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JB1 6MT Clutch Update "Poll"

0

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Caused by the clutch though? I think I've seen 3-4 on the forums, but all on stock clutches
 
Hammersticks

Hammersticks

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
'16 GTI, '18 e-Golf
0bLiViOuS said:
6 hours is what I think a lot of aftermarket shops are charging and is IMO pretty fair. 2-3 hours I doubt.. that would be one hell of a speed run!
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Also got quoted 6 hrs / $750 from the local indy shop I've been going to for years. Looks like one hell of a job that I want no part of! $750 is a tough pill to swallow but at least if anything went wrong they would make it right. Would suck to install the clutch disc backwards on your own.


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AERO

AERO

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SE of Denver
Anyone have thoughts on a lower boost/ output map 6 tune to preserve clutch life? I've got a brand new, still stock car and don't much feel like having to deal with clutch issues. I'm thinking of doing a map6 custom tune with roughly half to 2/3rds of the typical over boost.

Has anyone done that from the get go, instead of waiting until it starts slipping and then dialing back the boost?
 
0

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Ya a lot of people did that on the JB1. I'd take the map 1 settings and dial them back on the low end if you're worried. Like ramp up from 1500rpm in .5 increments and 5000rpm and up stick to 4psi accross the board if you want to play it safe. It'll probably be a pretty flat power band that keeps pulling :)
 
AERO

AERO

Go Kart Newbie
Location
SE of Denver
0bLiViOuS said:
Ya a lot of people did that on the JB1. I'd take the map 1 settings and dial them back on the low end if you're worried. Like ramp up from 1500rpm in .5 increments and 5000rpm and up stick to 4psi accross the board if you want to play it safe. It'll probably be a pretty flat power band that keeps pulling :)
Click to expand...

I think this is what I'm going to do. I'm willing to sacrifice some gains to preserve the clutch life. Heck, maybe run no additional boost until 3500rpm and then slowly ramp up to +4 psi up top. The dyno graph on the burger motorsports website shows a pretty big spike in TQ from 2500 to 3500pm. Maybe dialing it back there would help the clutch hold on.
 
R

russiankid

Drag Race Newbie
Location
PA
Started to slip at 10,500 on stock tune with DP and I have a 2/16 build date. Now have an SRE clutch, no issues.
 
J

jrm

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Sweden
Seat Leon Cupra manual (same engine as the Golf Mk7 R) build date 4/11 -14 model 15, 31000 km Jb1/Jb4. Lots of events on airfields 50-240+ no issues yet.
 
S

Scrodee

Ready to race!
Location
CSRA
'17 GTI with the differential; Boomba short shift adapter and knob, snow guard removed, bleeder delay orifice renoved, clutch return assist spring removed.
I've been pretty good at avoiding boost and aggressive throttle in 5th and 6th but I have been pretty aggressive in 2nd on occasion.

Put JB4 on at 5k miles, map 1 (only ever did two pulls on map 2 for logs). Did some logging and occasionally some aggressive driving but largely pretty tame most of the time, just commuting. Put about 1500 miles on it with no issues.

Installed Cobb AP map 1+ Friday. Did about a dozen pulls for logs Saturday and Sunday. Started slipping this morning (45 degrees out) just a touch in 2nd but pretty severely around 3k rpm (peak tq) in 3rd and 4th under moderate throttle. No full pedal or anything just 1/2 to 3/4.
After that I decided to see how easy it would be to get slip in 5th, didn't take much. Left 6th alone.

I'd already set aside money for a clutch but I was hoping to get more miles out if the stocker. Oh well. :-/

I'm sticking a DP and intercooler on this week, looks like I'll add a clutch as well.


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