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Wastegate Actuator Adjustment

MadMen

Ready to race!
Location
Mooresville, NC
I think your setting is fine. 3.57 at the lower stop is all you can accurately measure with the is20 wg. You more than likely have a physical problem with the wastegate assembly - which probably means time for a new turbo.

I would also try what Diggs asked, and read the voltage while holding it closed.
 

matrix1867

New member
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
Golf MK7
Does anyone know why the voltage wouldn't change? I am experiencing this same problem on an IS12 actuator I'm using on an IS38 turbo. If I spin the actuator rod clockwise facing the wastegate flapper my voltage remains 4.5V and doesn't change. If I spin counter clockwise same thing, the voltage doesn't change. I can completely remove the rod from the wastegate arm and spin it freely in both directions and it does not change.

Should I be able to push or pull the actuator rod at all? It is not stuck from what I can tell but it barely moves in and out, maybe only a few mm. If I try to run position test of end stops of charge pressure actuator on my OBD11, it says exited due to safety reasons. I'm assuming because the voltage is too high. This is with the car off, ignition on. Also when I drive I hear the wastegate open and let pressure off, but it seems to open too easily and for too long.
Screenshot_20210514-185412.jpg
 

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matrix1867

New member
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
Golf MK7
Yes it was working perfectly fine. Actually, one day it was working just fine... then it was cold over night, when I woke up to get ready to leave for work I had to scrap frost off my windshield, about 34 degrees, and as I was driving to work I noticed I had a symbol on my dash that was telling me cruise control was disabled, and I started to notice the boost problems where the car can no longer hold boost.

I thought maybe it was somehow related to change in temperature. Working fine one evening, then acting up the next morning. It's been crazy with the weather lately, like 32 degrees in the morning then 70 degrees during the afternoon.
 

matrix1867

New member
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
Golf MK7
I have some attachments on that post, I dunno if you can see.

P256300 and P226300

Now this is after I had been messing with the actuator, I want to say it was throwing the P256300 from the beginning

I'm going to jack the car back up and work on it again soon. The waste gate door itself doesn't seem to be siezed up from what I could tell yesterday. The arm moved and spun freely when I unscrewed the rod
 

matrix1867

New member
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
Golf MK7
The day I drove it when it was acting up I want to say it showed the P256300 code, I didn't take any screenshot of it before I tried to alter the actuator voltage. I do know it was reading 4.5V which is why I initially thought I needed to lower voltage and run the adaptation.

I do see another in history as P00AF00
 
Last edited:

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
The day I drove it when it was acting up I want to say it showed the P256300 code, I didn't take any screenshot of it before I tried to alter the actuator voltage. I do know it was reading 4.5V which is why I initially thought I needed to lower voltage and run the adaptation.

I do see another in history as P00AF00
https://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p00af/
 

matrix1867

New member
Location
Ohio
Car(s)
Golf MK7
IMG_20210515_152126.jpg
I feel like I would need to screw the rod in really far to close the waste gate door. Is this the PITA I am reading about? Eventually when it's threaded in a ways it gets incredibly hard to turn the rod
 
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