I didn't see any bad reviews on the UK forums, tuner I hired likes them. Their smaller hybrids aren't really worth the money imo but the way the FCP warranty works now, I'd have to blow up several of these to make buying an FCP IS38 worth it.
7
Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R
- Thread starter scrllock
- Start date
Scooped an Autopower race roll bar from a VW dude down in Ohio. Story is the original owner bought it for a '17 R, so should fit a non-sunroof car. I think he was parting it out after the owner gave up on after blowing a motor.
I've been itching to use my bucket seats but definitely not with factory 3 points. It didn't look like you can safely convert quickfits to use with a bar so we just traded. I'll have to weigh it but I think I'll break even or even drop a few pounds after swapping for the Sparcos?
Drilling out the chassis for the proper backing plates makes me nervous but I'd rather be safer in a crash, not like track insurance devalues the car for having safety equipment.
Got that bad boy in there. I think we could probably do it again way faster, but that oil return line on the block is a pain in the dick. Had my most mechanically inclined friend with small hands take care of that. Still gotta re-attach the coolant lines, drain/fill the oil, etc but it's real close.
Definitely recommend a wastegate harness extension. Calibrating it was a breeze with the turbo on the bench plugged into the ECU.
Threw the 034 TMD on, so I can do some more Mk8 PCV testing for DerHase.
Also got super lucky and a Schroth 6-point harness popped up, so I have everything but the sub strap hardware ready to go. Likely a shop project since I'd rather have a pro drilling holes in my car and installing safety harnesses.
19birel
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pittsburgh
- Car(s)
- MK7.5 - MK4 - B8.5
Also mid turbo install myself and that damn oil return is making me hate life too haha. I've been trying to go at it from the turbo side instead
He was wiggling the line into place from the turbo side and managed to hand-thread the bolt from the battery side once it lined up just right. I was under the car guiding him since it's pretty blind.
Acadia18
Autocross Champion
- Location
- The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
- Car(s)
- 2019 Golf R
Would it be easier if that downpipe was removed?
a little bit. I would absolutely remove the downpipe if it's stock, you get a lot more room with an aftermarket one.
100% was the old turbo:
https://youtube.com/shorts/A690xYoFIDI
I don't know that this would have contributed to failure, but I did notice the oil feed line adapter from my GT2260s somehow made it onto this IS38, which is pretty funny since that means it was probably on the last IS38 too. I assume the other two adapters that disappeared were on my ball bearing IS38, which is long gone.
The annoying part is I have to buy the normal length stud now, and I'm not 100% sure I have the stock turbo end of the oil return line. When I sold the GT2260s, I sent the guy the line that I had, but after seeing that adapter, I'm not sure the shop put the stock end back in or not. I *really* do not want to pull the line off to re-do it, but I did order another one just in case. It seems to fit just fine, so I dunno.
Oh well, almost done. Changed the oil, got most of the other stuff re-connected. Just waiting on a few parts like that feed line bolt before I can fire it up and do another engine flush.
https://youtube.com/shorts/A690xYoFIDI
I don't know that this would have contributed to failure, but I did notice the oil feed line adapter from my GT2260s somehow made it onto this IS38, which is pretty funny since that means it was probably on the last IS38 too. I assume the other two adapters that disappeared were on my ball bearing IS38, which is long gone.
The annoying part is I have to buy the normal length stud now, and I'm not 100% sure I have the stock turbo end of the oil return line. When I sold the GT2260s, I sent the guy the line that I had, but after seeing that adapter, I'm not sure the shop put the stock end back in or not. I *really* do not want to pull the line off to re-do it, but I did order another one just in case. It seems to fit just fine, so I dunno.
Oh well, almost done. Changed the oil, got most of the other stuff re-connected. Just waiting on a few parts like that feed line bolt before I can fire it up and do another engine flush.
i can see your billet coolant adapter. And the original one too.
Drove about an hour to go pick up the oil feed stud, didn't feel like waiting til Monday. I have an extra T30, the longer hex head for the Garrett feed adapter, and a 5mm for the heat shield that I forgot and really didn't feel like fixing. The t30 is a mystery, but all of my coolant hardline screws are accounted for
Yep, I think I lost the last one on my old motor.
Took it out and my mid-boost maps aren't too far off. Air is a lot colder now and I have a bit more restrictive intake, so it'll need re-dialing. No over/underboost codes though, wastegate seems to be behaving.
https://www.tcoff.co/product-page/tcoff-motorsports-tc-xr-forged-wheels
Local shop I've been using for most of my big jobs is selling custom forged wheels. Offered me a discount but even at msrp, $1950 for a set of forged 18x9 is quite good. I've seen them in person, look great. I like the ORT wheel look, but price wins I think. Plus lifetime warranty.
They've been branching out more into parts, sold me a set of pads at cost I'm going to try out once the roads clear.
Local shop I've been using for most of my big jobs is selling custom forged wheels. Offered me a discount but even at msrp, $1950 for a set of forged 18x9 is quite good. I've seen them in person, look great. I like the ORT wheel look, but price wins I think. Plus lifetime warranty.
They've been branching out more into parts, sold me a set of pads at cost I'm going to try out once the roads clear.
Finally over 40F which is comfortable enough for brake work. These are Brembo 1K0615301M aka Mk6 R 345x30mm rotors. Blank one-piece discs, but pillar-vaned at least. Testing new pads for TCOFF and supposed to see if bedding these in with street pads then swapping to track pads in a few months works well enough.
Interestingly motorsport hardware updated their install doc to suggest 105 ft-lbs for all m14 studs, vs the old 85/90 ft-lbs recommendation.
And FCP apparently no longer stocks these, so that's kinda shitty. Seems like they stopped stocking brembo OR centric high carbons in either of the fitments I last purchased, so much for lifetime replacement.
Calipers are off to get rebuilt with stock pistons. The vented ones are nice but eat up pad clearance, I'm interested to see how a 2-3mm thicker pad does vs. 2mm thicker 2 piece rotors and vented pistons.