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Second the Zimmerman rotors - good quality and value for money. I like th EBC yellows as a good all round pad.

Yeah....I doubt it makes much of a difference to be honest at least on a normal driven street car, despite VWs exacting process. A slight overfill could potentially contribute to faster overheating on a track day, say, which could trip a protection circuit. But the jobs easy enough to do...

Its a certain temperature window for checking level. If you've just driven over there it will be too hot so he will need to let it cool down at least a bit.

Brakes are pretty sharp/sensitive on these cars....and some pads more so than others on top of that. Personally I really like the sharpness - you'll get used to it and then other cars brakes will feel dull to you!

I went even cheaper, with a 'slippery Pete' one off Amazon for about $15. Fits right on the bottles (came with different attachments for different width bottle caps). Pump your one liter in, unscrew bottle and on to next one. Has worked great on 09G box on the 1.8, also used it when I did my vaq...

Ha, spot on. Of course knew to put the snorkel in first having done a couple of other vw non dsg auto boxes bottom fill.... but have always put the drain plug in finger tight before starting the car and running it up. And a there is no real need, especially as I even made a rubber bung for my...

Yep, book is 5.2l....but it then states to run up the dsg to temp window while cycling through the gears, and check final level by observing stream. Which will generally bring it down to....4.7l give or take a few ml. That extra 0.2l is the justification for some shops to sell dsg change kits...

Only other thing I can think of is it wasn't fully drained, or he did it on a slope or something maybe, car not level. Guess it would have to be a fairly substantial slope to account for 0.7l though.

Yes, they will have a stream coming out for a start. because generally the practice is to overfill a little, then drain-to-correct level. If you are planning on filling some more from the bottom, you will need the correct threaded screw in attachment and to make life easier for yourself, some...

I think the 6 bottles comes from the 'by the vw book' method which iirc they seem to want you to put 5.5l in and then drain it down to level....or to account for someone having a drama refitting the drain plug if doing bottom fill method and losing a load. It's 4.7l or near as dammit including...

Well, it's what I do. I did the top fill 4.7l and call it good for my first one. But then OCD got the best of me....so I went and checked it properly anyway. It was near enough bang on to be fair. But in this case he's wanting to know how to check level it being already filled... and that's...

The only way to do it is to jack the car up level, run the transmission fluid up to temperature (monitoring with vcds or obdeleven) and with the car still running, remove the drain plug (but not the internal snorkel) and observe what comes out. Should be a broken stream trickle. If nothing comes...

Yep...very similar experience to my first one when it went - perfectly fine leaving home, stopped for gas 45 mins later - dead as a nail. Thankfully I had my jumppack in the glove box which got me to my friends house where I was going, jumped again and back to Autozone for a new one.

I don't have a TDI workshop manual, but my guess is there will be a heater control valve in the circuit somewhere - but it may well be in a different place and/or different size and shape to the 2.0 TSI petrol engines. You could try tracing the coolant lines back from the bulkhead to see if you...

Yeah, it's tricky with thst union whichever way you do it. I can't imagine not having the manifold off though - good effort if you've found a technique thay works for you thay way!

Just be very conscious as to how much you are moving the AC line when you've loosened the bracket - last thing you'd want to do is kink that line! Also make sure your coolant line(s) from the header tank and the hard pipe its connected to are all loosened up and well out of the way.

Hmm, it's a tricky one IMO, as it just seems a lottery as to what mileage any given pump will fail. Some start at very low miles, but others can soldier on quite a long time (the one I did on daughters 1.8TSI for example had done near 150k miles and wasn't even leaking - but the thermostat had...

That's what I did when I took out the alternator on my daughter's 1.8TSI on the way to taking out the whole accessory bracket to fix a leaking oil seal. Took the alternator out through the top.

Yes, for the reason above. You might get away with reusing.... but unless you are happy to run the risk of possibly having to take the manifold off again, replace it.

I just buy the cheapest battery I can find,and expect to replace every 3 years max. Would sooner do that over pay more than double for the super-duper warranty ones which cost more than double. I've never before had a car that seems to eat them as fast, or have them fail as completely as these...