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Got a bad turbo? Let's track the issue...

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
My is38 works great, Dailey driven on 27psi and I drive my car hard it's a rev t and has around 8-10k miles on it

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk

I think it's a question of putting your mind at ease and getting a more reliable option. The IS38 and IS20 are prone to the same failures.

If you're going to upgrade, might as well get the most reliable option while making good power (IMO)
 

ashiun

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto, Ontario
I've got such a good deal though... and I'm hoping my sea-level altitude and cool temps will prevent a blowout if I do get IS38...
 

Ramon64124

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Kansas
Cobb 5150 tuned. IS38 Shaft snapped. Previosly balanced by Gpop Shop. No real signs of stress. Doing a 3rd gear pull at 28 psi. It was probably 100 degrees outside. I was FBO with E30 and Meth.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa
Cobb 5150 tuned. IS38 Shaft snapped. Previosly balanced by Gpop Shop. No real signs of stress. Doing a 3rd gear pull at 28 psi. It was probably 100 degrees outside. I was FBO with E30 and Meth.


Wow no way! Sorry to hear

What are your future plans?
Check out the guide I made with the help of other to assess the damage (you obviously probably already know most steps)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Ramon64124

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Kansas
Wow no way! Sorry to hear

What are your future plans?
Check out the guide I made with the help of other to assess the damage (you obviously probably already know most steps)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whats the link?

I've invested in a Tomioka IHX475. Should be here this week.
 

marc5800

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Ottawa

Saschke

New member
Location
Belgium
Car(s)
2015 MK7 R
Hello guys


Sascha from belgium,new here, just read the whole thread because I'm driving a MK7 R from 11/2015 with the 722H turbo. The dyno read 295 HP and 396 NM, so it's healthy (also no turbine play). I'm at 36k km's and change the oil every 10k km's. Thinking of tuning it stage 1 (flash tune) but i'm in doubt. A lot of people say that, with allready 36k km's on the clock, it is less likely to fail.


What do you guys think?


A big thanks in advance for the input.
 

Saschke

New member
Location
Belgium
Car(s)
2015 MK7 R
If you're thinking stage 1 tuning, maybe try a JB4 and keep your factory warranty?


My warranty is untill march 2019. Not a big fan of JB4, at our shop, we do a custom tune so i can limit the torque for the DQ250. But honestly, i'm thinking of keeping it stock, just some hardware changes like the Eventuri intake and GFB DV. But do you guys think that a turbo with that mileage would still fail?
 
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Twist1

Autocross Newbie
Think I just found a pattern with blown turbos. It regards the grind marks, found on the wheel nut (from balancing at the factory) turbos that blow are more likely to have 2 or more grinding angles or one very deep one. This indicates improper shaft specs and install. Call me crazy but so far my theory has not been proven wrong.
 

Diggs24

Autocross Champion
Location
de plains! de plains!
Car(s)
2015 GTI
Think I just found a pattern with blown turbos. It regards the grind marks, found on the wheel nut (from balancing at the factory) turbos that blow are more likely to have 2 or more grinding angles or one very deep one. This indicates improper shaft specs and install. Call me crazy but so far my theory has not been proven wrong.

pics to show what youre talking about?
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
pics to show what youre talking about?

I'm assuming most here understand the basic principles of turbo shaft and wheel alignment. Just like a car wheel has to be balanced correctly, otherwise there will be an off axis wobble when it spins up. With a turbo, to balance the wheel, it is spun very quickly and a computer determines where it is off centered at when it spins. Then either an employee or machine takes material off of the wheel or shaft nut to balance that out.

IHI turbos are put together in mass. When they are aligned, a computer reads the off centered rotation and a robotic arm grinds the material until the comp says it is spinning within tolerance/spec.

If a turbo nut has multiple grind marks (they have to have atleast one) it indicates the shaft was more on the extreme side of balancing before it was shaved. All the blown turbos I've seen, have multiple oem angle grind marks from the factory. This is the only pattern I've been able to find. As I've been trying to find a failure cause for over one year. The car has seen 3 different turbos now. All have 1 , shallow angle grind and all have been rock solid. 5 have blown in SI, all had two very deep grinds to force a balance. In theory it should not influence it, but all blown turbos I've seen have two grinds or one very deep one....
 

Twist1

Autocross Newbie
For example:

On top is a turbo that has been very reliable. Side to side shaft play minimal, 27+ psi is38. One angle grind was needed to align the shaft. (It looks like a chip on the nut)

Here is a turbo that blew is20. You can see how the factory needed multiple grinding adjustments to properly align this shaft. Looks like multiple chips around the nut.

https://goo.gl/images/Ax5Ewq
 

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vw671

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Diego
For example:

On top is a turbo that has been very reliable. Side to side shaft play minimal, 27+ psi is38. One angle grind was needed to align the shaft. (It looks like a chip on the nut)

Here is a turbo that blew is20. You can see how the factory needed multiple grinding adjustments to properly align this shaft. Looks like multiple chips around the nut.

https://goo.gl/images/Ax5Ewq


Grind marks has nothing to do with shaft alignment. If the shaft was out of alignment the compressor wheel would touch the housing. The grind marks are purely to balance the shaft and wheel assembly as a unit.
 
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