because with the thin air, the turbo will spin higher rpms to hit boost targets and it may hit turbo rpm shaft limits trying to hit the high tq boost targets. Also, being a car that I use for road course driving, I figured the lower output file might give me a bit more reliability on a long, hard track day.

Considering what I'm looking for out of the car, would you guys recommend I stick with the power I have or get an is38 and get the cheap ($250) APR is38 tune?

Any input is appreciated. I know big turbos are out there, I know more powerful tunes are out there, but I'm trying to find a balance between power and hopefully not blowing up anything. I'm ok with some amount of risk for sure. I blow the motor, I won't go homeless. Thanks guys! Picture for no reason at all

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

Stock Golf R power. 280-300WHP/WTQ.

Past that you’re pushing the platform farther than it is “designed” to go on any of VAG’s MQB offerings. So, I would say the sweet spot is 300WHP. That’s the sweet spot in general - 300 WHP is enough to lose your license if you get too carried away too often. Past that you’re reducing reliability.

That said - the blocks themselves are good to 400 reliable horsepower

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

I’m going IS20 DP IC Stage 2 on my Alltrack when my warranty is up, the aim is 280-300AWHP. I want my car to last 10+ years

 

[Dog Dad Wagon]

GLI looks great btw

 

[Keehs360]

I’m in Colorado too. The apr is38 requires a downpipe swap. And they shut off the secondary sensors. As a result you won’t pass emissions at air care so you’ll have to swap to the stock dp every two years.

currently I have the low tq apr stage 1 + dsg tune. Intake. Muffler delete. And I dyno’d 280whp and 320wtq. That’s super low for an apr stage 1. But that’s just the elevation, boost doesn’t do well here as you’ve probably noticed.

I’d argue stage 1 with fbo would be more reliable than stage 2 with fbo. Only because stage 2’s boost spikes super gnarly at our elevation. Plus the whole boost mapping till about 5500rpm is crazy.

is20 here in Denver has to spool at 27-28psi just so we can see 24-25psi. Effectively it’s as if stage 2 overworks our turbo a bit when at wot.

 

[riceburner]

600 tq on stock clutch and SEND IT BUD!

 

[Jovian]

I think a stage 1 tune is pretty safe. Have had most of my cars tuned with various turbo upgrades and such. You dont end up changing much to support it and the power level gains are still very noticeable.

With the current MK7 GTI I went with Cobb tuned by EQT and have profiles for both Stage1 91 and Stage1 E30 that I flip between when I feel like it. Currently at 105k with no issues related to tunes.

With these cars the most important things is sticking to the maintenance schedule and if tuned think about doing 5k oil changes as insurance.

 

[mopar22]

stage 1/2 e30 tune is teh furthest i'd push for reliabilty. 93 for even safer since e can be very hit or miss

 

[StockblockGLI]

Stage 1 for me but that is not because I worry that the engine can't handle it, it is just that the FWD can barely handle stock power levels, even with proper tires. So I would say APR plus is just about the sweet spot for these cars or a mild custom tune. COBB with custom EQT or APR and call it a day.

 

[GTI Jake]

98,800 miles on my APR is38 car, issue free.

I purchased the car new in December 2015, and tuned almost immediately. It was stage 2 most of its life.

 

[Hoon]

IS38 on E30.

I regret everything I did after that.

 

[AERO]

Thanks for the input everyone.

The real decision I'm trying to make is stick with my current setup ( APR stage 2) or get an is38 and do the APR is38 tune. That's the real question!

 

[Escape Hatch]

Thanks for the input everyone.

The real decision I'm trying to make is stick with my current setup ( APR stage 2) or get an is38 and do the APR is38 tune. That's the real question!

Depends on what spring mods you have.

 

[StockblockGLI]

Thanks for the input everyone.

The real decision I'm trying to make is stick with my current setup ( APR stage 2) or get an is38 and do the APR is38 tune. That's the real question!

I say don't do it. Enjoy this car for what it is. You will never be able to put that power down.

 

[Keehs360]

Thanks for the input everyone.

The real decision I'm trying to make is stick with my current setup ( APR stage 2) or get an is38 and do the APR is38 tune. That's the real question!

I think the extra 500rpm’s worth of lag that you’ll get from an is38 will help tremendously on track. Iirc you’ll need a new downpipe. That apr is38 tune won’t play nice with 2 cats. It won’t pass emissions either