Sachs Performance Clutch any Good?

[ZuMBLe]

Are you sure your DMFW isn't actually going bad? My full face is completely quiet. It doesn't shutter/rumble/tremble at low RPMs. I often engage the clutch below 2000 rpm.

 

[Anthony3o55]

Are you sure your DMFW isn't actually going bad? My full face is completely quiet. It doesn't shutter/rumble/tremble at low RPMs. I often engage the clutch below 2000 rpm.

how can it go bad? It’s only been installed for 8-10k miles.

 

[ZuMBLe]

how can it go bad? It’s only been installed for 8-10k miles.

Yea, that's really low. Like I said, I drive mine in NYC crawling traffic. The manners of the full face is way better than the 4 puck. No noises here. No shuttering etc.

 

[Anthony3o55]

Yea, that's really low. Like I said, I drive mine in NYC crawling traffic. The manners of the full face is way better than the 4 puck. No noises here. No shuttering etc.

Thing is if I actually pay attention and give enough rpms I wont get any noise. Sometimes is super super minor. And then there’s times when I start bitting the clutch at 1k-800rpm (from not paying attention) and I’ll get the noise. I live in South FL and its constant stop and go traffic in the suburbs.

I told my mechanic bout it the noise when engaging and he said it could b a bad mount. I also notice when I WOT on 2 gear going thru 2500-4000 I’ll get a tin can sound. (tin tin tin tin tin) some thing sus going on lol. Back of my head telling me its a bad thurst bearing.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

It’s a mixture of yes not giving the car enough gas when taking off, and worn motor mounts.


My first aftermarket clutch would do this bad going up my driveway, I changed to stiffer mounts and it stopped happening unless I was just giving it way way to little gas to the point of stalling.

Edit : Just noticed the tin can comment… my first clutch with a new DMF actually broke at like 6k miles cause I was testing out the Cobb LC - the broken fly wheel did exactly that sound and behavior even with the stronger mounts

 

[ZuMBLe]

Thing is if I actually pay attention and give enough rpms I wont get any noise. Sometimes is super super minor. And then there’s times when I start bitting the clutch at 1k-800rpm (from not paying attention) and I’ll get the noise. I live in South FL and its constant stop and go traffic in the suburbs.

I told my mechanic bout it the noise when engaging and he said it could b a bad mount. I also notice when I WOT on 2 gear going thru 2500-4000 I’ll get a tin can sound. (tin tin tin tin tin) some thing sus going on lol. Back of my head telling me its a bad thurst bearing.

I did have both mounts replaced when my clutch went in! My tranny mount was toast. It's possible yours is also.

 

[the]

I've seen the SB stg3 can cause crank walk issues, and i don't plan on going any further power wise.

I've spent hours pouring the crank-walk threads for this platform. It's a 1% boogyman that's not worth thinking about. Your stated logic here is a correlation/causation fallacy. The increased amount of people reporting crank walk on cars with SBS3 clutch kits are also regularly high-power output MK7s where any number of other things could have went wrong. You could just as easily come to the conclusion any power modifications will crank walk you. Southbend IS one of if not the most popular brands for this platform, so you are naturally going to see a higher amount of cases on Southbend, because more people than not are running Southbend. However, it's your car and your stigmas are your business.

Personally I'm on the side of purchasing things the right way once. The DKM Stage 3 clutch with dual mass flywheel is the way to go, rated for 650+ tq. Hamstringing your build with a clutch rated at 400 torque is not a good idea. The EQT Stage 1 tune will request 400 torque and more at WOT.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Personally I'm on the side of purchasing things the right way once. The DKM Stage 3 clutch with dual mass flywheel is the way to go, rated for 650+ tq. Hamstringing your build with a clutch rated at 400 torque is not a good idea. The EQT Stage 1 tune will request 400 torque and more at WOT.

The dkm stage 3 does not use and DMF, actually none of the dkm stages do.


In regards to purchasing once… I ran a dkm stage 3, and while I saw the alarming issues and thread about it, I felt I could be one of the rare people it worked out for (Hindsight, big LOL). Cause there were 3 very active members that loved and had zero issues with the clutch. From the get go mine always had some annoying “quirks” and one of the big ones was anytime you shifted quickly (read not slowly releasing the clutch) you the clutch would make this odd pop and grind noise @badhombre can attest to that as it happened a few times when he tested my car out.

Also being SMF the noising are very unpleasant not in regards to idle but when you are at part throttle /low rpms - to top it of after about 7000 miles the “updated al metal” TOB crapped out on me and sprayed fluid all over the first disc and ruined it.


I’m running a ringer stage 5 now with the dual mass flywheel and the cars 100 times more enjoyable for me now. Aside from the monster heavy pedal lol

 

[the]

The dkm stage 3 does not use and DMF

Well, that's my own chunky reading I guess. Saw twin disk, misappropriated it with flywheel. Ringer racing is on my radar as well. MY SBS2 is very noisy at idle, and is sometimes noisy at low RPMs. Pretty sure the TOB is failing as well, as I occasionally get a mushy pedal and grindy second gear.

 

[Anthony3o55]

I've spent hours pouring the crank-walk threads for this platform. It's a 1% boogyman that's not worth thinking about. Your stated logic here is a correlation/causation fallacy. The increased amount of people reporting crank walk on cars with SBS3 clutch kits are also regularly high-power output MK7s where any number of other things could have went wrong. You could just as easily come to the conclusion any power modifications will crank walk you. Southbend IS one of if not the most popular brands for this platform, so you are naturally going to see a higher amount of causes on Southbend, because more people than not are running Southbend. However, it's your car and your stigmatisms are your business.

Personally I'm on the side of purchasing things the right way once. The DKM Stage 3 clutch with dual mass flywheel is the way to go. Hamstringing your build with a clutch rated at 400 torque is not a good idea. The EQT Stage 1 tune will request 400 torque and more at WOT.

Currently tuned with MTM STAGE 1 recently. Car pulls hard. I have a DP atm and get CEL on & off, needed stage 2 but couldn’t afford it. Just gotta pay the difference and I can go stage 2 and make more power. Rn doing like 315-330TQ probably who knos, I do abuse the car sometimes. Any best bang for your buck motor mounts that dont break the bank?

 

[the]

Any best bang for your buck motor mounts that dont break the bank?

I'm not aware of any bang for your buck section in regard to motor mounts. In my experience (which you should consider anecdotal) you either pay a premium for your motor mounts, or you get a deal on something that's going to fail on you too soon.

I have BFI motor mounts on my car, they were rock solid when they were installed. It relieved my jerkly lunging issue when I left off the gas in first gear. A thousand miles later and that is all back, so I suspect something else is going on with the suspension that's probably cratering mounts early. My opinion on motor mounts is not valuable because of this.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I'm not aware of any bang for your buck section in regard to motor mounts. In my experience (which you should consider anecdotal) you either pay a premium for your motor mounts, or you get a deal on something that's going to fail on you too soon.

I have BFI motor mounts on my car, they were rock solid when they were installed. It relieved my jerkly lunging issue when I left off the gas in first gear. A thousand miles later and that is all back, so I suspect something else is going on with the suspension that's probably cratering mounts early. My opinion on motor mounts is not valuable because of this.

Which dog bone mount are you running?

Through all the mount changes I’ve done on my car, and trying 3 diff. Dog bone setups I’ve found the dogbone location to always be the most susceptible to driver feedback of all the mounts

 

[the]

Which dog bone mount are you running?

Powerflex hybrid insert, stock dogbone. I wanted all fresh hardware in there so old worn stuff wasn't stressing the new stuff. However, didn't see many promising full dogbone replacements, just a lot of bend stories from APR DB and so on.

 

[oddspyke]

Reviving an old thread so I don't start a duplicate, but I want to add my experience with this clutch. For the sake of clarity, this is the kit I ordered, which I believe is the one the OP was referencing: VW Performance Clutch Kit - Sachs Performance KIT-883082001422

Just installed after removing a failed DKM stage 3, so take my impressions of it being "like stock" with a grain of salt. I also haven't hammered on it yet as it isn't broken in yet, so I'll drop an update in a month or so.

Initial impression is that it's very much like stock; quiet, smooth, easy to engage, and high engagement point (you'll want a clutch stop). I originally went with the DKM to "future proof" my build, but found I was very happy at stage 2 power levels and hated the noise and vibration of a SMF. The Sachs kit feels very civilized in comparison, even paired with a full set of BFI stage 1 mounts.

 

[Clem604]

Reviving an old thread so I don't start a duplicate, but I want to add my experience with this clutch. For the sake of clarity, this is the kit I ordered, which I believe is the one the OP was referencing: VW Performance Clutch Kit - Sachs Performance KIT-883082001422

Just installed after removing a failed DKM stage 3, so take my impressions of it being "like stock" with a grain of salt. I also haven't hammered on it yet as it isn't broken in yet, so I'll drop an update in a month or so.

Initial impression is that it's very much like stock; quiet, smooth, easy to engage, and high engagement point (you'll want a clutch stop). I originally went with the DKM to "future proof" my build, but found I was very happy at stage 2 power levels and hated the noise and vibration of a SMF. The Sachs kit feels very civilized in comparison, even paired with a full set of BFI stage 1 mounts.

I have around 30k km's on my Sachs kit now and I'm having the same experience. No issues at all with the clutch and it still operates like stock, albiet a slightly stiffer pedal.