Transmission Fluid for 6MT

[Visceral]

Can anyone recommend resources to look up and get smart about VIS number and the like? I run a DMF and will likely do the same after my replacement clutch. That said, I am always looking for areas to "upgrade" from OEM if at all possible, including things like transmission fluid. Maybe this is not one of those areas to mess around with...

Any reco's appreciated. Cheers.

 

[greens]

Perhaps you're not familiar with transmission fluid weights or VIS numbers but the Ford fluid is a terrible match for the VW factory fluid. If you want to run something super-thick like the Ford fluid to quiet down your rattling transmission after installing a SMF, that's fine but if you still have a DMF, it's a terrible choice.

It's painfully obvious you're the one clearly not familiar with fluid weights and VIS numbers.

 

[nonegiven]

It's painfully obvious you're the one clearly not familiar with fluid weights and VIS numbers.

Try again. You're quoting numbers that are twice as thick as the stock fluid and think it's comparable. Rice somewhere else.

 

[greens]

Try again. You're quoting numbers that are twice as thick as the stock fluid and think it's comparable. Rice somewhere else.

Thank you for confirming my assertion.

 

[OBP]

So is my $hit gonna blow since I’m running that Ford fluid that’s almost twice as thick vs stock at 100*?

 

[greens]

So is my $hit gonna blow since I’m running that Ford fluid that’s almost twice as thick vs stock at 100*?

The G052527A2 VW fluid is a straight SAE 75W. The Ford fluid is a 75W90. They're both the same 75W. The Ford fluid becomes a 90W at full temp. A 90W is not twice as thick as a 75W. This isn't a 75W140.

nonegiven should call up DAP and tell them they have no clue what they're doing and should put themselves out of business. Here they are *gasp* putting Motul Gear 300 in the MK7 tranny:

Guess what Motul Gear 300 is? Oh that's right. A 75W90 GL-4 gear fluid. https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n...eets/106/Gear_20300_2075W90_GB.pdf?1492016023

Now compare those numbers with the Ford fluid I provided the spec for above. Nearly the exact same VIS, VI, flash point, density, etc.

And hell no your $hit isn't gonna blow. I've been running the Ford fluid for over 10k miles at this point. Zero issues unless you consider improved shifting feel an issue.

As the immortal Mark Twain once said "It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt."

 

[Ridebjj]

As the immortal Mark Twain once said "It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt."

Whenever I read someone quote that little clichéd homily, I think that same thing about them except replace "fool" with "cringey dork".

 

[greens]

As the immortal Mark Twain once said "It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt."

Whenever I read someone quote that little clichéd homily, I think that same thing about them except replace "fool" with "cringey dork".

That's a shame considering his brilliant mind.

Whenever I see someone with obtuse usage of quotations dissing a pertinent platitude all I can think is what a cogent tryhard.

 

[OBP]

Well... I feel so much better knowing that my trans isn't gonna blow up.

FYI... That VW fluid you referenced is only around 6.5 cST @ 100C.

That Ford fluid is 15.4 cST @ 100C. So, yeah, slightly MORE than twice as thick vs the VW fluid at operating temp.

 

[nonegiven]

Well... I feel so much better knowing that my trans isn't gonna blow up.

FYI... That VW fluid you referenced is only around 6.5 cST @ 100C.

That Ford fluid is 15.4 cST @ 100C. So, yeah, slightly MORE than twice as thick vs the VW fluid at operating temp.

Exactly right. Not sure why some people struggle with basic math but the world needs ditch diggers too.

 

[A7xogg]

Most people don't even change their mt fluid let alone change it often enough. So it don't matter the fluid new fluid vs 50,000 mile fluid, no comparison.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Figured this would be the best thread to jump in and ask this,

so last month I had my clutch upgraded (21k miles) I went with a dual mass flywheel set up in efforts to avoid chatter (I regret this, lol). So the flywheel is new and I paired that with a Clutch masters full face/8puck CERAMIC disc and once the clutch was broken in, the clutch pedal Felt great, has good engage and disengage points with just some what stiffer than stock feel(stock felt non existing in respects to stiff, lol).

One things I’m still trying to get used to is how agressive ceramic seems to bit and needs higher RPM to keep from juddering.
now to get to the issues is that when the gets to operating temps the clutch and pedal points feel great and easy for me to manage to avoid excessive Judder but after I’ve been driving it hard the pedal feel just gets very different and I start having issues getting it to take off smooth.

While taking into account the temps in Vegas being 95-105F. Would this issue be related to the trans fluid or the brake fluids? Both are stock fluids...so I’m wondering if my set up is requiring a high performance option due to my agressive set up and being and hybrid is38 car. *also I’m changing the clutch line to braided steel and deleting the swirl valve Tomorrow.

 

[OBP]

It isn't the fluid that's causing the change in pedal feel and engagement point after running your car hard. It's the clutch material.

That being said, you have nothing to lose by changing out the brake and trans fluid.

 

[clarence35]

. . .
Well for the Mk7 I did a bunch of research and instead of going the Motul route like most, which people seem to even concede up front makes for tough shifts in cold weather, I went back to the old standby Pennzoil Syncromesh and got the same results - no more crunching or even having to delay shifting. Problem fixed. The shifts are smooth even when cold.

. . .

Credit to user "Audi Junkie" for first posting this in this thread. He's been a step ahead for a while now.

Thanks for your feedback. I recently bought a '17 GTI MT w/54k miles and the shifter had noticeable resistance going into second gear until the revs came down (i.e., could only be shifted slowly when the revs closely matched). It also felt quite rough/notchy as it slipped into gear, but no actual grinds. Because there were no grinds, I had a feeling all it needed was a fluid change and bought 3L of the very expensive VW G052527A2 fluid the day I bought the car.

In hindsight, this was risky. But I previously had an '08 GTI (owned since new) and the shifter on that car got better around 100k mi after a change with fresh OEM VW fluid. Interestingly, the new VW MK7 G052527A2 fluid is noticeably thicker than the previous OEM spec VW G052171A2 fluid for my MK5 GTI, and it's also about $20 more per bottle for the MK7 fluid.

In my new-to-me '17 GTI, the old fluid came out absolutely filthy when drained so I think it was probably the original factory fill. After putting in the new VW fluid, I was quite disheartened and worried when it still drove the same as before for the first couple of days. Upon seeing bicycle019's post, I even bought Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid from Autozone and was going to give it a shot the following weekend. However, after about a week of driving on the fresh VW fluid, it may have "broken in" and my shifting issues went away. No crunching or delays, smooth even when cold with outside temps in the 40s, feels even better than my MK5 did when new. Just returned the Pennzoil Synchromesh, although I would still give it a shot if the shifting quality worsens over time given how cheap it is to try.

All that to say, I think it's extremely helpful for folks to post their experiences with various fluids. For me, new OEM VW fluid was the ticket to smooth shifts. It's expensive at around $150/change, but since I bought it from FCP Euro, I can take advantage of the lifetime replacement. Also really glad to know that Pennzoil Synchromesh might be another good option I can get local and immediately for cheap.

 

[OBP]

Here is longer term review of the Ford/castrol unicorn MT fluid.

I’ve noticed no issues with cold weather shifting, unlike some of the reports of the Motul gear oil (looking at the specs, these two are relatively close in thickness, with Ford fluid being slightly thicker at higher temps)

However, the last time I was at the drag strip, I was experiencing gear lockout going into 4th gear. I had to shift slowly, or it wouldn’t go into gear. It’s likely the fluid, but I bought new engine mounts to help rule out if the worn mounts were contributing to this. (My old Evo exhibited the same issue when I switched from OEM to Redline fluids)

Shifting at any throttle other than a WOT pull, this fluid is better than OEM or Royal Purp synchromax. I like that it IS thicker at operating temp because it quiets down the gear lash of my SMF clutch.

I’ll test and report again after the BFi mounts go on. I got some bottles of Diaqueen gear oil to test as a fall back if the car is still getting gear lock out.