Thinner or offset tie rods?

[victorofhavoc]

Does anyone know if there are thinner or offset tie rods for the frontend of the mk7?

I've got an issue currently where the combo of superpro arms, css swivels, and a toe 0 alignment leads to the inside lip of my 17x9 vs5rs wheel rubbing pretty badly at full lock. The inside of the wheel is pretty torn up currently! The joy of aftermarket parts lining up .

Ideally I'd love if there's an offset tie rod or at least a much thinner one. Any options out there that anyone is aware of?

 

[DerHase]

If it’s only at very full lock, you could have some steering rack limiters machined pretty easily.

I’ve used these on other applications when adding brake ducting or modifying the knuckles for faster steering:

https://www.amazon.com/1979-2004-Mustang-Steering-Limiter-Spacers/dp/B01N1P0T20

No idea what the VW rack shaft diameter is but those or something similar may be worth a shot.

If moving the tie rod DOWN would help, look at the KCA462 whiteline kit. The bump steer sleeve drops the outer tie rod approx 5-6mm. A lot more than I was expecting. If you have RC correcting ball joints these will help with bump steer as well. In the process of taking measurements and stuff over the coming weeks so can’t say they’d not make it worse on OE ball joints or not.

 

[victorofhavoc]

If it’s only at very full lock, you could have some steering rack limiters machined pretty easily.

I’ve used these on other applications when adding brake ducting or modifying the knuckles for faster steering:

https://www.amazon.com/1979-2004-Mustang-Steering-Limiter-Spacers/dp/B01N1P0T20

No idea what the VW rack shaft diameter is but those or something similar may be worth a shot.

If moving the tie rod DOWN would help, look at the KCA462 whiteline kit. The bump steer sleeve drops the outer tie rod approx 5-6mm. A lot more than I was expecting. If you have RC correcting ball joints these will help with bump steer as well. In the process of taking measurements and stuff over the coming weeks so can’t say they’d not make it worse on OE ball joints or not.

I appreciate the feedback! As long as moving down doesn't also move things back, it should help a lot. It's really just about 2-3mm off. I'll look into it.

I'm curious to see what you get measurement wise as well.

Worst case scenario, I bet I could get a custom arm made. It's pretty close, but that added castor with 0 toe and a wide wheel just doesn't play super well. Here I thought my inner tire to strut clearance was the main issue, lol.