IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)

[toledospeed]

Yea, now that we've seen twice that the IS38 is different I'll add something about it to the instructions.

It's not that the IS38 adjustment is different per se, it is just that folks aren't interpreting and following the APR video instructions properly. Per the video (and in the instructions in the video description) they are expecting you to use VCDS to dial in the final adjustment. The initial adjustment in the video is just that, a starting point that gets you close. Many expect this to be exact, but it isn't unless you get lucky. What is important to note is that you should be doing the final adjustment before you put the downpipe back on. Otherwise, this puts you into a tighter situation like the guys found themselves in.

George also alludes to this in the link I posted above:
"A lot of people that have done the APR adaption have had issues, most likely due to not getting it right or there is something out with it."
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=507387&postcount=23

APR Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sne8-9svmN0

Video Description:
1 – Unbox the turbo.
2 – Loosen the jam nut on the actuator rod.
3 – Turn the rod until the wastegate door is loose. When it’s loose, it will wiggle freely.
4 – Slowly turn the rod to tighten the wastegate until the moment it makes contact with the turbine housing. When this happens, the wastegate will no longer wiggle freely. Don’t tighten it further.
5 – Using a marker, draw a line on the actuator rod.
6 – Using the line a reference, turn the rod one and a half times, tightening the wastegate.
7 – Tighten the jam nut.
8 – Install the turbo and plug in the wastegate.
9 – Leave the turbo accessible if further adjustment is needed below.
(in the video is says leave the exhaust disconnected)
10 – Flash the ECU with APR’s IS38 ECU Upgrade.
11 – Plug a VCDS (Vag-Com) cable into the OBDII port.
12 – Turn on the ignition, but don’t start the engine.
13 – Open the VCDS Program.
14 – Click “select” under “Select Control Module.”
15 – Click “01-Engine.”
16 – Click “Basic Settings – 04.”
17 – Select “First adaptation of charge pressure actuator” from the drop down menu.
18 – Click “Go.”
19 – The test will run shortly but for no more than 10 seconds, and the wastegate will make a high pitched noise.
20 – If the test was not successful, and listed a failure or abortion of the test, attempt loosening the rod 0.1 turns and try the test again.
21 – VCDS will say “Finished correctly” if the test was successful.
22 – Continue installing the turbocharger system, and enjoy the APR ECU Upgrade!

 

[MeltedSolid]

Yea, that is an important step, but as Gawernator and Twindad found the IS20's wastegate does like to be a lot looser than the IS38. If I remember correctly Gawernator had to loosen his wastegate over 2 full turns after following those instructions.

 

[TwinDad]

The actuator on the IS38 stays fully closed when not plugged in. The IS20 actuator relaxes and lets the wastegate open a bit. If you follow the apr process, you will be way too tight. I pushed mine in all the way and held it there. I then tightened the rod until my door was just closed. Everything is working fine, but I think it can be a little bit tighter. My spool up seems to match everyone else though and even better than some. Hitting over 20 psi by 3,100 when I started my log at 2,100. I’m just trying to see if I can improve it even more. That and I thought I was hearing a slight rattle the other day. It was with windows down and driving stop and go alongside parked cars. Can’t hear it any other time though. I’m just going to make sure there is no free play once it’s powered on. I just took the cautious route since I saw what happened when it was too tight

 

[toledospeed]

Yea, that is an important step, but as Gawernator and Twindad found the IS20's wastegate does like to be a lot looser than the IS38. If I remember correctly Gawernator had to loosen his wastegate over 2 full turns after following those instructions.

Yeah, maybe so, but the proper procedure should still be to follow ALL of the above steps as APR has posted. If you do, you can't go wrong. Just guessing at the looseness or number of turns is not guaranteed to get your turbo installed properly in one shot. The key to a successful install is to pass the “First adaptation of charge pressure actuator” test using VCDS. The 1/10 turn final adjustment will allow you to pass the test with the tightest possible initial position of the wastegate. What these guys are reporting for the IS20 is likely correct, it just means you will have loosen it further before the adaptation test passes. However, it doesn't mean you shouldn't follow ALL the steps...that is all I am saying. If Gawernator would have had his VCDS in hand when he needed it, and had followed the steps, it would have saved him some grief.

The actuator on the IS38 stays fully closed when not plugged in. The IS20 actuator relaxes and lets the wastegate open a bit. If you follow the apr process, you will be way too tight. I pushed mine in all the way and held it there. I then tightened the rod until my door was just closed. Everything is working fine, but I think it can be a little bit tighter. My spool up seems to match everyone else though and even better than some. Hitting over 20 psi by 3,100 when I started my log at 2,100. I’m just trying to see if I can improve it even more. That and I thought I was hearing a slight rattle the other day. It was with windows down and driving stop and go alongside parked cars. Can’t hear it any other time though. I’m just going to make sure there is no free play once it’s powered on. I just took the cautious route since I saw what happened when it was too tight

Not disagreeing with your analysis vs the IS38, but if you would have followed all the APR steps, including the VCDS final adjustment step, this would have given you a perfect adjustment before the DP went back on. My guess is this is why you have that slight rattle. You probably are correct, it is still a bit loose, but not enough to trigger the CEL.

 

[Gawernator]

Yeah, maybe so, but the proper procedure should still be to follow ALL of the above steps as APR has posted. If you do, you can't go wrong. Just guessing at the looseness or number of turns is not guaranteed to get your turbo installed properly in one shot. The key to a successful install is to pass the “First adaptation of charge pressure actuator” test using VCDS. The 1/10 turn final adjustment will allow you to pass the test with the tightest possible initial position of the wastegate. What these guys are reporting for the IS20 is likely correct, it just means you will have loosen it further before the adaptation test passes. However, it doesn't mean you shouldn't follow ALL the steps...that is all I am saying. If Gawernator would have had his VCDS in hand when he needed it, and had followed the steps, it would have saved him some grief.



Not disagreeing with your analysis vs the IS38, but if you would have followed all the APR steps, including the VCDS final adjustment step, this would have given you a perfect adjustment before the DP went back on. My guess is this is why you have that slight rattle. You probably are correct, it is still a bit loose, but not enough to trigger the CEL.

It was 2 to 2.5 full turns, the APR instructions are way way off for IS20. And using VCDS is exactly what I did...

 

[TwinDad]

I just went and tightened it up till there was no movement or play at all, then went just a little but more. Car starts and runs fine. I don’t have VCDS, so I was trying to avoid having to do th adaptation. Just a few short pulls and I was hitting 24.6 psi. I’ll do some logs later and see how it looks

 

[toledospeed]

It was 2 to 2.5 full turns, the APR instructions are way way off for IS20. And using VCDS is exactly what I did...

I just went and tightened it up till there was no movement or play at all, then went just a little but more. Car starts and runs fine. I don’t have VCDS, so I was trying to avoid having to do th adaptation. Just a few short pulls and I was hitting 24.6 psi. I’ll do some logs later and see how it looks

Hi Guys, my aim here is really just to help offer the OP advice to what I think the exact steps should state if it is going to be useful and accurate. There is a protocol that will work every time, and using VCDS is the proper way to complete the adjustment before the DP is put back on. If you do the initial adjustment and it is too loose, then APR's instructions to loosen by 1/10th turn no longer work because you may actually need to tighten instead (hence my advice above). IMHO, they are doing this intentionally so you are always loosening up to the point to where the VCDS test passes. Sure, you may have to go 1/10 turn or up to 2.5 full turns before the test passes. But if you do it 1/10 turn at at time as they say, you will have the wastegate as tight as it can be for the initial adjustment. It's like playing outfield in baseball...you can't guess exactly how far forward to stand, so it is best to start out playing back further since it is easier to move forward to make the play instead of risking get burned over the top.

Again, not saying you guys aren't correct on your observations or that your shit isn't working properly! This advice will still be helpful for those without VCDS or those that don't follow the instructions to a "T" initially.

 

[Gawernator]

Hi Guys, my aim here is really just to help offer the OP advice to what I think the exact steps should state if it is going to be useful and accurate. There is a protocol that will work every time, and using VCDS is the proper way to complete the adjustment before the DP is put back on. If you do the initial adjustment and it is too loose, then APR's instructions to loosen by 1/10th turn no longer work because you may actually need to tighten instead (hence my advice above). IMHO, they are doing this intentionally so you are always loosening up to the point to where the VCDS test passes. Sure, you may have to go 1/10 turn or up to 2.5 full turns before the test passes. But if you do it 1/10 turn at at time as they say, you will have the wastegate as tight as it can be for the initial adjustment. It's like playing outfield in baseball...you can't guess exactly how far forward to stand, so it is best to start out playing back further since it is easier to move forward to make the play instead of risking get burned over the top.



Again, not saying you guys aren't correct on your observations or that your shit isn't working properly! This advice will still be helpful for those without VCDS or those that don't follow the instructions to a "T" initially.

I like the little league baseball advice, brings me back [emoji23][emoji23]


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[Diggs24]

I sucked at OF, so they stuck me at catcher. So basically I shouldn't swap turbos. Got it.

 

[Gawernator]

Catcher is harder than outfield I think. Pretty much all you need for OF is a really good arm, though catchers are supposed to be able to laser beam it to 2nd base as well


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[MeltedSolid]

As a kid catcher is painful too. I was thwacked in the toes more than a few times.

Toledo, the main reason I am willing to state that the directions are different is because I don't trust APR as an end-all be-all. If it was VW giving us these instructions specifically about the IS20 it would be different. I hope OBDEleven eventually updates to the point where this kind of test is possible, because I really don't think anyone should be doing it without VCDS.

 

[Gawernator]

I’m not even sure what the adaptation command really does. There’s a separate test function I didn’t use. But guaranteed if you follow APR’s video you’re just gonna sit there loosening it up quite a bit


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[TwinDad]

So here is an early log. Based on previous experience my trims should improve. It usually takes a good day to adjust when I add boost. I had two right before this that looked worse. The second one was started at a little lower rpm and I hit 24.4 psi. This one peaks at 24. Seams to take a little bit to spool up, but once above 3,500 it pulls really hard.
https://datazap.me/u/jcranwell/is20-fol-80-25target?log=0&data=1-2-3-4-5-6-11-18-25-26&solo=6

 

[toledospeed]

I sucked at OF, so they stuck me at catcher. So basically I shouldn't swap turbos. Got it.

Catcher is harder than outfield I think. Pretty much all you need for OF is a really good arm, though catchers are supposed to be able to laser beam it to 2nd base as well

[*]As a kid catcher is painful too. I was thwacked in the toes more than a few times.

LOL. I really suck at baseball, I'm a soccer/basketball/track guy by trade, but I still like to use that analogy once in a while. I did play some right field in LL though. The fields were so small in 6th grade, I could sometimes still throw to first and get the guy out...if he was slow...haha! Also, played some catcher in a softball league...that is a seriously important position that I was not worthy off!

I’m not even sure what the adaptation command really does. There’s a separate test function I didn’t use. But guaranteed if you follow APR’s video you’re just gonna sit there loosening it up quite a bit

I explained that in your EPC/Limp Mode thread:
http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showpost.php?p=514198&postcount=31

Toledo, the main reason I am willing to state that the directions are different is because I don't trust APR as an end-all be-all. If it was VW giving us these instructions specifically about the IS20 it would be different. I hope OBDEleven eventually updates to the point where this kind of test is possible, because I really don't think anyone should be doing it without VCDS.

Maybe I am just misunderstanding you and we are on the same page, not sure. Let's see. I am simply saying let's not throw the baby out with the bathwater. The A to Z directions provided by APR are not different or incomplete when installing the IS12, IS20, or IS38. They are perfect. The only way I could help Gawernator with his post-install issue in the other thread was because I studied the APR instructions carefully when I did my install. I'm sure these came from VW/Audi and they were incorporated by APR to help folks out.

If it were up to me, to be clear in the installation instructions, I would state the following: "The initial starting point of the wastegate adjustment rod in the APR video is known not to be be exact. You need VCDS to confirm the final adjustment for the wastegate and tweaks will need to be made. For the IS20, during the final adjustment process using VCDS, you may need to loosen the adjusment up 2 to 2.5 turns before the adaptation test passes. It is still recommended that you only do a very small adjustment at at time, just be patient. If possible, have the VCDS Windows laptop or tablet as close to the turbo as you can while you make the adjustment."

Since none of us have discussing this have done IS38 installs or adjustments (that I know of), I think there are assumptions being made that the APR video and their initial adjustment is perfect for the IS38. It may be closer for the IS38 than the IS20, but then again, it might not be. After Georges comment and my explanation above, the initial starting point is very likely short of where you need to be on purpose, hence my outfield analogy Sorry for all the posts, I am really just trying to help

 

[TwinDad]

Your help has been great. The only reason I say it’s different is because the IS20 and IS12 use a different actuator from the IS38. From a lot of research and an older post elsewhere made by George. The IS38 actuator keeps the wastegate fully closed when not plugged in. The actuator on the IS20/IS12 relaxes and lets the door open a little bit. If you adjust the rod per APR when it’s relaxed, it will be too tight. Most likely by 2-1/2 turns or so. If you manually push the actuator in and hold it, you can probably use the APR method. Regardless of that, the VCDS adaptation process is correct