golfRdaddy
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Bakersfield
- Car(s)
- 17R / 16R
deja vu 
7
Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R
- Thread starter scrllock
- Start date
a few bolts later and she's out
Got stuck on that long ass bolt connecting the bevel box the shaft on the DSG but it's real close. Waiting on some tools, expect to have it on the stand and open this weekend.
Injectors and HPFP are at nostrum for bench-testing and rebuilds. I compared the bosch DI that came out to my original continental DI and this is 11k miles on top and 25k on bottom.
The shop that replaced the motor did not use the intermediate ring when installing the bosch DI kit (https://injector-rehab.com/product/vw-audi-gdi-intermediate-ring/) and my theory is that caused the injector to protrude an extra mm or so into the cylinder, causing improper combustion and potentially overheating the injector and one side of the piston rings. I had someone test this on a spare GTI head and it did seem to protrude slightly more.
If that's the root cause, well, my fault for not checking that and having them buy a kit without the pizza toppers. Presumably a more VW-oriented shop would have caught that, but that wasn't really an option. Once I can personally verify everything on my head I'll do a detailed PSA on the bosch retrofit, I'm sure I'm not the only one to screw this up.
In the meantime ordered some more random bits. Oil pump chain and tensioner, balance shaft sprocket, turbo bolts that I nearly stripped, all the one-time-use bevel box hardware. Technically the whole balance shaft, needle bearing, and sprocket are supposed to be replaced, but most people seem to re-use them if they're not scored. Might need a new DSG oil pump motor, the whole thing is one assembly and we broke off the pin cover that interfaces with the harness. Stupid mistake but it's not extremely expensive.
Very nervous and excited to open it up and evaluate damage. Praying there's no damage to the crank, mains and head.
Got stuck on that long ass bolt connecting the bevel box the shaft on the DSG but it's real close. Waiting on some tools, expect to have it on the stand and open this weekend.
Injectors and HPFP are at nostrum for bench-testing and rebuilds. I compared the bosch DI that came out to my original continental DI and this is 11k miles on top and 25k on bottom.
The shop that replaced the motor did not use the intermediate ring when installing the bosch DI kit (https://injector-rehab.com/product/vw-audi-gdi-intermediate-ring/) and my theory is that caused the injector to protrude an extra mm or so into the cylinder, causing improper combustion and potentially overheating the injector and one side of the piston rings. I had someone test this on a spare GTI head and it did seem to protrude slightly more.
If that's the root cause, well, my fault for not checking that and having them buy a kit without the pizza toppers. Presumably a more VW-oriented shop would have caught that, but that wasn't really an option. Once I can personally verify everything on my head I'll do a detailed PSA on the bosch retrofit, I'm sure I'm not the only one to screw this up.
In the meantime ordered some more random bits. Oil pump chain and tensioner, balance shaft sprocket, turbo bolts that I nearly stripped, all the one-time-use bevel box hardware. Technically the whole balance shaft, needle bearing, and sprocket are supposed to be replaced, but most people seem to re-use them if they're not scored. Might need a new DSG oil pump motor, the whole thing is one assembly and we broke off the pin cover that interfaces with the harness. Stupid mistake but it's not extremely expensive.
Very nervous and excited to open it up and evaluate damage. Praying there's no damage to the crank, mains and head.
Hardest part of the tear down: getting the $700 oil pan off while still being re-usable.
Trick ended up being the Lisle gasket separator tool plus some repeated soaking in 3m adhesive remover. Hoping this corner is ok, thinking maybe a paper gasket plus RTV next time.
If it leaks, going straight to a cheap OEM baffle/pan, though.
Got the head and upper pan off and honestly, uh, super underwhelming? Like the boroscope indicated, there is some very minor damage to the cylinder walls, enough material that I can pick up ferrous strands with a magnet.
The head looks great, maybe a couple visual marks on the cam journals, but nothing to the touch. Still need to get the balance shafts out and inspect the rest of the bearings, but besides some burnt-smelling oil, nothing really pops out?
I'll have the machine shop bore it out, make sure the clearances are perfect, and probably have them make sure the head is flat and valve guides aren't worn. If I'm feeling froggy, re-paint the block so it doesn't look like it came from Florida. Feeling pretty relieved today!
Trick ended up being the Lisle gasket separator tool plus some repeated soaking in 3m adhesive remover. Hoping this corner is ok, thinking maybe a paper gasket plus RTV next time.
If it leaks, going straight to a cheap OEM baffle/pan, though.
Got the head and upper pan off and honestly, uh, super underwhelming? Like the boroscope indicated, there is some very minor damage to the cylinder walls, enough material that I can pick up ferrous strands with a magnet.
The head looks great, maybe a couple visual marks on the cam journals, but nothing to the touch. Still need to get the balance shafts out and inspect the rest of the bearings, but besides some burnt-smelling oil, nothing really pops out?
I'll have the machine shop bore it out, make sure the clearances are perfect, and probably have them make sure the head is flat and valve guides aren't worn. If I'm feeling froggy, re-paint the block so it doesn't look like it came from Florida. Feeling pretty relieved today!
Balance shafts out, way easier than my dealer tech friend was saying. Maybe some of them are press-fit, mine weren't. Just unbolt the water pump sprocket (reverse thread!), unbolt everything on the front (m10 triple square + 2x T30s) and they pull right out.
Waiting on a torque plate so I can take everything to the machinist, but in the meantime, these showed up:
Vibra-technics competition mounts. Kinda wanted to go back to rubber, but the only other option was 034 or the other OE-style bonded mounts. No thanks.
I'm told they're working on a dogbone mount as well, very interested in trying that too.
Waiting on a torque plate so I can take everything to the machinist, but in the meantime, these showed up:
Vibra-technics competition mounts. Kinda wanted to go back to rubber, but the only other option was 034 or the other OE-style bonded mounts. No thanks.
I'm told they're working on a dogbone mount as well, very interested in trying that too.
So follow-up to this:
Continental (06K906036N) R injector on a DLRA (2019 R) head:
Bosch 62836 (x-refs to 06L906036AK, pre-19 R injector) on the same head:
These are both installed as shipped, i.e. with the plastic spacer that comes with the continental, and no spacer on the Bosch. Have some spacers on the way to see if that fixes it, but I think I'll have everything over to the machinist before that arrives.
And here we have the same Bosch R injector, but with the pizza topper from injector-rehab. This is actually two parts, the plastic cage and a curved metal washer. Looks very similar to the elring 485.410 rebuild kit, just cheaper and without the extra seals.
At this point I've gone through everything and this is the only obvious mechanical issue. Bearing surfaces all look pristine. Piston skirts have some wear, but ringlands themselves seem okay.
El_bigote_AJ
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Las Vegas
- Car(s)
- 2019 GTI bunny
Awesome! Been waiting for these to get released.. I know that in mk4 vr6 and 1.8 car I’ve been in these have been surprisingly smooth.
Did you get any insight of the hardness variance between the “fast road” and the comp ones?
No, seems pretty firm though. My initial complaints are that I have to buy more OEM bolts and they don't provide torque specs for the bolts they do include.
I think they're releasing a dogbone mount at some point too.
Dropped off the bottom end with the machinist today. Getting close!
Also PSA, the OEM bolts don't fit either. I think N10209605 may work (m12x1.5x65mm), which is ~100Nm on a mk4 trans mount, but waiting to hear from Vibratechnic. I need to dig out my motor mount bracket so I can see if those fit.
Picked it up from the machinist the other day. Cleaned, bored, honed, polished, gapped and torqued.
Head is cleaned up, need to figure out how to get the old springs out still. I gave up on the Bosch injectors, there's probably a couple aftermarket injectors coming out early next year, so I'm just going back to my original continentals. Waiting on a flow-test next week from the injector shop.
I am also looking at the double-seal modification, Mabo was selling some like this for the 2.5T, but a second lip can be machined onto any injector. Probably just going to stick to stock turbo on the continentals and then figure something else out when i go back to a bigger turbo next spring though.
Other than that, just waiting on fluids, couple tools. Plus EVEN MORE bolts. I will be so happy if I don't place another oempartsonline order this year. Picked up this bad boy too:
Oh, and vibratechnics sent me some spacers to make their trans mount fit on the DQ381. Still not sure about that, hope it's nice.
Three more weeks and a friend is flying out to help me get it all put together and back into the car. Getting real.
Mike Risch (builtbymike) came up and we slapped everything together in a couple days. A few setbacks, had to improvise some fasteners for the upper oil pan (really needs a helicoil) and the RMS kit didn't come with hardware, so it's got some home depot m6x12 bolts holding it on. At one point he got worried about the axial play on the crank, but we checked with a dial gauge and it came out to .0045" which is half of allowable for new.
Got it mated to the trans, went over everything and noticed a ton of radial play on the L380. Only has 2,000 miles and must have died pushing 25psi with a safe taper, so wtf. Obviously can't break a motor in on a bad turbo, so gotta figure that out.
I was going to grab a DTR6054 when it was $1350, but looks like they just jacked the price to $2k. Might have to do an Arashi 2867, we'll see.
The ironic thing is that the dead turbo might have been the actual reason I started pulling everything apart. Just made me paranoid about the misfire so I scoped the motor to find the scoring, then found the injector position. Absolutely made the right move doing the build while the crank and bearings were all in good shape.
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Went by super fast but I did have a VW tech and a guy who's built 5 or 6 of these. I can't claim any measure of success til it's in the car running, but we all learned something. My tech has never built an ea888 from a bare short block (dealers usually just re-ring or send out for a new assembled long block). Mike hadn't built a 19+ motor (slight differences in the balance shafts, upper oil pan, etc.
#1 thing that helped was organizing everything that came out of the old motor and labeling it. And I mean _everything_, you never knew when you might need to re-use a bolt that disappeared and you've got RTV curing and the nearest dealer with one is a 2 hour drive away and they close in an hour.
Unfortunately when you assemble it in a clean garage then quickly move everything back to the home garage, things get misplaced. Especially when you've got 3 guys all working out of 7 totes full of old/new parts. I'd have felt better seeing every seal and bolt go in, but unfortunately as the least-skilled contributor, I was the designated go-fer and spent a good bit of time at harbor freight and home depot.
While I wait on a turbo for break-in, there's a few things I'm going to go back and re-do. I didn't have a new oil cooler or a gasket for it. Bad spot to develop a leak. Also discovered that my new FCP thermostat housing was broken in the box, but that's gotta come out to do the oil cooler anyhow. The bolts I ordered for the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors weren't correct and were re-used. Both easy to do later on if it's a problem. Not entirely sure if we put the strainer on the oil pump (separate from the pickup itself), so might have an excuse to pull the pan and helicoil the upper oil pan threads.
Feeling great about it though, building a motor with some VW buds is a fantastic way to spend a long weekend.