gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
Seriously, the APR downpipe took me 20 minutes to install and does not leak, after having 3 downpipes fitted it was the only one without any issues.
7
Downpipe install Now exhaust leak
- Thread starter Ace92028
- Start date
I've read that about using foil, does it matter if it's aluminum foil or tin foil? Probably put that under my new clamp once it comes in
GLoBaLReBeL
Ready to race!
- Location
- South Bend, IN
Don't think it matters.
0bLiViOuS
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Orange County
That would drive me nuts
Yes it's very annoying...
yakboyslim
Go Kart Champion
Do you have a spacer? P013E is for delayed response rich to lean. I'm getting the same thing and I think it just has to do with the spacer being a bit too long or restricted. Both exhaust leaks would be post o2 sensor 2 so unlikely that is the cause.
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Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
GLoBaLReBeL
Ready to race!
- Location
- South Bend, IN
If your exhaust meet up point is to close to one another, the rattle could be coming from them touching at certain RPMs or situations. I had that issue on mine, and just had to move it a CM or 2 back and wrapped the gap in tinfoil. This allowed the exhaust to vibrate without hitting each other and kept the path closed so no leak.
gn4rwhals
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Detroit, MI
Depending on your level of annoyance I would honestly just get a higher quality downpipe at this point.
CTS Turbo is a great fitting cheaper option, or if you want to go all out APR or Bull-X downpipes are the best fitting and sounding.
CTS Turbo is a great fitting cheaper option, or if you want to go all out APR or Bull-X downpipes are the best fitting and sounding.
Yes I have a spacer on my downpipe. Did you uninstall yours and the cel never came back?? The stupid spacer was 45 bucks
So you are strictly just talking about the downpipe meeting up with the exhaust? If so I have a good 2 inch gap between the two that the stock vw clamp covers.
yakboyslim
Go Kart Champion
My spacer is still on there. I have a spare phone running Torque and an obd2 adapter so it automatically clears any CEL. But I still get P013E.
I'm dealing with a very slight occaisional rattle so will probably try tweaking my spacer to see if I can get it to go away when I try to fix that.
Initially I had a lot of rattle then I loosened everything and put a balled up rag between the dp and the heat shield bolt. Tightened everything while under that pre load then pulled the rag out. Now only occaisionally rattles under a lot of load.
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I'm dealing with a very slight occaisional rattle so will probably try tweaking my spacer to see if I can get it to go away when I try to fix that.
Initially I had a lot of rattle then I loosened everything and put a balled up rag between the dp and the heat shield bolt. Tightened everything while under that pre load then pulled the rag out. Now only occaisionally rattles under a lot of load.
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yakboyslim
Go Kart Champion
If you have that big a gap then you could try loosening everything and pulling the dp back. It will fix that gap and probably get some more space with the heat shield bolt.
I have the same dp and mine mates up fine. Did you push the hanger all the way on to the dp? It should be about half way on.
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I have the same dp and mine mates up fine. Did you push the hanger all the way on to the dp? It should be about half way on.
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You are taking about loosening the hanger? The single nut on that is tightened down. You think I should loosen it? Or are you talking about the red grommets on the hanger?