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Motul Gear 300 transmission fluid

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
How are you liking the Rowe? I was thinking about picking that up myself, or Liqui Moly. What is the stock oil weight? I wasn't looking at the Motul because the oil is just too heavy.
Stock is like 75 I believe i read somewhere, vw dont give an actual weight if I remember correctly, I like its oem like.

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KawaZukiVdub

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Latveria
Stock is like 75 I believe i read somewhere, vw dont give an actual weight if I remember correctly, I like its oem like.

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I will more than likely go for the Rowe... I looked at the Liqui Moly and it is the same weight as the Motul 300 so the same issues will arise eventually..

Thanks Railroader!
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
I will more than likely go for the Rowe... I looked at the Liqui Moly and it is the same weight as the Motul 300 so the same issues will arise eventually..



Thanks Railroader!
No problem,

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russiankid

Drag Race Newbie
Location
PA
How did you come across Ravenol MTF2?

Interesting. I've been running motul but I think ill switch. The motul has been kind of notchy.


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I stumbled upon it through Amazon. I did some further searching and its a very popular oil in Europe, produced in Germany. It meets a lot of manufacture specific PN's including a list of VW ones. They do also make MTF3 which is a 75W oil only. However, I only found on there Dutch website that it meets the MK7 GTI spec for the MTF3, the USA website did not list and it did not specify GL-4. The MTF2 is a 75W80 GL-4 specific fluid, it meets a lot of VW spec, but it does not list the MK7 PN directly. However, since it is 75W80 GL-4 full synthetic, i decided to try it and plus it's on prime.

I have read that factory VW stuff is 6.6cst and Ravenol is around 7.7cst I believe, so slightly thicker than factory but pretty close.
 
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yirayira

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Chicago, IL
Car(s)
2015 GTI SE
Stock is like 75 I believe i read somewhere, vw dont give an actual weight if I remember correctly, I like its oem like.

Fuchs G-052-171-A2 is the OEM fill and 75w GL-4 spec
 

ATR

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Baltimore
Car(s)
'17 Golf R 6mt
I stumbled upon it through Amazon. I did some further searching and its a very popular oil in Europe, produced in Germany. It meets a lot of manufacture specific PN's including a list of VW ones. They do also make MTF3 which is a 75W oil only. However, I only found on there Dutch website that it meets the MK7 GTI spec for the MTF3, the USA website did not list and it did not specify GL-4. The MTF2 is a 75W80 GL-4 specific fluid, it meets a lot of VW spec, but it does not list the MK7 PN directly. However, since it is 75W80 GL-4 full synthetic, i decided to try it and plus it's on prime.

I have read that factory VW stuff is 6.6cst and Ravenol is around 7.7cst I believe, so slightly thicker than factory but pretty close.

That's the kind of info I'm looking for!

Thanks!

I'll also research it a bit, but considering how many specs it meets I may just buy a few qts for when I have my clutch replaced eventually.
 

russiankid

Drag Race Newbie
Location
PA
That's the kind of info I'm looking for!

Thanks!

I'll also research it a bit, but considering how many specs it meets I may just buy a few qts for when I have my clutch replaced eventually.

The main thing is to make sure the fluid is GL-4. GL-4/GL-5 will work but from experience, GL-4 behaves better with yellow metals.
 

railroader

Autocross Newbie
Location
Yuma Arizona
Some info on gl-4 and gl-5

There is a lot of confusion about gear oils and the API classifications. In this paper I will try to

differentiate the two oils and clear up the mysteries that are flying all over the internet. It is extremely

common, or normal, for all GL-5 oils to claim they cover the API GL-4 requirements for gear oils. This

is a true statement. Does that make them satisfactory for synchromesh or synchronized transmissions?

NO! They meet the GEAR OIL specifications, not transmission oil specifications. The API GL-4 and

GL-5 categories do not mention or have anything to do with transmission synchronizers.

History:

The gear oils of a few decades ago had lead additives that were effective at wear reduction, but not very

good for the environment. A long time ago they began to be replaced by gear oils with a phosphorous

additive (in itself a decent anti-wear additive) with active sulfur to grip hold of the gears and create a

very solid sacrificial layer of material that could be worn off, thereby protecting the gear surface.

Eventually it was discovered that the active sulfur was causing corrosion of brass and other soft metals

used in differentials and transmissions.Somewhere around 25 years ago a deactivated or buffered sulfur was developed that would react with

the phosphorous to create the protective/sacrificial layer in the conditions created in the gear boxes

(temperature and pressure) without being corrosive to the brass, copper, etc. This additive system is

used in most gear oils today.

The problems arise when we try or need to use the same product in the transmission that we use in the

differential. Many people have called oil companies and been told by the “Techs” that answer their

questions that their oils have buffered sulfur and therefore are not corrosive to yellow metals, so their GL-5 oils can be used with brass components. While that answer is totally correct, it does not address

the question asked: Can I use your GL-5 in my synchromesh transmission?

Let’s take a look at the API GL-5 rating. It is a rating for EP (Extreme Pressure) protection. The higher

the EP protection, the higher the GL category. In the mid 60's, Ford needed better protection in their

pickup trucks and GM developed the front wheel drive Oldsmobile Toronado that had a differential

with a very high angle of contact for power transmission to the wheels so a higher category was

developed (later to be called GL-6) to offer the protection needed. This level of protection can still be

claimed, but can no longer be tested since the Toronado rig used to test it is no longer available. (Note:

The 1966 and 1967 Toronados had sun gears between the axle shafts instead of spyder gears and a very

high offset, while suffering from the high temperatures of the engine compartment and very high

pressures.) This is why you will frequently see GL-6 listed as “obsolete”. The test is obsolete, not the

car or its needs. Many other high performance cars continue to spec this level of EP performance.

In normal operation, the sulfur/phosphorous additive forms a black sacrificial coating on the gears and

anything it touches with a little pressure and temperature. As the gears turn, instead of wearing, the

sacrificial coating of additives is peeled off or worn off. This is normal and acceptable in all steel gears.

But when one or more of the surfaces is brass or another soft metal, the sacrificial coating is stronger

than the base metal, and instead of just peeling off, it takes with it a few microns of brass that it is

bound to.A traditional GL-4 gear oil of any given viscosity has about ½ of the level of sulfur/phosphorous

additive that would be in the GL-5 product, so the bond is not as strong, and therefore can be peeled off without peeling a layer of brass (or less brass). This means that the GL-4 product provides a little less

extreme pressure protection, so in the differential of a high-powered car, it would not be the ideal

product in the differential. To understand this need we should be aware of the fact that the differential is

where the final torque is applied to the wheels (in most applications).

But in the transmission, we should consider two factors:

• Due to the fact that the differential applies the final torque, normally we do not need the full EP

protection in the transmission where less torque (about 30%) is applied.

We need to be able to break the EP protection to stop the spinning of the gears long enough to

mesh them or synchronize them.

When we use a GL-5 product in a transmission that requires GL-4, we normally find 2 to 4 times as

much copper in the used oil as we would with a GL-4 product (with used oil analysis). Eventually the

synchronizers wear to the point that they no longer make contact with the other half of the cone,

bottoming out before stopping the opposing gear.

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Golf7RR

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NE
I stumbled upon it through Amazon. I did some further searching and its a very popular oil in Europe, produced in Germany. It meets a lot of manufacture specific PN's including a list of VW ones. They do also make MTF3 which is a 75W oil only. However, I only found on there Dutch website that it meets the MK7 GTI spec for the MTF3, the USA website did not list and it did not specify GL-4. The MTF2 is a 75W80 GL-4 specific fluid, it meets a lot of VW spec, but it does not list the MK7 PN directly. However, since it is 75W80 GL-4 full synthetic, i decided to try it and plus it's on prime.

I have read that factory VW stuff is 6.6cst and Ravenol is around 7.7cst I believe, so slightly thicker than factory but pretty close.

Interesting. I've been running motul but I think ill switch. The motul has been kind of notchy.


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hey guys, wondering how the ravenol has been for you guys. i was also thinking of switching to get some of the SMF chatter down when i go SMF. did you use it cold weather? notchiness still there? thanks for any feedback.
 

ATR

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Baltimore
Car(s)
'17 Golf R 6mt
hey guys, wondering how the ravenol has been for you guys. i was also thinking of switching to get some of the SMF chatter down when i go SMF. did you use it cold weather? notchiness still there? thanks for any feedback.

I was just about to ask the same thing here :cool:
 

JWTS

Ready to race!
Location
WA
I was just about to ask the same thing here :cool:

I haven't used the Ravenol, but I do have about 2 years on Pentosin MTF2. It is very similar to the Ravenol, a GL-4 fluid with a cst of 7.7. The rest of the specs are pretty similar to the Ravenol as well. Overall, it seems to be an improvement in shift feel over the OEM fluid, and way better the Motul 300, which was terrible for me under 40 degrees F.
 

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
I haven't used the Ravenol, but I do have about 2 years on Pentosin MTF2. It is very similar to the Ravenol, a GL-4 fluid with a cst of 7.7. The rest of the specs are pretty similar to the Ravenol as well. Overall, it seems to be an improvement in shift feel over the OEM fluid, and way better the Motul 300, which was terrible for me under 40 degrees F.

but what about over 60F? How did it compare to Motul?
 

JerseyDrew77

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia & NC
Car(s)
2016 TR GTI S 6MT
I use Motul 300 and it's butter smooth. In the cold mornings when I first start my car up and start driving, it's a little notchy but so was my OEM fluid and it's no where near as bad as what everybody is saying on here.
 
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