Sachs Performance Clutch any Good?

[eeeeeep]

Hi everyone! I recently tuned my 2017 GTI S with EQT's Stage 1 tune, around 45k miles. I still have the stock clutch in the car, and it slipped BEFORE I tuned it, let's just say it's not loving life with the car tuned. I've been researching what clutch to get, and I found almost everyone and their dog saying SB S3+. However, upon researching this clutch, I found they can lead to crankwalk issues on some cars, while others are fine, its like a luck of the draw type thing. I found that crankwalk is caused by the increased pressure from the pressure plate. I want to keep the DMF, as that is what the car is designed to have, but I also want to mitigate any chance of crankwalk.

Introduction over, I found this Sachs Performance Clutch Kit that comes with a pressure plate, TOB and a disc that can handle up to 400ft/lb of torque, giving me a bunch of headroom as my tune only develops 350 maximum. People say that this clutch kit in particular has a very stock feel, which is what I'm after, as my guess is that means the PP isn't much harder than the stock one. My question is, does anyone else have experience with this clutch kit in particular? I've seen on forums and FB groups that when you replace the clutch, you have to replace the flywheel as well. Do you really have to replace the flywheel? Are there any other bits that have to be replaced with the clutch, like the slave cylinder? Are there any other clutch plates that work with the factory DMF and have pressure plates not much harder than the factory PP?

Thanks!

Here's a link to the Sachs Performance Clutch. These guys also make OE and OEM clutches for all kinds of VAG cars.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw...achs-performance-kit-883082001422#description

 

[GTIfan99]

It's a popular clutch option if you're staying stg 1 or 2 on pump gas.

I will say that sometimes projects end up going farther than we initially intend. If that's even remotely a possibility, you might want to look at something like a south bend stg 3. It's seems pretty popular with big turbo cars or corn.

 

[eeeeeep]

It's a popular clutch option if you're staying stg 1 or 2 on pump gas.

I will say that sometimes projects end up going farther than we initially intend. If that's even remotely a possibility, you might want to look at something like a south bend stg 3. It's seems pretty popular with big turbo cars or corn.

I plan on staying stg1, I've seen the SB stg3 can cause crank walk issues, and i don't plan on going any further power wise.

 

[GTIfan99]

I plan on staying stg1, I've seen the SB stg3 can cause crank walk issues, and i don't plan on going any further power wise.

Then it should be a good choice. A good stg 1 tune and an intercooler is a fun package.

Good luck .

 

[eeeeeep]

Then it should be a good choice. A good stg 1 tune and an intercooler is a fun package.

Good luck .

Thanks mate

 

[GTIfan99]

And I could be wrong, but don't they have hybrid version that holds 430 lbs ft?

 

[Clem604]

Introduction over, I found this Sachs Performance Clutch Kit that comes with a pressure plate, TOB and a disc that can handle up to 400ft/lb of torque, giving me a bunch of headroom as my tune only develops 350 maximum. People say that this clutch kit in particular has a very stock feel, which is what I'm after, as my guess is that means the PP isn't much harder than the stock one. My question is, does anyone else have experience with this clutch kit in particular? I've seen on forums and FB groups that when you replace the clutch, you have to replace the flywheel as well. Do you really have to replace the flywheel? Are there any other bits that have to be replaced with the clutch, like the slave cylinder? Are there any other clutch plates that work with the factory DMF and have pressure plates not much harder than the factory PP?

I've had this clutch installed for about 3000km (1864 miles) and I'm very happy with the it so far Initially when it was installed it was the clutch pedal was very stiff but now that it is fully broken in I can say it's only slightly stiffer than the OEM clutch with the clutch return spring taken out. All NVH and noise is the same as the stock clutch. Currently, it's holding up to my APR IS38 high torque tune without issue.

When the clutch was being installed the tech said that my original dmf COULD have been reused but he always recommends replacing it. As for replacing other things I ordered a clutch install kit (from ECS I believe?) that had all the bolts and other items needed. I also replaced the OEM rear main seal with the metal iAbed RMS. I was going to replace it regardless but I'm glad I did because I discovered that my stock RMS had a slow leak.

 

[Hotfart]

I've been running this clutch for around 4 years & 25k miles on a stage 1 e40 tune from 5150. Only other power mods are a twintercooler & stock airbox mods (stock downpipe & turbo). Dyno'ed @ 300hp/370tq on a hot day with 105 degree temps inside the shop, so it was certainly down on power in that kind of heat, and have trapped 109.5 mph. I don't constantly beat the crap out of the car, but I definitely run it hard here and there. So far it's held up perfectly with no slippage. Paired up with a clutch stop, return spring removal, and bleeder restrictor removal and it feels great. At first it'll be quite stiff with a low engagement point, but after a couple hundred miles it'll break in. Now it's just a bit stiffer than stock but nothing extreme, rough guess is maybe 1/3 or 1/2 again as much effort to use the pedal. The only downside is since it's an unsprung disk, I can definitely hear some gear lash in neutral with the clutch pedal out, which isn't too annoying but is definitely noticeable, especially when it's fully warmed up.

I installed the clutch at 2K miles before being tuned, and reused the factory DMF (I took it easy those first 2K miles to preserve the stock DMF, since I knew I was going to tune the car and change the clutch). I also did the iAbed RMS at the same time, since it's cheap insurance.

I know crankwalk is pretty much a crapshoot, whether it's a stock clutch or aftermarket. But I still start it in neutral and immediately let the pedal out for a few moments while oil pressure builds, and at stoplights I tend to keep it in neutral with the pedal out. Though I'm not worried enough about it to rig up a bypass switch like some people do, in order to be able to start it with the clutch pedal out. Also I'm not sure if the clutch stop would have any effect on crankwalk, but it can't hurt.

 

[ZuMBLe]

I just went to this clutch setup from the 4 puck. This is definitely a more street oriented clutch. So far it's holding power just fine. I really like it for normal driving.

The 4 puck was super tolerant of slipping. No smell and it grabbed harder and harder. The regular full face is organic so it doesn't like to be slipped hard. Normally not an problem at all, but something to note.

 

[Bryans12v]

I just went to this clutch setup from the 4 puck. This is definitely a more street oriented clutch. So far it's holding power just fine. I really like it for normal driving.

The 4 puck was super tolerant of slipping. No smell and it grabbed harder and harder. The regular full face is organic so it doesn't like to be slipped hard. Normally not an problem at all, but something to note.

Just curious.. What made you want to switch away from the 4 puck setup. After 2k miles, its seems extremely drivable. The biggest thing I notice is getting into another mk7 and feeling how light the pedal is.

The crank walk issue is really what scares me with this pressure plate. Especially with the fact that I'll be out of warranty in less than a year from now.

 

[ZuMBLe]

Just curious.. What made you want to switch away from the 4 puck setup. After 2k miles, its seems extremely drivable. The biggest thing I notice is getting into another mk7 and feeling how light the pedal is.

The crank walk issue is really what scares me with this pressure plate. Especially with the fact that I'll be out of warranty in less than a year from now.

The clutch would make squeaking sounds, and shutter. It was totally driveable, but it wasn't refined. It's a bit embarrassing having passengers in the car and it's squeaking and shuttering if I'm not perfect with the engagement every time. The full face is way more forgiving, and so far no problems. The 4 puck is a dailyable race clutch. The full face is a strong daily clutch.

 

[Anthony3o55]

The clutch would make squeaking sounds, and shutter. It was totally driveable, but it wasn't refined. It's a bit embarrassing having passengers in the car and it's squeaking and shuttering if I'm not perfect with the engagement every time. The full face is way more forgiving, and so far no problems. The 4 puck is a dailyable race clutch. The full face is a strong daily clutch.

I got the Sachs Performance clutch and I stay getting a shuttering/trembling when not being perfect with the clutch. Annoying and concerning it could be serious. Did you experience this noise the most in 1st gear coming off a stop?

 

[SPLR337]

Seems like it could be due to the unsprung disc. I am seriously considering this kit down the line, but I would much rather have a sprung disc. I don't know if using a new OEM disc with the upgraded Sachs pressure plate would have the same holding capabilities though.

The TTRS/RSR kit seems to use a factory sprung disc with just an upgraded pressure plate.

 

[ZuMBLe]

I got the Sachs Performance clutch and I stay getting a shuttering/trembling when not being perfect with the clutch. Annoying and concerning it could be serious. Did you experience this noise the most in 1st gear coming off a stop?

This is the 4 puck? If so, yes. It will shutter if you're not perfect. It only made noise in 1st gear from a stop. When I took the friction plate out, it looked GREAT.

 

[Anthony3o55]

This is the 4 puck? If so, yes. It will shutter if you're not perfect. It only made noise in 1st gear from a stop. When I took the friction plate out, it looked GREAT.

Its not the 4 puck. Its the regular clutch thats rated for 400TQ I believe. If I wanted to engange the clutch quick in first coming off a stop or even clutching out without giving enough RPM. I’ll get like a rumbling/trembling noise coming under the dash that only last 2-3 seconds when the clutch is hitting the bitting point. Had this noise before on the stock clutch and thought it was the FW being bad, but its still there. Idk how to compare the noise. Sounds like if the disc was wiggling as it spins or thunder rumbling. Maybe it’s a motor mount or trans? Who knows. I did used to launch the car often when I first got the car which I regret doing. Now no more launches only driving spiritedly.